[bighanded]

search came up with some really old, but limited thread info...circling back around for opinions.

old 300...previous owner had welded a face plate and support to the front face of the rack that I'm assuming was for a vertical lift for his deer hunting..

I currently keep a small 1500 winch with reese receiver stem that I add when I'm expecting to do tree work.. I've got a 2500Badlands that I was thinking about mounting on the front rack...if I get in the occassional bind it would be in /around creek bed...I think the answer from ya'll will be NOT to trust too much stress on the rack..but can't help but be curious about anyone who has actual experience pulling trees or pulling your small bike out of trouble mounted to rack instead of frame?

thanks

Ed

 

[mrbb]

the weak link will be the bolt that hold the rack on and there SMALL TINY things that will snap/shear off with any load, and being up high on the rack when things let loose, your asking to be missing a few teeth IMO
many folks I know use to mount things on racks for LIFTING a snow plow, light weight use deal, NOT actually winching a stuck atv or anything with any real load to it!
lots of folks do real dumb things all the time, that are NOT safe nor mart
IMO doesn't mean anyone else should copy them!

there mounted to the frames on ATV's for a reason and NOT racks
it even helps to re direct the blow back of a line when it snaps being lower than the top of the rack, so safer all around not to mention stronger by a BOAT load!

 

[bighanded]

thanks, all makes sense...and yeah...changing cable out for rope as well.

 

[shadetree]

please do not mount a winch to the rack !!!. its made to mount to the frame.

 

[mrbb]

thanks, all makes sense...and yeah...changing cable out for rope as well.

if your winch HAD steel wire rope on it, most times, you HAVE to replace spool, and NOT just line, as many spools are NOT able to handle syn rope
and you also have to have a NEW hawse fairlead,. you cannot use your old one you ran steel wire on!

so its NOT just a simple as removing steel rope and replacing with syn line, more to it than that!

and also, just so you know
SYN still hold energy and can snap back JUST like wire rope, just with a little less power
so its NOT perfect either!
and it can also get damaged on rocks and rough things and break
if you drag tree's or rocks often, wire rope is more durable!

 

[Hoagie98]

2002 Honda Trx 400EX

Hey y’all, I’m new to forums because I had some questions and looking for some answers, I have a 2002 Honda 400ex I had the motor rebuilt back in March and it ran great. Didn’t ride it too much but rode it enough to keep it active. Go out one day to start it and it’s having trouble starting, it boggs out and won’t idle properly. I left it alone and come back service it, added some oil cleaned it up and it still had some trouble but I got it hot enough to ride it. Then I come to ride it again and go to start it and the starter just spins, thought battery was low so charged it up and starter still spins, I haven’t took a good look at it to fix it yet, because I don’t know where to start. I was thinking something with starter clutch but I just had it rebuilt and it was put together in tip top shape, or possibly with the CDI, idk if CDI would cause this issue or not, then again I was thinking it was wire harness because it is a 2002 and wire harness is pretty beat up. Any suggestions would help!! Thanks

 

[mrbb]

Hey y’all, I’m new to forums because I had some questions and looking for some answers, I have a 2002 Honda 400ex I had the motor rebuilt back in March and it ran great. Didn’t ride it too much but rode it enough to keep it active. Go out one day to start it and it’s having trouble starting, it boggs out and won’t idle properly. I left it alone and come back service it, added some oil cleaned it up and it still had some trouble but I got it hot enough to ride it. Then I come to ride it again and go to start it and the starter just spins, thought battery was low so charged it up and starter still spins, I haven’t took a good look at it to fix it yet, because I don’t know where to start. I was thinking something with starter clutch but I just had it rebuilt and it was put together in tip top shape, or possibly with the CDI, idk if CDI would cause this issue or not, then again I was thinking it was wire harness because it is a 2002 and wire harness is pretty beat up. Any suggestions would help!! Thanks

first off welcome to the site
but what you need to do is START a tread of your own and NOT add things to a tread ona totally diffent topic, as you won't get much help this way

MAYBE a mod can move this for you too??


BUT odds are if atv sat much or didn;t see much use, fuel is BAD
so, IMO, I would start with fuel, drain tank, make sure tank is clean and then, CLEAN carb
I would also suggest PULLING battery, taking to a local chain autp parts store and have them load test the battery, just cause it read "X" volts with a volt meter afetr being on a charger DOESN"T mean battery is good or strong enough to run atv!


do this and see what happens!

again START YOUR OWN TREAD< it will get you the best help!

