I have an 08 420fm and I replaced both upper and lower using a ballpean hammer and a 6" vise probably used some punchs and maybe some various sizes of pipe for spacers or press assistance. It took me 3 hours to do both sides and replace all four CV boots and all four tie rod ends. And I'm not a shop mechanic however I did break a nail.
All I'm saying is that it is possible , but it might not be recommended, good luck.

 

Never use a ball joint removal tool IF your ball joints are in good shape, it will split the rubber boot.
Always, undo the nut, apply some load to the A Arm in question with a prybar and hit the A Arm on the solid forged area (where the ball joint fits) with a 2 to 3lb hammer, you want a short, sharp blow.
I do all ball joints this way, always have

 

That's a lot better than what I had. A lot better.

 

I made a hash of that explanation really, in simpler terms I meant....

Apply outward pressure with a prybar whilst hitting with a medium sized hammer. The A Arm forged area is the part to hit, one or two short, sharp cracks should see it come loose.

If your not to accurate with a hammer, put the nut on the ball joint threads, just leave enough room for the ball joint to come free.

 

Sam has got ya covered ^^^^

The tapered ball joint studs fit into tapered holes, both in the knuckle (upper ball joint) and the lower A-arm (lower ball joint). Turn the steering all the way right or left to get a good swing at it... Smack the side of the heavy steel where the tapered ball joint studs pass through and they'll pop right apart with ease.

I usually loosen the nuts most of the way off, leaving them threaded onto the ball joint studs only a couple turns, to prevent the knuckles from flopping over when the joints pop loose. You don't need to though.

 

Here is a photo from the manual showing the two nuts and forged areas of the knuckle and lower A-arm where the tapered ball joint studs pass through. Smack each one of those using a dead blow hammer just above the nuts.

 

I bought one of them Harbor Freight ball joint separate tools last year , it looks like a pair of pliers with a threaded screw , it fit in there and I had so much pressure on it that I was waiting for it to snap in two , it didn't work and was a waste of money

I popped the 4 ball joints loose on my 450 day before yesterday , done it like Sam explained , did the bottom one first , a bar between the arm and the knuckle holding some pressure then hit the arm with a hammer , I have put a jack stand or block of wood under the knuckle to make it more solid but you don't always need it , then do the upper arm using a bar with pressure pulling up and hit the knuckle down -----sometimes you get one that is really stuck , most of the time they pop right out

I might get to changing my 450 ball joints this weekend , I have a couple of tools that I made to do the job easier , I am sure I will post some pics in my 450 thread , there are some pics already in my 1995 300 thread of installing the ball joints without doing damage to them or the boots , a vise and the correct size piece of pipe does the job , with my c-clamp tool I don't have to take the arm off the frame

one thing I learned is to clean/polish the bore where the ball joint goes in before you start pushing or pounding it in , I like Dremel with a sanding drum , if you start driving it in and it gets hard you are going to mess it up

 

This ^^^^ pretty much sums up the I did it too. But I removed the arm so I could do all the work standing up ( because I don't have a lift ). I also like to use a little grease to make things slide a little easier.

 

the last page : 483 of this thread link below === shows an easy way to get them out using a hammer

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/builds-projects-diy/123454-2000-trx450fm-build-mods-49.html

 

SamUK, Fish and Retro - Thank you so very much! I did it!! It was not easy because I am sure my "hits" were pretty light, initially. Finally, I took close aim and really hit the proper areas and it worked!
I removed the drive shaft without a problem and prepared to remove the Inboard Joint to place it onto my new drive shaft. The strangest thing happened. When I pulled off the inboard joint the outer case of the bearings was loose and two of the bearings fell out onto my work table. Ouch! The outer case is separated from the inner race and the inner race is seized to the shaft. Also, if you look closely at the attached photos you may be able to see that the splines on the end of the shaft look damaged. What could have cause this??? I am replacing the shaft and knuckle because I have a bad wobble in the front right tire and a loud clicking noise when I turn to the right. I am guessing the click was coming from those loose bearings??
Now I'm at a standstill until I order a new inboard joint with bearings. I'll order the OEM unit unless anyone thinks there is one of better quality.

 

Ahh... I thought you were replacing the entire axle assembly? My eyes are bad so I'm not gonna be much help for ya, but the inner race should drive off from the shaft after removing the retaining clip near the end. Hopefully someone will be along shortly that can see what you need to do with yours...? Congrats on getting it apart easily though!

