So my 2002 Rancher has a bad wheel bearing I think. Left rear wheel squeaks and squeals intermittently, sometimes very loudly. I took the wheel off and rotated the hub and it definitely sounds like it's isolated to that spot. I've googled and searched for a tutorial for wheel bearing replacement but haven't found a good one for our machines. My question is does anyone have a good tutorial for replacing these and do I need any specialty tools to do the job?
Wheel bearing replacement tutorial?
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I have not seen a video on that yet , sure there is one out there , when searching for a video , maybe don't go for your year and model , stay generic , like just Rancher -----I would suggest Pivot Works for the wheel bearings and seals , they will give you a one time replacement , I have not had to use replace a set yet , that is saying a lot for what I ride in
You don't need a video... and probably won't find one. The left rear wheel bearing and seal on your Rancher is routinely easy to replace. Grab a free copy of the service manual for your bike from the manuals section and follow the directions.
You'll need a 30mm socket, either an impact wrench or a breaker bar, and some basic tools. You'll need a large cotter pin, some good grease to pack into the new bearing (don't buy china bearing/seal or you'll be doing the job again next week) and into the lip of the new hub seal. You can still buy the OEM bearings and the seal... those are the best choice you can make because that hub seal is not an ordinary type. Torque that hub down to spec when you put it together.
You'll need a 30mm socket, either an impact wrench or a breaker bar, and some basic tools. You'll need a large cotter pin, some good grease to pack into the new bearing (don't buy china bearing/seal or you'll be doing the job again next week) and into the lip of the new hub seal. You can still buy the OEM bearings and the seal... those are the best choice you can make because that hub seal is not an ordinary type. Torque that hub down to spec when you put it together.
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I just pulled my hubs on the 450 which I think are the exact same , a 1 3/16 socket will also work if you have it and not a 30mm --------a speciality tool that can save you some time and work would be a slide hammer with a hook on the end , I used it to remove that left bearing from the axle tube , without removing the tube from the diff------- if you don't have a slide hammer , you can remove the tube and use a long punch or round bar and drive the bearing out the tube from the other side
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ya think ya got a big enough recovery hook on the back fish ?!!..lmao.
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If needs another knuckle similar to a UJ, shouldn’t dig in at all then.
I appreciate the responses. As I was going to be traveling for 2 weeks for work I took it in to the shop. According to them the rear wheels were mounted backwards and caused all sorts of havoc to the rear end. That doesn’t make sense to me because the last time the wheels were off it was by a Honda dealer to do brake work. I attached the estimate with parts/labor. Anyway, I don’t really want to pay $1300 for repairs on a machine this old. Looking for ideas, take to another shop? Try to find a complete rear end on eBay or something? How hard would that be to install? Any help is appreciated, this is bad timing with winter around the corner.
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ochhh !!. man..i'm sure glad I know how to rebuild all of that !. how close are ya to Arkansas ?, I could do that for about half the cost for parts, and hardly any labor for members here.
PSN sells good used parts, shipped fast & free and fully guaranteed. Are you sure your rear diff is bad, or was the dealer skinning you out with that estimate?
powersportsnation - Search Results for "+honda +rancher +350 +rear +differential"
powersportsnation - Search Results for "+honda +rancher +350 +rear +differential"
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with a cost that high^^^^..i'd think that was a honda dealership ?, he hasn't said ?. regardless..thats a tough pill to swallow period...lol.
Yeah, its robbery. It had to be a Honda dealer to quote him something that ridiculously high. He can buy a complete rear diff brand new for $263.30, shipped.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2002/trx350fm-a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4/final-driven-gear
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2002/trx350fm-a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4/final-driven-gear
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yep, we had this some convo with this trx450fm project I am working on !. its cheaper to just buy the whole unit, than piece it back together !..lol.
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I read the quote and if you noticed they actually list Quad Boss as the kits for both the rear axle and the diff , as far as I am concerned , Quad Boss is junk , the only after market bearing kits I would buy would be Pivot Works -------- most of the prices on there of other Honda OEM parts can be had cheaper buying them yourself from a dealer like Partzilla , $960 labor is ridiculous , they have 6.5 hours to rebuild the rear diff and the cost of the kit , that exceeds what you could get another complete diff assembled for
That left rear bearing is an easy job. Hour tops including time to get your tools out and put them up.
If you need a rear diff as Shade said a new one is half what they're quoting you to put crap rebuild parts in your old diff. Doesn't make sense.
Swingarm bearings can be a pain to replace, but if you can turn a wrench at all you can do it. Getting the old ones out is the only hard part.
Do it yourself. Lots of us here are happy to help you. Depending on your location you might have someone local who would do it for you if you supply the parts and a little beer.
If you need a rear diff as Shade said a new one is half what they're quoting you to put crap rebuild parts in your old diff. Doesn't make sense.
Swingarm bearings can be a pain to replace, but if you can turn a wrench at all you can do it. Getting the old ones out is the only hard part.
Do it yourself. Lots of us here are happy to help you. Depending on your location you might have someone local who would do it for you if you supply the parts and a little beer.
If all you need to replace is that left rear bearing....
Unbolt wheel and remove.
Remove cotter pin in axle nut.
Remove axle nut (30mm Socket, impact would be best, but if you don't have an impact use a long breaker bar).
Pull hub off.
Unbolt skid plate from bottom of differential (3 12mm bolts)
Unbolt the left axle tube coming off the diff. (4, 14mm nuts)
Make sure you leave the little spacer/bearing stopper on the end of the axle.
Take axle tube and use a long rod/pipe/breaker bar and drive the old bearing out of the axle tube.
Take new bearing and drive it back into axle tube.
Tap new seal in end of axle tube
Reassemble in reverse order.
Thanks guys, it is not a Honda dealership, it is just a powersports repair shop. As for my wrenching ability, I've done simple things, changing the oil, installed a winch, cleaned out the carb. But I've also once tried to work on the brakes and did not succeed. It sounds like I should probably take it to another shop from the sounds of things. I'm in the Cleveland area. It's got 4500 miles on it so I don't want to sink a ton of money into it. If they give me a similar quote then I guess I'll try to do it myself hopefully with the help of you all.
Thanks again guys.
Thanks again guys.
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don't bother, service manual, some basic metric tools, and ask us all the questions you need answering ?..and we'll save you tons of cash. course..you can donate some of that left over cash to us if ya want !..lol.
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