 

[Hoagie98]

Yeah sorry I’m having trouble figuring out how to start one of my own, didn’t mean to send it in here lol. But thanks for the help

 

[mrbb]

Yeah sorry I’m having trouble figuring out how to start one of my own, didn’t mean to send it in here lol. But thanks for the help

no harm we all learn as we go

 

[bighanded]

thanks, all makes sense...and yeah...changing cable out for rope as well.

if your winch HAD steel wire rope on it, most times, you HAVE to replace spool, and NOT just line, as many spools are NOT able to handle syn rope
and you also have to have a NEW hawse fairlead,. you cannot use your old one you ran steel wire on!

so its NOT just a simple as removing steel rope and replacing with syn line, more to it than that!

and also, just so you know
SYN still hold energy and can snap back JUST like wire rope, just with a little less power
so its NOT perfect either!
and it can also get damaged on rocks and rough things and break
if you drag tree's or rocks often, wire rope is more durable!

But... but.... on youtube..they just.... (grin).....hey..this is great great advice..thanks so much!!

I'll leave the steel on there and it will get mounted properly... I just was thinking a bit of height could help get a tree limb up off the ground and not dig when being pulled...as it is I've had a smaller 1500 winch on stem that slides into the rear Reese receiver for pulling trees...my property really doesn't present challenges that get the quad stuck...right now the pond is low and there are about 30 small 3inch-5inch trees that I will cut down, they'll tend to fall into the pond and I'll winch the base of them up and drag them out and over to my burn pile.
i was thinking changing to rope would nice so I wouldn't suffer with the occassional binding where the cable gets all dug into itself and I can't easily unreel it...
I also keep a good pull rope in the crate on the bike and it tends to get used as much as anything.

ya'll are great as always...thanks again

 

[SamUK]

So here's the short answer....

Use google and find out for yourself the strength of an M8 bolt. There are four holding the front carrier to the main frame.

A 1500 to 2000 lb winch will sheer four M8 bolts, not sure what affect or damage it will have in the carrier itself, quite possibly major.

I briefly read this thread so bear with me, here's a few questions...

Do you have a welder and/or any fabrication skills? How is your knowledge on the strength of mild steel and existing fabrications?

Best option is buy or make a proper mount..!

 

[mrbb]

thanks, all makes sense...and yeah...changing cable out for rope as well.

if your winch HAD steel wire rope on it, most times, you HAVE to replace spool, and NOT just line, as many spools are NOT able to handle syn rope
and you also have to have a NEW hawse fairlead,. you cannot use your old one you ran steel wire on!

so its NOT just a simple as removing steel rope and replacing with syn line, more to it than that!

and also, just so you know
SYN still hold energy and can snap back JUST like wire rope, just with a little less power
so its NOT perfect either!
and it can also get damaged on rocks and rough things and break
if you drag tree's or rocks often, wire rope is more durable!

But... but.... on youtube..they just.... (grin).....hey..this is great great advice..thanks so much!!

I'll leave the steel on there and it will get mounted properly... I just was thinking a bit of height could help get a tree limb up off the ground and not dig when being pulled...as it is I've had a smaller 1500 winch on stem that slides into the rear Reese receiver for pulling trees...my property really doesn't present challenges that get the quad stuck...right now the pond is low and there are about 30 small 3inch-5inch trees that I will cut down, they'll tend to fall into the pond and I'll winch the base of them up and drag them out and over to my burn pile.
i was thinking changing to rope would nice so I wouldn't suffer with the occassional binding where the cable gets all dug into itself and I can't easily unreel it...
I also keep a good pull rope in the crate on the bike and it tends to get used as much as anything.

ya'll are great as always...thanks again

YOU do know your NOT supposed to use your winch for towing things RIGHT
and the reason is, when your towing something and it makes contact with a solid object you can add excessive stress to the parts inside the winch
when a winch is WINCHING< it is a SLOW Steady pull, NO sudden jerks or loads
its also the same reason your NOT supposed to use q winch as a TIE down, its NOT made to work for these things
' if your dragging logs far and often, you should be using a choker chain or cable, its what there made for!
winches are MADE for WINCHING
tow straps and chokers are MADE for dragging things
as they say right tool for the job
a winch line can SNAP when being used as a TOW rope too, and cause serious injury if your hit when things let loose, as again, sudden bursts on LOAD when dragging something with atv and hooked to winch line, can case it ti SNAP< by getting overloaded on stress/load!
an atv going say 20 mpg and a sudden grab on something adds LOT of stress to a line?
IMO best thing to use when dragging things with an atv is a good old HEAVY chain, even if they break they don;t go far!

