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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2015 Rancher 420 4x4 DCT with stock 24" tires and a snorkel. I ride a few times a month and a typical ride is in the river, as well as muddy trails through woods, and mud pits. I regularly see water up to the seat.

I would like to gain some ground clearance to get me through deep ruts in the trails and to get me up out of the water a little bit more. But I'm weary of a lift kit, so I'm looking more towards a good tire (in 27x9 all around?) to achieve added ground clearance. I know you can't have it all in a tire, but any suggestions? I'd really like to do better in the soft river bed and mud holes. Gotta keep up with my buddies Sportsman 850 High Lifter haha

I don't want a gear reduction, clutch kit, programmer, or any of that. I just need more ground clearance and a better tire in the mud/river without killing my trail riding. I'll probably upgrade the air filter soon. And 12" or 14" wheels will be added with the tires. I've done plenty of research, and mostly looking towards Zillas, MudLite XTR, MudLite XL, Mega Mayhems but I can't decide
 

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I have a 2015 Rancher 420 4x4 DCT with stock 24" tires and a snorkel. I ride a few times a month and a typical ride is in the river, as well as muddy trails through woods, and mud pits. I regularly see water up to the seat.

I would like to gain some ground clearance to get me through deep ruts in the trails and to get me up out of the water a little bit more. But I'm weary of a lift kit, so I'm looking more towards a good tire (in 27x9 all around?) to achieve added ground clearance. I know you can't have it all in a tire, but any suggestions? I'd really like to do better in the soft river bed and mud holes. Gotta keep up with my buddies Sportsman 850 High Lifter haha

I don't want a gear reduction, clutch kit, programmer, or any of that. I just need more ground clearance and a better tire in the mud/river without killing my trail riding. I'll probably upgrade the air filter soon. And 12" or 14" wheels will be added with the tires. I've done plenty of research, and mostly looking towards Zillas, MudLite XTR, MudLite XL, Mega Mayhems but I can't decide
There are many options as you know and plenty of folks here be able to comment on actual use. The comment I would make is select a good quality low weight wheel/tire combination to minimize the drag effect and need for gear reduction, etc.
 

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I think you could get by with light 26's on a DCT. If you want to go 27's you'd near a gear reduction. The DCT's are geared high from the factory.

I also don't like running all skinnies. I put 26x10x12 Mudbugs all the way around on the wife's DCT and got stuck in places that shouldn't have been any problem. Turns out the front tires dig a trench, and then the rear don't have anything to bite on and you end up on the skid plate really quickly. I sold the rear 10 wides and replaced them with 12 wides on the rear and the machine is very capable now.

I put SRA secondary in hers which is about an 18% reduction and it will pop a wheelie on pavement with 26's, so at some point I'm going to put her 26's on a 300 project I have and put 27's on her Rancher.

I would suggest 26" skinny/wide Zillas or Mudbugs. Both are lightweight tires. If you run something heavier I wouldn't go over a 25" tire.

Wife's rig has factory Rincon wheels on it. They're aluminum so they're light, and are 12" all the way around to open up the selection of tires. Offset is perfect too. I didn't want something sticking out all around and slinging mud everywhere.
 

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as for things to get for your rancher, since you say you ride in a river, I would suggest buying a top end rebuild kit, a bunch of oil, a service manual on how to tear down a motor and rebuild it and a lot of oil, oil filters and cleaning supplys! , as your going to be sinking this atv before long! play in the water, its a part of life, not a IF< but a WHEN deal!
I also hope you have raised all your vent lines and NOT just a snorkle, all vents need to be raised or you will be sucking water into p[laces you don't want it!

which also, brings up learning top do basic pm
s at a faster rate to TRY and make things last longer for you!

NOW!!~

If you wish to run BIGGER Taller tires, I agree LIGHT 26's will be all your going to be happy with, 27's will alter the stock gearing too much and make your rancher fall way back from your buddy's 850< its already way behind it in stock trim, maybe 40-50 hp less< add taller tires that change your gearing and drop your ranchers HP hitting the ground?? and well??

and note, larger tires will alter handling of the bike , as in if you like to ride trails with speed, your going to feel them, taller and stiffer (heavier) the tire the worse the handling will get
just nature of the beast here!

a HONDA 4x4 atv will never be e BIG tore FAST running atv, GR or not, there too far behind the rest of the sporty 4x4 atv's of other brands in too many places, if your goal was to buy a fast running large tire ATV, sad;t, you bought the wrong brand ATV
might be better off saving up some $$ and upgrading to one that fits your needs better??
NOT bashing here, just honest info here?
 

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Just FYI, a 500 top end from a Foreman will bolt right on that 420 motor. I did that when I did the gear reduction on my wife's Rancher DCT.

Didn't make a HUGE difference, but if you need a top end, might as well get a few extra CC's.

