[GirlsRideToo]

In my list of repairs, I am down to the last one of replacing both front CV shafts and right front Knuckle to correct a bad tire wobble. I purchased both CV shafts fully assembled, rather than just the boots, and the knuckle rather than try to replace just the bearing in the knuckle. All are OEM, of course.
I think I heard "The Beast" (my Rancher's name) grown when I explained what I was about to do to him. I do not want to cause him unnecessary pain or break my fingernails removing the ball joints. My question is - will I be able to remove the ball joints without a ball joint remover tool?? The manual does not give any methods other than using the tool. I searched this forum and watched youtube videos and I'm still not sure of the best way to remove the joint without the tool. @SHADE I read one of your post where you said it could take "hours" to remove the shafts and you would not want to do it all the time. This was not reassuring to me.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Honda Rancher 2014 FM1

 

[Jmm 0049]

I have an 08 420fm and I replaced both upper and lower using a ballpean hammer and a 6" vise probably used some punchs and maybe some various sizes of pipe for spacers or press assistance. It took me 3 hours to do both sides and replace all four CV boots and all four tie rod ends. And I'm not a shop mechanic however I did break a nail.
All I'm saying is that it is possible , but it might not be recommended, good luck.

 

[SamUK]

Never use a ball joint removal tool IF your ball joints are in good shape, it will split the rubber boot.
Always, undo the nut, apply some load to the A Arm in question with a prybar and hit the A Arm on the solid forged area (where the ball joint fits) with a 2 to 3lb hammer, you want a short, sharp blow.
I do all ball joints this way, always have

 

[Jmm 0049]

Never use a ball joint removal tool IF your ball joints are in good shape, it will split the rubber boot.
Always, undo the nut, apply some load to the A Arm in question with a prybar and hit the A Arm on the solid forged area (where the ball joint fits) with a 2 to 3lb hammer, you want a short, sharp blow.
I do all ball joints this way, always have

That's a lot better than what I had. A lot better.

 

[SamUK]

I made a hash of that explanation really, in simpler terms I meant....

Apply outward pressure with a prybar whilst hitting with a medium sized hammer. The A Arm forged area is the part to hit, one or two short, sharp cracks should see it come loose.

If your not to accurate with a hammer, put the nut on the ball joint threads, just leave enough room for the ball joint to come free.

 

[retro]

Sam has got ya covered ^^^^

The tapered ball joint studs fit into tapered holes, both in the knuckle (upper ball joint) and the lower A-arm (lower ball joint). Turn the steering all the way right or left to get a good swing at it... Smack the side of the heavy steel where the tapered ball joint studs pass through and they'll pop right apart with ease.

I usually loosen the nuts most of the way off, leaving them threaded onto the ball joint studs only a couple turns, to prevent the knuckles from flopping over when the joints pop loose. You don't need to though.

 

[retro]

Here is a photo from the manual showing the two nuts and forged areas of the knuckle and lower A-arm where the tapered ball joint studs pass through. Smack each one of those using a dead blow hammer just above the nuts.

 

[fishfiles]

I bought one of them Harbor Freight ball joint separate tools last year , it looks like a pair of pliers with a threaded screw , it fit in there and I had so much pressure on it that I was waiting for it to snap in two , it didn't work and was a waste of money

I popped the 4 ball joints loose on my 450 day before yesterday , done it like Sam explained , did the bottom one first , a bar between the arm and the knuckle holding some pressure then hit the arm with a hammer , I have put a jack stand or block of wood under the knuckle to make it more solid but you don't always need it , then do the upper arm using a bar with pressure pulling up and hit the knuckle down -----sometimes you get one that is really stuck , most of the time they pop right out

I might get to changing my 450 ball joints this weekend , I have a couple of tools that I made to do the job easier , I am sure I will post some pics in my 450 thread , there are some pics already in my 1995 300 thread of installing the ball joints without doing damage to them or the boots , a vise and the correct size piece of pipe does the job , with my c-clamp tool I don't have to take the arm off the frame

one thing I learned is to clean/polish the bore where the ball joint goes in before you start pushing or pounding it in , I like Dremel with a sanding drum , if you start driving it in and it gets hard you are going to mess it up

 

[Jmm 0049]

I bought one of them Harbor Freight ball joint separate tools last year , it looks like a pair of pliers with a threaded screw , it fit in there and I had so much pressure on it that I was waiting for it to snap in two , it didn't work and was a waste of money

I popped the 4 ball joints loose on my 450 day before yesterday , done it like Sam explained , did the bottom one first , a bar between the arm and the knuckle holding some pressure then hit the arm with a hammer , I have put a jack stand or block of wood under the knuckle to make it more solid but you don't always need it , then do the upper arm using a bar with pressure pulling up and hit the knuckle down -----sometimes you get one that is really stuck , most of the time they pop right out

I might get to changing my 450 ball joints this weekend , I have a couple of tools that I made to do the job easier , I am sure I will post some pics in my 450 thread , there are some pics already in my 1995 300 thread of installing the ball joints without doing damage to them or the boots , a vise and the correct size piece of pipe does the job , with my c-clamp tool I don't have to take the arm off the frame

one thing I learned is to clean/polish the bore where the ball joint goes in before you start pushing or pounding it in , I like Dremel with a sanding drum , if you start driving it in and it gets hard you are going to mess it up

This ^^^^ pretty much sums up the I did it too. But I removed the arm so I could do all the work standing up ( because I don't have a lift ). I also like to use a little grease to make things slide a little easier.

