Honda ATV Forum banner

121 - 140 of 171 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,956 Posts
Yours probably isn't working at all because the harness connectors never been prepped with dielectric grease? The pressure washing changing symptoms tips us off to that... They generally try to work if its just bad grease on the reduction gears. I'll find your other thread in a bit... been busy and probably missed it. Sorry about that!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Yeah I’m thinking it’s a wire/wire harness (not sure what you’d call it lol) it makes sense, because after washing the quad it started shifting, I must’ve washed some sort of connector which made it work temporarily so i’ll tr and locate that connector and clean it if possible. I currently don’t have the resources to put dielectric grease on everything and grease on the gears, so that’ll have to wait. Looking for a temporary fix while because i might be attending a quad rally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Yep ended up being a dirty connector for anyone wondering haha. Oh well my shift motor had some water in it anyways so good thing I checked it out. Thanks for the help everyone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I posted this on another thread but it may be valuable here as the topic is generally the same re: ES issues. The 07Rancher was needing attn. I had no clicking at all when attempting to shift so I was stuck in gear. The atv would start with hand brake on, also I could manually shift with the under seat shifter tool. This is what I did to fix my problem. I had the code 22 flash (two longs and two shorts) went to the service manual (pgs 23-19 and 23-20) to check for code 22 options and did try the angle sensor first but it wasn't that (new one didn't come with O ring), then checked the control motor which is suggested on pg 23-20 at the top. So I took off the shift control motor (3 bolts) and clean it out. That was my problem. After it was out I removed the top off the unit by undoing the two allen bolts. I saw some ugliness in there that cleaned up gently with a rag and toothbrush. There was housing corrosion and breaching of water/mud into the unit which I guess caused the no shift failure. Interestingly enough after I cleaned it up and ran a 12v test it went ok and spun quite nicely. Put it back on the bike out of curiousity and presto it cycled through the gears just fine and back to normal. I was glad to see that the teeth on the SCM shaft were not worn down or missing splines. Since I knew what the weak link was I did ordered a new oem SCM and installed it. Wow shifting was so much smoother and quieter once the new unit was in. Hope this information helps anyone with 07 Rancher ES problems with a code 22.
Good luck with your unit.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,618 Posts
hey maple; you could use orange copper permatex, to seal your shifter motor an housing from water.
what does a tube of dielectric grease cost these days anybody? my is running low. 15 yrs old.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Buenas noches.Mi problema con el honda 420 At FA ES es que cuando salgo con el motor medio frio osea cuando salgo a andar coloco 1ra luego 2da y cuando voy a colocar 3ra se salta a la 5ta marcha, a esto lo hace de igual manera en manual como en automatico, despues de andar 2 o 3 km funciona todo bien osea cuando el motor llego a su temperatura optima.Ya limpie la grasa original y coloque grasa de litio, limpie todas las conecciones y coloque grasa dielectrica y sigue haciendo lo mismo.Me pueden decir que puede ser?el cuatri es 2011, bateria original y tiene 6.000 millas.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,350 Posts
Gracias Hermano Pablo
The translator says:

Good night. My problem with the sling 420 At FA ES is that when I go out with the medium cold engine when I go out I place 1st then 2nd and when I go to place 3rd jumps to the 5th gear, to do it in the same way in manual as in automatic, after walking 2 or 3 km everything works fine when the engine reached its optimum temperature. Now clean the original grease and place lithium grease, clean all the connections and place dielectric grease and keep doing the same Can you tell me what it can be? The quad is 2011, original battery and has 6,000 miles
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,350 Posts
Hermano Pablo
eso es muchos años con una batería: primero realizaría una prueba de carga de la batería para ver si se debilita después de muchos años y millas de servicio

I mean to say “that is many years on a battery—i would first perform a load test on the battery to see if it is weakened after the many years and miles of service”
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,956 Posts
Ola Pablo,
The Rancher 420 AT requires a good, strong battery be installed for reliable operation. When the battery becomes old and weak shifting problems like yours may begin to occur. It sounds like you may need a new replacement battery. You can have your old battery load tested to find out for sure before buying new. Please keep us updated and let us know if we can help you.

Welcome to the forums!

https://translate.google.com

Ola pablo
El Rancher 420 AT requiere que se instale una batería buena y fuerte para un funcionamiento confiable. Cuando la batería se vuelve vieja y comienzan a ocurrir problemas de cambio como el suyo. Parece que puede necesitar una nueva batería de reemplazo. Puede verificar su carga de batería anterior para estar seguro antes de comprar una nueva. Por favor, manténganos actualizados y háganos saber si podemos ayudarlo.

