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I'm looking at 12" itp steel wheels to accommodate some larger tyres. I've seen a lot of you guys seem to run front wheels all round or irs wheels, am I right in saying that? I like the way ATV's look with the same wheels all around so I'd like to go with that but, am I going to run into any issues using fronts with my 350D rear? All I can think is im going to need spacers and that it will expose the rear brake drum further.
I suppose I should also ask if these wheels are upto the job, as strong or stronger than OEM I should have thought?
 

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if you go that way you will need 2 - 3 inch spacers stacked up or maybe a 3 and a 2 , seen people do that , but I also seen how much added wear it puts on the hub splines to run just 1 2inch spacer and large tires
 

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if you go that way you will need 2 - 3 inch spacers stacked up or maybe a 3 and a 2 , seen people do that , but I also seen how much added wear it puts on the hub splines to run just 1 2inch spacer and large tires
Yeh, I know the spacers really increase the stress load on bearings etc. Would have been nice to have the same wheel all round. Don't really fancy having my rear end wear out quickly, it's in really good condition, very little wear.
 

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I think the deep dish rims in the rear make it look good , even with the deep dish rims my bike in the pic has 2 inch spacers to keep the tire off the muffler ,
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How does your rear end handle the 2" spacers, has it affected wheel bearing longevity or like you said earlier, spline wear?
I hope to run 28x9's all round once I've got my GR all sorted, I'd like to go a little wider though so keeping deep dish rears would be an option and fit spacers. I'd go for new wider A arms up front to gain the extra width.
 

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Don't forget wider A arms means new shafts, and they won't be cheap. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't forget wider A arms means new shafts, and they won't be cheap. lol
It will need new shafts towards the end of the year unfortunately. I did look at the price and felt like crying! Ha..
 

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@SamUK

Too much thumb pressure. lol :)
 

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I have to disagree with Mac on that , seems to me from experience the farther out you get the back of the rim flange away from the end the axle tube the more it wobbles out the splines inside the hub and thins the splines , it is about leverage -------- I got 5/2 rims with a 2 inch spacer so it is pretty much a 7/0 ( or maybe thats called 0/7 ) , with 26x12 Mudzillas it wore the hubs faster than anyone of my other 300's with the 250/350 rear ends with 25's and less aggressive threads

I got a new to me axle and two hubs yesterday for a 86TRX250A , very good condition , to go into my rear end , right now both side hubs are JBWelded in to take up the slack in the splines , that works and will buy time , going to run it till it gets loose again , and if I don't have time to fix it right I will probably just weld the hub to the axle and run it some more

oh , in the pic I threw in a ATC250ES axle ( the one in the rear ) which has worn out hubs and axle splines , so you can see the difference in length that we were talking about on another thread , it is about 2 inches
 

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I agree with Mac on this one. Sounds like the OP is just trying to overall match the stock offset in the rear. So whether you get to that total width by a high offset (stock) rim, or with a spacer and front offset rim, your hub/splines see the weight put on from the same width. Now if you go spacers to go wider than stock, now we're talking added stress.

Sam, delta steels are super durable. I'd get 2.5" spacers for each side of the rear, then get 4 identical rims and tires and then you can rotate front to rear and even out wear throughout their life. I wouldn't worry one bit.
 

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I agree with Mac on this one. Sounds like the OP is just trying to overall match the stock offset in the rear. So whether you get to that total width by a high offset (stock) rim, or with a spacer and front offset rim, your hub/splines see the weight put on from the same width. Now if you go spacers to go wider than stock, now we're talking added stress.

Sam, delta steels are super durable. I'd get 2.5" spacers for each side of the rear, then get 4 identical rims and tires and then you can rotate front to rear and even out wear throughout their life. I wouldn't worry one bit.

are you speaking from experience ---- have you ever run spacers on anything you own ------ I got 7 bikes running at the moment with spacers on every wheel front and back , 6 of them are 300's with modified rear end conversions , I think I have seen what spacers do
 

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If the wheel sticks out further, it sticks out further. It doesn't matter how it gets there. There is no difference between running a 2+5 wheel with no spacers vs. a 5+2 wheel with 3" spacers. The only way the spacers are going to cause damage is if you run the individual stud style spacers in which case you can pretty much count on snapping off the wheel studs.
 

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I would agree with your theory the way you put it , that everything should remain the same if you added a spacer to the wrong rim for the bike to achieve the right offset , but that is not what is going to happen here in this case , it will take at least one spacer to get back even and then another to get the right offset as he doesn't have a stock rear end and spacers are needed to clear the muffler , so that is sticking it out farther than originally equipped
 

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I was making the exact same point as Mac, apparently that wasn't clear, sorry. And it got muddied cause I wasn't saying anything specific about the 350D rear end. Point made, moving on for sake of the OP...
 

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350D rear is wider than OEM.......not that it matters the point I'm trying to make remains, you put the same stress on the rear end regardless of whether you use a deeper offset wheel or spacers. Think about an IRS machine, you can run SRA wheels and make it 3" wider per side or run 3" spacers....what is harder on bearings?


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Discussion Starter #17
Mixed response there then.

So my plan is this... I will eventually be fitting 28" tyres, I've always gone by the the motto 'higher means wider', just to keep the stability. The front I can make wider with A arms and necessary off the shelf parts but the rear I'd need spacers or larger offset wheels.
At the same time (while I'm looking to buy wheels) I thought it would be nice to have matching rims all round. It's not critical to have matching rims just thought it would look nice.

So if I count looks out of the equation what would you guys do? Fit spacers and use front wheels all round or would you use a larger offset wheel on the rear and keep a standard offset wheel on the front?

Thanks for the input so far.
 

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350D rear is wider than OEM.......not that it matters the point I'm trying to make remains, you put the same stress on the rear end regardless of whether you use a deeper offset wheel or spacers. Think about an IRS machine, you can run SRA wheels and make it 3" wider per side or run 3" spacers....what is harder on bearings?


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I totally agree with you that putting spacers on another offset rim to achieve the same offset as OEM is the same -------- but when you stick it out past stock to clear the muffler , what I have experienced with mine is the inside the hub gets loose from two ways , it appears the hub gets egg shape and the splines of the axle and the hub get thinner then the hub goes farther onto the axle , I am running the same offset rims as stock , the tires are bigger and the extra 2 inches of spacer is putting more leverage on the hub , no doubt sticking it out 2 inches past stock makes a lot of difference , then when you added in the bigger , heavier , more aggressive tires and a "ragging it mentality " it shortens the life expectancy of the hubs and they are getting harder to find for the 250 rear ends --- I know you have to pay to play , so it is what it is
 
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