[Orvis25]

WTB: TRX300FW 1994 Front Bumper & Gear Rack

Trying to fix up a TRX300FW I bought.

Tried putting in a winch but the front bumper conflicts with the roller fare lead due to it (the bumper) being based in by the PO (looks like he hit a small tree or something).

I really only need the bumper, but if I can get a replacement bumper and front top rack that'd be swell.

Dose not have to be pretty (rust and an occasional brush guard dent is ok) but it must be still in factory OEM alignment.

From what I know (someone correct me if so) I can also use trx300a (not FW) bumpers, as long as its the second version (1993+?).

cheers!

 

[SamUK]

Trx300a is the 2wd model, your nearly right it’s 93-00 that will all fit and have the same appearance.

 

[fishfiles]

93-2000 2wd-A or 4wd-FW , it is still available new OEM for $104 ------check PowerSports nation . com for a used one

 

[Goober]

You may be able to “readjust” using lumber, a sledgehammer and crowbar. While it is removed; don’t try it mounted up.

What winch mount did you get? I have a KFI. I am sweating drilling holes in the dry box for the contactor –but if i run the wires to the front of the dry box about two inches from the bottom. I could fit with grommets and sealant to keep dry. This does leave the contactor terminals exposed in the box.

I have an angle drill so maybe I can do this with the rear fender mounted

 

[Orvis25]

I'm not convinced I can fix mine.The front is kinda V'd inward.

Can you explain how this 2x4 defending works?

I was hoping to not spend more than $60 to get it replaced. My repair budget for this has already gone WAYYYYYYY over.

Ps: this is the winch plate I bought: (KFI 100665)
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/163205427520

And i mounted a super atv 2000lb winch to it.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Goober]

Good choices on winch and mount.

Not intended to be critical but why settle on $60 repair budget when you paid that for the mount? Do the job correctly and the costs will work out.

So if you don’t want to buy a bumper and you figure the one you have is totaled, then try straightening it even if the result ain’t perfect. get a sledgehammer, stand on the outboard ends, put a piece of lumber on the striking surface and knock on it a few times. Start lightly and use the lightest force needed to get it realigned.

 

[Orvis25]

Ok, so after like 4 hours of working on it. I salvaged my bumper.

Took some hammering, welding and grinding, but I did it. She an't pretty, but she works.

Also cut that center bar out so it didn't conflict with my winch cable (was almost right in the middle of my rolled farelead gap)

I guess cancle my WTB request

PS: the first picture is before I filled the gaps with welder and grinded it smooth.

 

[Goober]

Man that looks PDG and ya modified it to your liking. Might try some Rustoleum Rust Reformer and satin black. Very good

 

[Orvis25]

Man that looks PDG and ya modified it to your liking. Might try some Rustoleum Rust Reformer and satin black. Very good

I have always been curious about those products.

Normally I just wire wheel parts down the best I can, and spray rustolium gloss black industrial on it (trying to wait a week before remounting or working with so it can cure a bit harder, as my experience with ruatoolium is it takes like a month to cure fully hard)

Are these things like rust inhibitors ok to use under a coat of regular rustolium? (Do they act as a primer too of sorts?

I feel like wire wheeling it will produce better long term results than using a rust inhibitor spray over existing rust.

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[SamUK]

A quick tip when painting parts....

If I want a good finish I always warm the parts with a heat gun or torch, hot to the touch but not hot enough that you can’t hold it. Larger items I heat the area I plan on starting and paint with one hand whilst heating with the other as I go.
Next step is to keep a light breeze flowing past/through the item painted, this helps cure paint faster as it blows away moisture and paint vapours.

As with any paint job though, the finish all depends on the prep job prior to paint.

 

[fishfiles]

I am a fan of self-ethicing primer , self-ethicing means it lays flat and will cover imperfections and lay smooth , also it is very good at keeping the metal from rusting , if I prime some metal with either automotive primer or dirty metal primer and then another piece with self-ethicing , the self-ethicing will last a couple of years with no rust forming , the regular prime don't last no time

 

[Goober]

You’re right it does take several days to cure completely. I also take all the surface rust off the reason I use the reformer is as a high quality primer and to treat pittting.

After I apply, I let it dry for a couple days in the sun on a hot surface (deck). Then I apply and do Same with finish coat. I have oven-baked small parts to a scratch resistant finish (160-180) but these big parts require lots of time and sun

 

[Orvis25]

You’re right it does take several days to cure completely. I also take all the surface rust off the reason I use the reformer is as a high quality primer and to treat pittting.

After I apply, I let it dry for a couple days in the sun on a hot surface (deck). Then I apply and do Same with finish coat. I have oven-baked small parts to a scratch resistant finish (160-180) but these big parts require lots of time and sun

So your saying use the rust reform, bake it (or let it sit/dry) then coat it with standard ruatoolium? That will make a pretty good scratch resistant paint combo?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Goober]

That’s what I use and it’s pretty tough once fully cured

 

[Orvis25]

That’s what I use and it’s pretty tough once fully cured

So is the rust reformer considered a "self etching primer"?

In never heard of that until today. Iv always just used standard ruatolium and a wire wheel with "ok" reaults over time

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Goober]

I don’t think it’s self-etching—they’re touting an iron conversion process using tannic and phosphoric acid to convert the rust (iron oxide) to more stable iron tannate and phosphate.

Some coating processes use an acid etch, like a hexavalent chromium solution, to create a “toothy” surface. The coating will bond tightly and uniformly.

Both processes treat the surfaces but in different ways

 

[Orvis25]

I don’t think it’s self-etching—they’re touting an iron conversion process using tannic and phosphoric acid to convert the rust (iron oxide) to more stable iron tannate and phosphate.

Some coating processes use an acid etch, like a hexavalent chromium solution, to create a “toothy” surface. The coating will bond tightly and uniformly.

Both processes treat the surfaces but in different ways

But so is using rust converter over existing paint, then using a normal paint better and longer lasting than spending the time wire wheeling it to bare metal and just applying normal rustolium?

What's your recommendation for best (longest lasting) job?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Goober]

I don’t know if you can use it to coat old paint.
I always strip all old paint off using chemical stripper

 

[Orvis25]

I don’t know if you can use it to coat old paint.
I always strip all old paint off using chemical stripper

They have a chemical stripper strong enough to take off powder coated paint? (Or whatever is on these atv's stock)

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[_Wilson_]

I've had real good results stripping honda oem rack paint with aircraft stripper, it's pricey....