¡Bienvenido a los foros!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,350 Posts
Oops! I didn't mean to step on ya Goober. You nailed it I think. :)
no hay problema hermano todo esta bien jajaja:grin
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,618 Posts
ya sure Buenas noches, dont mean; good evening? i seen to many western's, where it was still light out. :smile
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hola!!!voy a medir el estado de carga de la bateria antes de salir, tendria que estar en 12v, es asi?si esta en menos estaria defectuosa y tendria que cambiarla, en unos dias les estare comentando.Gracias!!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,956 Posts
Hi! I'm going to measure the state of charge of the battery before leaving, it would have to be in 12v, is that so? If it is less defective and would have to change it, in a few days I will be commenting. Thanks!!!
Hola pablcuello, una batería en buen estado debe medir 12.6 voltios o más a su voltaje de reposo. Lo que significa que 24 horas después, después de recargar la batería por última vez, debe medir 12.6 voltios o más en un voltímetro. Una batería nueva puede medir entre 12.8 voltios y 13.0 voltios a su voltaje de reposo. Una batería vieja y débil medirá menos de 12.6 voltios a su voltaje de reposo.

Pero la tensión suficiente no es el único factor que determina si una batería está en buenas condiciones o no. Las baterías pierden gradualmente la capacidad actual con el tiempo a medida que se deterioran. Para probar la capacidad de una batería, se debe probar la carga con un dispositivo electrónico. La prueba de carga mide cuánta corriente suministra la batería a una carga pesada.

Como sabe que su batería está vieja, su capacidad puede ser demasiado baja para operar los sistemas eléctricos en su ATV lo suficiente. Aquí en los EE. UU. Hay muchas tiendas de autopartes, y todos los minoristas de baterías cargarán una batería de prueba para un cliente sin cargo. Te recomiendo que lleves tu batería a un minorista y les pidas que prueben la carga antes de comprar una batería nueva. Si no puede encontrar a alguien que esté preparado para cargar su batería de prueba, cámbiela por una nueva del tamaño y tipo adecuado, ya que ya sospecha que está llegando al final de su vida útil.

retro said:
Hi pablcuello, A battery in good condition should measure 12.6 volts or above at its resting voltage. Which means that 24 hours later, after the battery was last recharged, it should measure 12.6 volts or higher on a voltmeter. A new battery might measure between 12.8 volts and 13.0 volts at its resting voltage. An aging and weak battery will measure less than 12.6 volts at its resting voltage.

But sufficient voltage is not the only factor determining whether a battery is in good condition or not. Batteries gradually lose current capacity over time as they decay. To test the capacity of a battery it must be load tested using an electronic device. The load test measures how much current the battery supplies to a heavy load.

Since you know your battery is old its capacity may be too low to operate the electrical systems on your ATV sufficiently. Here in the USA many auto parts stores, and all battery retailers will load test a battery for a customer at no charge. I recommend that you take your battery to a retailer and ask them to load test it before you buy a new battery. If you cannot find someone who is eqipped to load test your battery, replace it with a new one of the proper size and type, since you already suspect that it is nearing the end of its useful life.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Having issues with 02 foreman won't shift
N indicators just blinking can shift with the hand lever however will not move? When in gear number blinking

Check angle sensor shows bad replaced with no luck same problem.. clean out the shift motor and all back to normal will shift through all the gears but won't move when in gear?
After multiple attempts shift up and down now back to original problem N blinking won't shift
Thanks in advance for your help
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,956 Posts
You might have an issue with the change clutch if the bike won't move when its in gear. Try adjusting the clutch per the manual.

ES shift issues generally stem from excessive friction and drag in the mechanical assemblies. Look for any of the five reduction gear support bearings that are installed crooked in their bores and straighten them up if any are noticed. They each must be squarely installed. Clean out the old grease in those bearings using solvent and repack them using synthetic grease under your finger. Coat each of the reduction gears liberally with syn grease too. Take the shift motor apart and wash all of the parts in hot soapy water and rinse the armature well. Then squirt some rubbing alcohol on the armature to mix out any remaining water and blow it completely dry. Reassemble the shift motor using syn grease in each bearing/bushing and on the seal lip. Do not polish or sand on the commutator bars, leave that black coating on them alone. Coat all of the o-rings and gaskets with syn grease, dielectric grease, or silicone o-ring grease as the assemblies are put back together. Do not overtighten the reduction gears cover bolts, that can cause pinching and binding of the gears in the support bearings. Your goal is to reduce friction and drag wherever possible. Clean parts and careful reassembly is required, using synthetic grease on all moving parts.

Check the angle sensor resistance curves using a multimeter before putting it back on. Do not overtighten those two angle sensor bolts.

EDIT:
Begin reading here for more info. The entire ES prep procedure is covered in a few posts:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/builds-projects-diy/117193-creamsicle-orange-2.html#post1151201

Dielectric grease every harness connector on the bike once you're done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Buenas tardes muchachos.Le he colocado la bateria nueva y el problema sigue siendo el mismo, al salir osea iniciar la marcha pongo 1era, luego 2da y al colocar 3ra se pasa a 5ta, en automatico hace la misma falla, mi cuatri es Honda rancher 420 4x4 AT ES , cuando hice 2 o 3 kilometros anda todo normal, yo ya he cambiado la grasa y he limpiado todos las fichas y la falla persiste.
 
121 - 140 of 171 Posts
Top