 

[bighanded]

if your winch HAD steel wire rope on it, most times, you HAVE to replace spool, and NOT just line, as many spools are NOT able to handle syn rope
and you also have to have a NEW hawse fairlead,. you cannot use your old one you ran steel wire on!

so its NOT just a simple as removing steel rope and replacing with syn line, more to it than that!

and also, just so you know
SYN still hold energy and can snap back JUST like wire rope, just with a little less power
so its NOT perfect either!
and it can also get damaged on rocks and rough things and break
if you drag tree's or rocks often, wire rope is more durable!

But... but.... on youtube..they just.... (grin).....hey..this is great great advice..thanks so much!!

I'll leave the steel on there and it will get mounted properly... I just was thinking a bit of height could help get a tree limb up off the ground and not dig when being pulled...as it is I've had a smaller 1500 winch on stem that slides into the rear Reese receiver for pulling trees...my property really doesn't present challenges that get the quad stuck...right now the pond is low and there are about 30 small 3inch-5inch trees that I will cut down, they'll tend to fall into the pond and I'll winch the base of them up and drag them out and over to my burn pile.
i was thinking changing to rope would nice so I wouldn't suffer with the occassional binding where the cable gets all dug into itself and I can't easily unreel it...
I also keep a good pull rope in the crate on the bike and it tends to get used as much as anything.

ya'll are great as always...thanks again

YOU do know your NOT supposed to use your winch for towing things RIGHT
and the reason is, when your towing something and it makes contact with a solid object you can add excessive stress to the parts inside the winch
when a winch is WINCHING< it is a SLOW Steady pull, NO sudden jerks or loads
its also the same reason your NOT supposed to use q winch as a TIE down, its NOT made to work for these things
' if your dragging logs far and often, you should be using a choker chain or cable, its what there made for!
winches are MADE for WINCHING
tow straps and chokers are MADE for dragging things
as they say right tool for the job
a winch line can SNAP when being used as a TOW rope too, and cause serious injury if your hit when things let loose, as again, sudden bursts on LOAD when dragging something with atv and hooked to winch line, can case it ti SNAP< by getting overloaded on stress/load!
an atv going say 20 mpg and a sudden grab on something adds LOT of stress to a line?
IMO best thing to use when dragging things with an atv is a good old HEAVY chain, even if they break they don;t go far!

thanks again BB....here's what it looks like in my world...think 4-6 inch sappling type trees..but they've grown to mayb 15-20 feet..too long and heavey for me to just toss into my 10ft utility trailer...cut one, winch it up from the pond bank and drag it about 100-200 yds to a burn pile or wood area...slooooww driving..but I get your point...unhook the winch, rope/chain it up ...I'm not hauling what I'd consider logs or heavy tree..would be harder on my old 300 than I want to abuse ... with what I'm a cutting.. I can pretty much grab it and walk it myself...so the honda simply lets me do a lot more and not strain the old back n shoulders....but you make excellent points all around...and your experience is grealy appreciated...else I'd be learning the hard way I'm sure...

 

[fishfiles]

the first 300 I had , had the winch on top the rack , bolted to a plate that went from one side to the other , so it was pulling on all the bars , still only the 4 bolts holding the rack on , that was about 11 years ago now , eventually after a couple of years , I put it under the fender , I never did bend or pull the rack off ---- I guess I should not do it , but I pull on the winch with the engine all the time , I will winch the people stuck a ways and when the start to move I will gas the engine and try to pull them with the engine instead of winch

 

[SamUK]

Just for the record four M8 8.8 tensile bolts should shear at 2189 lbs. That's new bolts in new nuts/threads..

The rest I should imagine is self explanatory.

 

[mrbb]

Just for the record four M8 8.8 tensile bolts should shear at 2189 lbs. That's new bolts in new nuts/threads..

The rest I should imagine is self explanatory.

