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Discussion starter · #21 ·
So heres another question.. I have power to both wires on the Ignition coil with the switch on... If I stick my test light in the end of the coil wire that goes to the spark and hit the start button, it should have fire correct?
 
You may destroy you meter -- just use a nail or the sort and see if it jumps to ground -- did you unplug the connectors to the PCM and check them for corrosion?
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Yh i checked all connectors cleaned and re-greased everything. I just put my Test light on the out put side (Spark plug side) of the coil, when i pushed the start button, it has no juice. IDK if thats how its done, but Im at a dead end with this bike. Any Help appreciated, Thanks again with the help that has already been gave.
 
It should have juice.
 
The PCM is located behind the battery has 3 connectors plug into it.
 
You could have a bad coil -- only way to tell is to use a peak voltage adapter with the meter or a meter that will read peak volts. -- the G/Y wire of the coil to ground should have over a 100 Volts on it, when using a meter that will read peak volts to test it. The coil has 12 VDC on it all the time with the key on -- the PCM pulses the G/Y wire (pulls the coil to ground to fire the plug)
 
Well Gals and guys... The New Coil did not do the trick! Whos coming over for the VERY expensive bond fire? Any ideas guys? Thanks for all the help.
Before you burn it down take the time to go back through and check all of the simple things like battery voltage, loose connections, wires plugged in wrong etc. Did you take off the handle bars? Maybe some how the kill switch is malfunctioning? I am wondering about the ecm or whatever functions as the computer for the efi. Did you have a honda dealer plug it into a laptop? I am not sure if that is how honda checks the computer on their machines but Canam does. If you change out a fuse and take your canam to a dealer and they plug it up to their BUDS system it will tell them which fuse you changed. If honda has that system they should be able to tell you what the issue is. I think you mentioned that your honda dealer was not great. I would search online for a better dealer in your area. How far are you from Charlotte, NC? Worst case scenerio I would buy it as a parts quad.
 
When I wasn't getting spark on my FM 420 it was the fuel injection relay. It was clicking, but wasn't making a good enough connection to fire/run.

Melatv suggested I run a jumper wire from + on battery to red/black wire on coil and see if it fired. It did, so from there it was just tracing back till I ended up at the FI relay.

At least all you bought was a new coil. I bought a new PGM-FI module and it didn't change anything
 
Discussion starter · #35 · (Edited)
So with a bad fuel injection relay would the Bike still turn over? My bike turns over fine, just no spark. Yh I knew the Black/red wire goes from Fuel injection relay relay to coil and also from coil to ECM. Still lost on this thing, really dont wanna take it to a dealer when I can do the work myself.

Also, I tried the jumper wire from the + side of battery to the blk/red wire on the coil. The bike is doing the same thing, just turning over and not getting any spark.

Any help here guys? Thanks again.
 
So with a bad fuel injection relay would the Bike still turn over? My bike turns over fine, just no spark. Yh I knew the Black/red wire goes from Fuel injection relay relay to coil and also from coil to ECM. Still lost on this thing, really dont wanna take it to a dealer when I can do the work myself.

Also, I tried the jumper wire from the + side of battery to the blk/red wire on the coil. The bike is doing the same thing, just turning over and not getting any spark.

Any help here guys? Thanks again.
Yep, turned over fine, but wouldn't fire.

Not sure on this one. I hate electrical stuff with a passion.
 
not familiar with this model bike, but when i had this problem, it was a sheared flywheel key.
i figured that out because i took the spark plug out, put the motor on tdc according to the flywheel timing mark, and the piston was not at tdc.
 
You really need a Peak Voltage adapter to test the CKP sensor & the Ign. coil -- I built my own. You can use a toggle switch if you can't find a push button switch, the push button is used to discharged the cap. so you can't get a shock when disconnecting the meter.
 

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