[Dant205]

Hello,
I’ve never posted on this forum, but have been using the info on this forum for a couple of years to find some really helpful info for my 2006 Rancher 350 TE. Thanks for all of the detailed info. Especially the stickies on TDC, carb repair, etc. I hate to ask another TDC question because I have read so many threads many times over and I need to know something for my piece of mind since I have split the case and removed the engine a couple of times. I’m not a mechanic, I’m a computer security guy but raised by my father who worked on all of his cars, tractor, ATVs etc.

I initially had a shifting issue and a Honda shop did a diag and told me a shift fork may need to be replaced and the shift cam stopper bolt threads would not tighten fully. The cost was more than I paid for this ATV. I replaced the forks and part of the case that holds the stopper arm. Tried helicoils but I couldn’t get that bolt to torque without falling. Long story sorry to ask this...I want to put the cases back together but before I do I’m reading the service manual and the Clymer manual and it says to line up the timing mark on the cam lobe with the mark next to the lobe that has a bearing on it. Sorry can’t remember what it’s called at the moment. So I line the marks on the cam like the manual shows. From what I understand, when the cam marks are lined up and you look at the index mark on the Flywheel, it’s clearly not on the T Mark. Not close really. I rotated it a few times but when the cam marks are lined up the mark in the sight hole is on the = mark. I’m looking at it at eye level. I move the flywheel using my hand with the recoil rope off and when I put it on the T, the mark on the cam lobe is off pretty good. When I just line up the cam marks, the piston appears to be up as high as it would go. I’ve read on this forum that some of the experienced guys may not even look at the flywheel T index mark. The last time I got this engine back together the engine was backfiring and would die when accelerating. I think that was the same old story of not having it setup on the correct stroke which now I get I never did remove the flywheel, crankshaft, chain, etc. I replaced shift forks and that’s it for that part of the case. I’m scared to put this together without knowing that I did line up correctly to TDC. I plan to just worry with the cam marks and make sure the lobes are down and watch the valves open and close as I’ve read here. Does anyone know why the T Mark on the flywheel doesn’t line up with the index when the marks on the cam lobe are lined up? Or am I misunderstanding this somehow. Sorry so long I just wanted to cover some of this because I’m really close to giving up. I’ve been working on this for months. Thanks for any insight and help.

Dan

 

[Manny]

If your flywheel key is in good standing order (not sheered), and you have your timing mark lined up on the cam and case, forget about the flywheel mark, I have found that on some engines they will be off by a few degrees.

 

[Dant205]

Thanks for the reply and mentioning the flywheel I’m going to check that and go forward

 

[Dant205]

Manny
Thanks again for your reply regarding my Flywheel T Mark not matching the marks on the cam lobe marks. I’m glad you mentioned the flywheel key. I wasn’t sure if I remembered seeing a key, but I did remember taking that large thread bolt out of the flywheel that mates with the recoil started rope. When I removed it I recall there. Sing some thick grease or gunk that looked like pieces of threads. I dug this out of the threaded Center hole in the flywheel and then put a magnet to see if this greasy threaded looking gunk was metal or dried thread holder or something. I wasn’t looking for a flywheel key when I removed the bolt. Now I see the slot for the key but no key. Do you or anyone know what would cause the key to get chewed up like that typically and since my T Mark isn’t lining up with cam marks but flywheel wasn’t removed, Do I need to get a puller and whatever tools to reinstall the flywheel crankshaft etc or when I get a replacement key just install again and put things back together like the manual says? If you have any suggestions, please let me know. I want to start putting this back together again but this flywheel key being chewed up is concerning since the flywheel was one of the only things I left alone when replacing the shift forks. I just want to do it right this time and I think you diagnosed my issue. I wish I could find a Honda mechanic I could pay to help me put this back together. Honda shop wanted 1500 for labor which i kinda get now from their side after trying to do this 3 Times. If I had that kinda of cash I would have paid it now after the time and money I spend on tools and parts. If anyone has an idea on this sheered or shredded flywheel key and how replacing will help the T Mark line up with cam marks I would greatly appreciate. Also, the key size a standard size or Honda oem. Reason is if I could find it at an auto store I could try it today or I’ll wait for the part. Any advice or ideas are welcome.

 

[retro]

I can't hardly understand your posts... try separating into paragraphs maybe...? But if you think you might need to check the flywheel key, then yes, you'll need to buy a puller to get the flywheel off.

 

[Dant205]

Retro,
I apologize for not breaking up in paragraphs and probably misused some sentence structure. It is a good deal of Text to consume at once. After reading 100s of different posts on here and reading them over and over. I was able to digest what the person was saying. Thanks for the reply regardless. The truth is that I refrained from posting to this forum many times because I didn’t want to get crap from those who are compelled to criticize every little thing. Sure, I could have hit the tab key to indent some of my info. Like many, I’m using a phone and sometimes it just looks different when it comes to formatting.

I’m not angry, just annoyed not by the paragraph comment itself. I’m annoyed by the notion that there is even a need to mention it. Have you seen some of these threads? Wonderful threads with long detailed responses with a crap load of grammatical errors, fragmented sentences and even ending sentences with an old preposition. ?

As for the issue, what i thought was the flywheel key was notch that the driven pulley aligns with. I realized to see the key, the flywheel would have to be removed.

So, I took a light and thought I could see the key in the flywheel “notch”. I decided to just line up the cam marks like I’ve done many times, put all of the rear case on except the recoil starter pulley. I then sealed up the case that covers the cam and transmission. I start putting the oil pump and shift cam, stopper arm, etc. I’m assuming still that the cam timing mark when lined up doesn’t match the sight hole as it didn’t so many times when I checked.

Before going to bed, I decided to just check that sight hole index mark since I got the back case back on and was going to save the clutches for tonight. I put my magnifier and a bright flashlight and the damn mark was on the T Mark perfectly. I have no idea why. I’ve read the manual and rotated that cam so many times trying to line it up. Finally, something is going my way and it has fired me up again to get this finished. Now I’m back to worrying about getting the rings and piston back in right. I’ve never done this before except for the 2 other times since July. I would gladly pay someone good money in the futue, but I can’t afford dealer charges. They want more to fix it than I paid for it. I’ve learned a ton. Now I’m just praying this will go back together right this time. Taking it slow but 2 manuals and this forum. Thanks.

 

[retro]

Hey, no need to apologize! I just couldn't understand your posts clearly despite all of the effort I put into trying. I realize that others may have understood them perfectly!

I was interested in learning something, so I felt that I was left with two choices here... either turn my back and walk away from your thread (while hoping that someone else might bother sorting them out)... or state my difficulty and ask you questions until I understood what in the world I/we might be able to do for you!

I can understand your last post a lot better... thank you very much for your efforts. If you need any additional advice while putting the topend together, please ask...? Have fun!

 

[Manny]

To this date I haven't found the reason why the key's sheer. its definitely rare, but happens.

I would just order a new OEM one from Honda. online retailer such as rocky mountain atv.com

after you get that installed with the correct puller you'll be on your way to getting it buttoned up.

Only other advice I can give is before you finish putting it together I would consider installing new valve stem seals in the head, and make sure and measure that bore for wear.