I don't think you can use your INFO here, Sam, and NOT a bash, but the tensile of any bolt comes down to what the bolt is made out if, and there are TONS of different metals and alloys they make bolts out of that will alter your info on a specific SIZE bolt without knowing what it is made of!

the point of NOT towing things with a winch, is simple, even when a atv is pulling something slow or some what light, its the SUDDEN STOP if the object snags on something, and you get that high stress load on things and that is when damage happens
pulling an atv out and then dragging it, is less a issue for me, as the ayv has wheels
where as a log or?? can grab onto the ground, a rock, a root or?? and
its weight in motion and that SUDDEN stop that can be damaging
like they say its NOT the crash that always hurts you, its the fact your body keeps going and then hits something that causes injuries to us humans
laws of physic's folks
weight in motion can be powerful stuff!

FISH I am sure you seen your share of large boats going slow hit something solid, and what can happen LOL
all that weight in motion even it moving slow, can do a LOT of BIG damage!

 

[SamUK]

The tensile strength of a bolt is cut and dried, it's stamped on there for a reason. It's the fasteners safe working load at a 5:1 ratio, or at least that's the case here in the UK. Here what I'm saying is FACT, I could even get a bolt tested for you and video the break point for you.

Admittedly, break points differ. Longitudinally and transverse, in this case we're talking transverse.
As always, I'll gladly hold my hands up and admit I'm wrong if science proves my statement wrong

 

[mrbb]

The tensile strength of a bolt is cut and dried, it's stamped on there for a reason. It's the fasteners safe working load at a 5:1 ratio, or at least that's the case here in the UK. Here what I'm saying is FACT, I could even get a bolt tested for you and video the break point for you.

Admittedly, break points differ. Longitudinally and transverse, in this case we're talking transverse.
As always, I'll gladly hold my hands up and admit I'm wrong if science proves my statement wrong

HAHA< I am talking about metals, stainless steel, galvanized, hard case cured
grade 3-grade 5 grade 8, and so on, they all have different breaking shearing points based on the metal and the hardness of it
so, shear numbers will be based on type of metal/material the bolt is made of as well as its hardness rating
' its NOT the same for all metals, is all I was saying, NOT a debate or bash,meant

just saying, a one size doesn;'t fit all is the honest answer to a bolts shear point!


there is a guy on youtube that all I think he does is break things and measure what and how much it takes, and not all both need the same amount of force to shear!
even if the same dia of the bolt
material the bolt is made of factors in always!

 

[shadetree]

The tensile strength of a bolt is cut and dried, it's stamped on there for a reason. It's the fasteners safe working load at a 5:1 ratio, or at least that's the case here in the UK. Here what I'm saying is FACT, I could even get a bolt tested for you and video the break point for you.

Admittedly, break points differ. Longitudinally and transverse, in this case we're talking transverse.
As always, I'll gladly hold my hands up and admit I'm wrong if science proves my statement wrong

HAHA< I am talking about metals, stainless steel, galvanized, hard case cured
grade 3-grade 5 grade 8, and so on, they all have different breaking shearing points based on the metal and the hardness of it
so, shear numbers will be based on type of metal/material the bolt is made of as well as its hardness rating
' its NOT the same for all metals, is all I was saying, NOT a debate or bash,meant

just saying, a one size doesn;'t fit all is the honest answer to a bolts shear point!


there is a guy on youtube that all I think he does is break things and measure what and how much it takes, and not all both need the same amount of force to shear!
even if the same dia of the bolt
material the bolt is made of factors in always!

my $.02's worth !, what good is it to install a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt, when the metal your installing it in is less ??????. ITS NOT !!!. in other words..do you REALLY THINK HONDA IS MAKING RACKS OUT OF GRADE 5 OR GRADE 8 METAL ?...NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!..LOL.

 

[fishfiles]

Sometimes you can hit something fast and hard and cause just a little damage and it turns into some big damage

I had a Suzuki 140 on a 21ft fishing boat , running thru Breton Sound I hit a oyster reef , stopped the boat dead in it's tracks , the stainless prop was OK and we continued fishing , running in the engine lost power and I had to idle in for a long ways , took it to the dealer I purchased it from as it was still in warranty , they said it burned a hole in a piston from the oil pump failing , so they warrantied it , rebuilt it , new oil pump and gave it back , next trip , it was running a just a bit rough , 1/2 hour in and lost power , idled back in , and this time took it to another Suzuki dealer , he found that the flywheel key way was sheered , which alter the timing and was the cause of the piston burned up again , lucky for me they warrantied it again , this time it was under the insurance side