 

[fishfiles]

the last page : 483 of this thread link below === shows an easy way to get them out using a hammer

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/builds-projects-diy/123454-2000-trx450fm-build-mods-49.html

 

[GirlsRideToo]

SamUK, Fish and Retro - Thank you so very much! I did it!! It was not easy because I am sure my "hits" were pretty light, initially. Finally, I took close aim and really hit the proper areas and it worked!
I removed the drive shaft without a problem and prepared to remove the Inboard Joint to place it onto my new drive shaft. The strangest thing happened. When I pulled off the inboard joint the outer case of the bearings was loose and two of the bearings fell out onto my work table. Ouch! The outer case is separated from the inner race and the inner race is seized to the shaft. Also, if you look closely at the attached photos you may be able to see that the splines on the end of the shaft look damaged. What could have cause this??? I am replacing the shaft and knuckle because I have a bad wobble in the front right tire and a loud clicking noise when I turn to the right. I am guessing the click was coming from those loose bearings??
Now I'm at a standstill until I order a new inboard joint with bearings. I'll order the OEM unit unless anyone thinks there is one of better quality.

 

[retro]

Ahh... I thought you were replacing the entire axle assembly? My eyes are bad so I'm not gonna be much help for ya, but the inner race should drive off from the shaft after removing the retaining clip near the end. Hopefully someone will be along shortly that can see what you need to do with yours...? Congrats on getting it apart easily though!

 

[shadetree]

where is the inner joint that goes into the front diff ?. the cup part ?, post a pic of it as well. clicking, means the bearings and cage are worn, normal over time. cost wise ?, replace the inner joint. time wise ?, replace both of the front cv axles is what I would do.

 

[shadetree]

and just so you don't freak out !, the inner joint does come all apart !. cup, cage, bearings, retaining clip, all of that end comes apart.

 

[GirlsRideToo]

Shade - Here's photo of the cup. I don't see any problems or damage. Thank you for telling me it's normal for these things to come apart. I was freaking out! But how do I get those balls back in there???

I am planning to replace both front drive shafts.

 

[shadetree]

Shade - Here's photo of the cup. I don't see any problems or damage. Thank you for telling me it's normal for these things to come apart. I was freaking out! But how do I get those balls back in there???

I am planning to replace both front drive shafts.

pretty simple..well..for me to get them back together..lol. first, slide the middle ( smaller ) inner cage on the shaft, then install the cir-clip, MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE INNER CAGE FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION !!. then slide the outer cage over the inner cage, dab a good amount of grease into the bearing slots. place one bearing into the slot at a time, with enough grease in there , the bearing will stay. once all the bearings are in the cage, stuff the cup with plenty of grease, slide the cage down into the cup, pack more grease all around the bearing cage, now install the snap ring into the inside rim of the cup, now pull your boot over the cup, install band clamp, done !.

 

[shadetree]

and yes..just push the bearing down into the hole, so it snaps inside the cage, this requires you to line up all the slots, grease, snap, grease, snap, grease snap..you got the idea..lol. then put it together as I said ^^^. yessssssssss..the bearing will snap through the outer cage hole, and rest inside.

 

[fishfiles]

I just got two after market front cv-shafts for my 450 , Sixity is the brand , it was $93 with shipping for both , OEM wanted $175 per axle , that is $325 plus shipping ----I have heard good things about Sixity , but also know , listen to every thing you hear and believe half of it , determining which half is the key

looking at your pic of the spline end of the shaft that goes into the diff , that axle looks in very good condition , like it was fairly new ----the end with the balls doesn't look so good l

 

[shadetree]

I just got two after market front cv-shafts for my 450 , Sixity is the brand , it was $93 with shipping for both , OEM wanted $175 per axle , that is $325 plus shipping ----I have heard good things about Sixity , but also know , listen to every thing you hear and believe half of it , determining which half is the key

looking at your pic of the spline end of the shaft that goes into the diff , that axle looks in very good condition , like it was fairly new ----the end with the balls doesn't look so good l

thats what I put in this '03 trx450fm, '' sixty '' brand axles, but I got them through amazon..lol. 139.98 shipped for both front axles. he did not want to spend over 200 bucks per axle..lol. decided to try these out, and yes..they are made in china..lol. ( its not my trx450fm !..lol ).

 

[fishfiles]

I was lucky on the $93 , I just searched it and the cheapest Sixity set I can find now is $106 with free shipping , do you know Sixity has two different qualities , the XT and the XTA being a bit better