 

where is the inner joint that goes into the front diff ?. the cup part ?, post a pic of it as well. clicking, means the bearings and cage are worn, normal over time. cost wise ?, replace the inner joint. time wise ?, replace both of the front cv axles is what I would do.

 

and just so you don't freak out !, the inner joint does come all apart !. cup, cage, bearings, retaining clip, all of that end comes apart.

 

Shade - Here's photo of the cup. I don't see any problems or damage. Thank you for telling me it's normal for these things to come apart. I was freaking out! But how do I get those balls back in there???

I am planning to replace both front drive shafts.

 

pretty simple..well..for me to get them back together..lol. first, slide the middle ( smaller ) inner cage on the shaft, then install the cir-clip, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE INNER CAGE FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION !!. then slide the outer cage over the inner cage, dab a good amount of grease into the bearing slots. place one bearing into the slot at a time, with enough grease in there , the bearing will stay. once all the bearings are in the cage, stuff the cup with plenty of grease, slide the cage down into the cup, pack more grease all around the bearing cage, now install the snap ring into the inside rim of the cup, now pull your boot over the cup, install band clamp, done !.

 

and yes..just push the bearing down into the hole, so it snaps inside the cage, this requires you to line up all the slots, grease, snap, grease, snap, grease snap..you got the idea..lol. then put it together as I said ^^^. yessssssssss..the bearing will snap through the outer cage hole, and rest inside.

 

Google Celeb SHADE, once again you came to my rescue. If I am successful getting both front drive shafts reinstalled would this impress you enough that I could have your autograph? I think I'll start a fan club thread.

 

I just got two after market front cv-shafts for my 450 , Sixity is the brand , it was $93 with shipping for both , OEM wanted $175 per axle , that is $325 plus shipping ----I have heard good things about Sixity , but also know , listen to every thing you hear and believe half of it , determining which half is the key

looking at your pic of the spline end of the shaft that goes into the diff , that axle looks in very good condition , like it was fairly new ----the end with the balls doesn't look so good l

 

thats what I put in this '03 trx450fm, '' sixty '' brand axles, but I got them through amazon..lol. 139.98 shipped for both front axles. he did not want to spend over 200 bucks per axle..lol. decided to try these out, and yes..they are made in china..lol. ( its not my trx450fm !..lol ).

 

I was lucky on the $93 , I just searched it and the cheapest Sixity set I can find now is $106 with free shipping , do you know Sixity has two different qualities , the XT and the XTA being a bit better

 

yep, I knew about the two different styles. they both are made in china. ( I do a lot of research when I am shopping ..lol ).

 

The inner bearing race is not coming off the axel. I've tried everything. I've ordered new OEM bearings. I'll put this thread to rest. Thanks to all.

 

You try a wire welder? Weld a bead around the race. It should expand the steel.

Or cut a slot in it with a dremel with a small cutting wheel.

Wait are we talking about a wheel bearing inner race stuck on the end of an axle or a CV bearing inner race?

 

OP needs the inner and outer race parts, to transfer over to the new 1/2 shaft, and can't get the inner race cage off the shaft.

 

I just looked at the pics again with the parts in the cup, cir-clip is in there...hmmm..the end of the shaft splines is buggerd up, keeping the inner race from sliding off. OP, rest the axle in a vice, with the inner race resting on top loosely, hammer the end of the axle shaft to knock the shaft through the inner race, just make sure the inner race is laying flat on top of the vise.

 

I understand what you said about the clicking being related to these bearings. If I had known then what I know now.......... Thank you for that lesson. I looked closely where the bearings ride in the race and there were odd dark marks in 2 of the bearing grooves. Doesn't matter what that means since I now know they need to be replaced. I have not taken the left shaft out yet but I went ahead and ordered bearings for that side, too, based on your advice to replace everything.

After placing my order for the new bearings, I took the shaft to the vice and pounded away. It never budged. I'll take the shaft to my mechanic to see if he has any use for it rather than toss it in the trash. I'm too old to start collecting spare parts.

