[agdodge4x4]

1986 TRX200SX

Front brakes on one side will not retract. The handle does without any issue.

The front left works and retracts, but only the rearward shoe really moves out and contacts the drum. Teh front pad doesnt move much at all.

Does this all sound like a wheel cylinder issue? Can I take them apart to lube them?

 

[agdodge4x4]

On my front left yes....When the brakes are released I can push the pad away from the drum with my finger. I can test it with the drum on obviously. I've never worked on drums but the wear on the shoes is very uneven between front and back and top and bottom. So this is normal?

On the right,I can't even get the drum off. Need a puller or something. The brakes drag on it for sure. Is there anything to lube on it to make it retract better? Hose looks ok to me...,.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Meant to say I CANNOT test anything with drums on. Can't access anything inside.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Well, I have to replace the pads anyway, so I'm thinking of putting the wheel back on the right side and using a jaw puller VERY gently while TAPPING the center hub. I should be able to do this very carefully without bending anything but I will certainly see of the adjuster is free first.

As far as I know there is no wheel cylinder OR rebuild kit available for this bike so if it's hosed then thats the end of the road for this ride unless I'm missing something.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Alright, I messed with it tonight again. I dont want to put heat on it as I will destroy the seals and bearings. The adjusters are frozen. They won't budge. I am going to have to drop a puller on the wheel while its installed on the bike with the hub nut removed. Has anyone done this? I don't know if the wheel can handle it, but I have pretty much no other choice right now. I can't beat on the castle nut and hub any more, its not budging. Its soaked in penetrating lube and has been all day. I've tried gently beating around the drum, but even gentle taps have put small marks on the drum, so I can't hit on it really hard enough to make much difference. I know dents on the outside don't translate to the inside, but I don't want to REALLY hit on it. If this was my truck where I could run down to Oreilly, it would have been off already with a torch and 5lb sledge...guaranteed.

I tried loosely putting the rim on the bike with the drum nut removed, and then just slamming the wheel towards me to the lug nuts, but its not enough force to pull the drum off. I feel like if I can put a puller on the rim and drum and put a little pressure on it, not CRANK it down, just firm it up, and tap the center bolt, it would give. Maybe not. I got no other ideas.

Any other advice for putting a puller on it?

 

[agdodge4x4]

Im near Houston. I'll get this off. I know parts are available, but I hate spending too much on this. I wanted to avoid taking everything apart, but on this bike the rear brakes were so far out of adjustment that they really weren't activating, so whoever used it before has been running on the fronts since then. The front left pad is very thin, and I suspect the right may be metal on metal. The left drum is within service spec, but just barely. Hopefully the right is OK. At any rate, I think removing the wheel cylinders and dropping everything else in degreaser and rust removal bath will be highly beneficial. I have a hydrochloric acid product that will strip rust off of parts and make them look brand new in minutes. The adjusters will need that. Thanks for the ideas. Tomorrow, Ill work on it again.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Alright, I got the MF'er off. That's the good news. The not so good news is that the hub spindle is crushed a little. Yes, it took THAT MUCH force to pull it with a puller. I ended up partially threading nuts on the studs and pulling against that. I tried the wheel, but it looked like it wanted to bend, so I stopped. The spindle is just peened a little, so the cotter pin won't go back through. I was able to file off the edge so the nut goes on, and I think I can just drill out the hole a little and it'll be good to go.

The bad news is that bearings and seal were destroyed by my torch. I tried my best to apply just as much heat as needed, but it was not happening. I can see the bearings are rusted to the hub. It's apart now. Need to replace seals and bearings. The wheel cylinder on that side doesn't look like it works, but I don't have the pads off yet. We will see.

Hate damaging things, but I guess you do what you gotta do. It's not anything that ruined the integrity of the hub I don't think.

 

[agdodge4x4]

And the wheel cylinder is trashed.

I can't pull out the pieces with a vice and channel locks. Where do I get new wheel cylinders?

I see them all over ebay, but not the part numbers I need:

45350-HB3-003
45370-HB3-003


I need these two, I find part numbers that are kinda close, but not exact. Surely Honda used the same cylinders on like...every other quad they made from 1984 to 1987? Can someone help me cross reference it?

 

[agdodge4x4]

There is a TON of corrosion along the outside of it. No clue why, but its probably the original fluid. Hopefully my master cylinder is ok. Yikes.

I found this:

*Updated 5/31/14* TRX200SX Front Brake Question

Any thoughts? It looks like HONDA BRAKE CYLINDER ASSEMBLY LEFT & RIGHT TRX250 RECON 2007-2014 might work, as long as I grind off the alignment dowel!

Whatcha think? If that fits, then I bet others do too. WIsh there was a way to verify.

But I dont understand the difference....because this part number is different but it looks pretty damn close. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-2006-T...ash=item44018ef934:g:6HQAAOSwBLlVQ9lP&vxp=mtr

 

[agdodge4x4]

I think you found the solution!! I imagine all of those cylinders would work. The newer Recon cylinders are probably a safer bet though, cause someone already verified the fit on them. The adjuster blocks look pretty close to the same too.

Master cylinder will be a similar deal if you need one... Most of them take the same banjo bolt to hook up the brake line and they all fit a 7/8" handlebar, so whatever you can find cheap will probably work just fine. Thanks for sharing that!

For what its worth, the adjuster part numbers on mine and the newer recon are exactly the same, as noted in the previous post here. I ordered the brakes...I got left AND right in case there is some balance issue.

I'm going to take a chance on teh new cylinders. I have no choice. I have to have front brakes.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Alright, I got my new brake cylinders in. Upon inspection, it looks like it is indeed true that grinding off one of the alignment pins will allow these cylinder to fit. However, the OLD parts and new parts are mirror images of each other in terms of where the bleeder and brake hose connections are situated. So....to make this work, I need to put the new LEFT cylinder on the RIGHT side of the quad, and vice versa for the the left side.

Does anyone see ANY problem with this as long as the hose hooks up and the cylinders are properly secured to the panel/knuckle? If not, then I'll take pics and post what Im doing.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Something's not right. My original parts aren't working out with what I see in the service manual. Can someone take a pic of this quad front brake panel from behind so o can see how the brake lines hook up in relation to the panel tab and bleeder and such?

Everything is jacked up and mixed. My right bleeder points to the front and is in front of the brake hose. That's what the parts diagram shows. The service manual shows something different.