 

ball joint remover

this is a pict, of a tool i got a long time ago, that didnt damage boots, or threads, removing ball joints on tie-rods.. i think i got it from snap on or mac tools.. .
not the mouse :smile

 

this is a pict, of a tool i got a long time ago, that didnt damage boots, or threads, removing ball joints on tie-rods.. i think i got it from snap on or mac tools.. .
not the mouse :smile

I wondered how I was supposed to use that mouse to get the bearing off. :wink

Funny thing is I thought about a hub puller type tool. Did not know a small version, like you have, was available. Handy tool! I doubt it would work on this snarly inner race because of the damaged splines.

 

ummmm..this is the inner cv joint...right ?. becauseeeeeeeeee...lol..the outer joints do not come apart !!. never met one yet ( inner joint ) that would not just slide apart ?. unless your working on the outer cv joint ?, I have no idea why that inner race won't come off the shaft ???.

Correct, the INNER CV joint. It IS the one that is stuck and the one I was working on.
It will not come off because the splines on the end are damaged. And, it will not come off the other direction (down the axel toward the outer joint) because it's stuck, like it is seized to the axel. Granted, someone stronger might be able to hit it hard enough to get it to move, but I cannot. Give me your address and I'll mail it to you as a early Christmas present. LOL

I do know that the outer joint does not come apart. I'm a girl so I read the manual.

 

ummmm..this is the inner cv joint...right ?. becauseeeeeeeeee...lol..the outer joints do not come apart !!. never met one yet ( inner joint ) that would not just slide apart ?. unless your working on the outer cv joint ?, I have no idea why that inner race won't come off the shaft ???.

Correct, the INNER CV joint. It IS the one that is stuck and the one I was working on.
It will not come off because the splines on the end are damaged. And, it will not come off the other direction (down the axel toward the outer joint) because it's stuck, like it is seized to the axel. Granted, someone stronger might be able to hit it hard enough to get it to move, but I cannot. Give me your address and I'll mail it to you as a early Christmas present. LOL

I do know that the outer joint does not come apart. I'm a girl so I read the manual.

this is one of those times ya need a shop press..lol. as for my address ?, ummmm..no thanks..don't need you showing up, claiming to be my long lost wife ?!..lol.

 

i went back,, an at first it was about ball joints.. towards the middle, it got to ball-bearing-races, for lack of a better term. a lot of bearings have pins, some have balls.
i think i got another puller, similar, that might work. now only to find it..

 

... I am kind of lost on what the problem with the race is ---- seems the inner race of the bearing is frozen onto the spindle on the end of the cv-shaft , when I have a race stuck on a shaft , first choices is a oxy/acc torch and cut a slice into , second choice is a grinder and cut a slice in it , third choice would be to heat up the race expanding it and knock it off with a chisel with the edge grounded flat , be careful hitting on a race as it is hardened and pieces can go flying off like a bullet

 

the shaft splines are buggered up at the end of the shaft, keeping the inner race cage from sliding off. I had the outer end bad on this '03 trx450fm project, I decided to just replace both axles as whole axles, saves time.

 

I am with you on new shafts , that's what I would do

 

yeah, he bought sixty brand name axles from amazon, not a bad price for both axles shipped 139.98, just wish they weren't made in china ?..lol. seems no matter what we buy or where from today ?, its all china !..lol. I read good things about this brand name, we'll see ?..lol. he's not hard on anything..so they should hold up pretty good for what he's going to be doing with this 4wheeler.

 

OP, in the future ?, its best to just replace both axles as full sets, its not worth the time or energy to mess with worn out cv axles. now..if your going to keep this atv for awhile ?, you still can fix the bad axles ( make them work so to speak )..you can have back-ups on hand !. but if your flipping it ?, nah..trash them, install new axles, call It a day .

 

When I ordered the parts, originally, I thought I was buying the full set for both left and right. What I received was:
1. The axle with the outboard boot and bearings already installed and
2. The inboard boot, rings and clips and grease.

I have ordered the bearings so now I will have the full set!

I just got ATV back from my new mechanic 2 weeks ago and he checked it top to bottom because of my fear that it had been sunk by previous owner. Engine is in great shape and it runs great. I have too much money in it not to keep it. LOL

Your long lost wife? Too funny!

 

I haven't ran into this particular problem before with a 4-wheeler but when I have a wheel bearing on a car/truck weld itself a a spindle I heat it with a torch and go after it with a chisel . Not sure if this would work for this issue.