Stick with the stock air filter. You won't get any power at all out of any kind of gimmicky air filter, and it likely won't protect your engine as well as the OEM filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks everyone. Looks like I'll decide between 26" Mudbugs or Zillas. Whats the consensus on the High Lifter 2" kit for the SRA?

mrbb - I bought this new a few years ago, its got 1000 miles on it, and has been sunk a hand full of times. So I'm pretty familiar with the oil change process lol I do have all the vent lines extended. So far, zero problems, no noise, nothing. Actually, the diy snorkel system has been flawless this whole year. My brother has sunk his '15 foot shift about 20 times and its a little noisier but runs fine. 500 top end happening this winter on his.
 

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just so you know adding the lift kit won' t really gain you any ground clearance on the rear axle at all, only thing that will raise that will be taller tires

MY suggestion to you and your brother would be, DO a compression test, and every so many hours test again
MY guess if you sank it that many times(LOL) and have never split the cases and cleaned things the right way,
odds are your down on power as is, from lower that stock compression
its impossible to clean a motor out by flushing, yes some get lucky(you seem to be super lucky, I'd be buying lottery tickets if I was you LOL)
but every time its been sunk I'd bet some residue has been left inside no matter how many oil changes flushes you have done, and its slowly eating way things on you and your brother

but as they say, have to pay to play, so sure you get it?

just saying a compression test is easy, and it will give you a gauge to see how things are going
again NOT bashing on you here, just saying
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll definitely do a compression test, I'm curious now lol What should the compression be on one of these?

Either way, all good, we play hard and have fun. Anything can be repaired
 

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I wouldn't put a lift on a SRA Rancher. You can run 26's with no lift easily, and the lift will gain you zero ground clearance.

Lift on a SRA Rancher doesn't do well with the rear driveshaft, and wears out your ball joints and bearings faster. I have an 08 that had a lift on it when I bought it and I took it off.

Only reason to run a lift is to fit bigger tires, and on these 420's you can run 27's, maybe even 28's and don't have to worry about rubbing. You only get ground clearance from bigger tires.

ETA, just reread and saw you have a DCT. I still wouldn't put a lift on it unless you're going to go 28" plus on the tires (which would require a GR). You can run 27's easily on a 420 with no lift. Waste of money and will add excessive wear to your bike with zero benefit.
 

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Thanks everyone. Looks like I'll decide between 26" Mudbugs or Zillas. Whats the consensus on the High Lifter 2" kit for the SRA?

mrbb - I bought this new a few years ago, its got 1000 miles on it, and has been sunk a hand full of times. So I'm pretty familiar with the oil change process lol I do have all the vent lines extended. So far, zero problems, no noise, nothing. Actually, the diy snorkel system has been flawless this whole year. My brother has sunk his '15 foot shift about 20 times and its a little noisier but runs fine. 500 top end happening this winter on his.
I don't agree with the common theme amongst several here that submerging your wheeler is equal to dirt in the crankcase. I have sunk many bikes in the past with zero problems. Once riding with a friend of mine that was on an XR 350 (many years ago) rode off a drop off where the sand bar ended. The bike went under about 7 feet. Water didn't even get in the fuel tank. We squeezed the water out of the air filter, held the front end up with the spark plug out and cranked it by hand about a hundred times. It fired up and ran poorly for a while until all the water had burned out. We rode straight back to the truck but other than an oil change nothing else was needed.
 

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I've had a buddy sink his Rincon thrice before it started smoking (over a couple of years).

I've sunk mine once, and it started smoking. New top end, started smoking again. Tore it down, cleaned it out, been fine since.

I think a lot of it depends on WHERE you sink it. The Rincon went under in the MS river bottoms. Clay/ fine silt/gumbo.

Mine went under in South Arkansas. Red sandy dirt. Big difference.
 

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I've had a buddy sink his Rincon thrice before it started smoking (over a couple of years).

I've sunk mine once, and it started smoking. New top end, started smoking again. Tore it down, cleaned it out, been fine since.

I think a lot of it depends on WHERE you sink it. The Rincon went under in the MS river bottoms. Clay/ fine silt/gumbo.

Mine went under in South Arkansas. Red sandy dirt. Big difference.
Yep "where" is important. Also it seems most of the real grit enters the vents. I dont see much getting thru the air filter and into the crankcase. If it got sunk in very muddy water I think if it wasn't started and just had the head removed things would be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Crazy, all the times we've sunk em in the river, neither one smokes. Honestly though with a air filter on there, once the air box fills up with water, WATER is all thats been sucked in. No dirt, sand, etc. Shut it off asap, pull it out of the water, tilt it back and let it dry out, and they always fire eventually (and push a couple gallons of water out the exhaust). Then you check the oil and it looks like 2% milk and drive it the rest of the trip. Come home and drain/flush about 3-4 times, spraying brake cleaner down the oil fill hole after each drain to help get the milk out (and letting run for a few minutes after each oil change). I always make sure to really clean the oil filter with brake cleaner until its ready for the final fill/filter. And before you know it, you're flushing oil that looks new.

This has just been our experience. I'll do a compression check soon just for fun. But I really don't think it feels down on power. Maybe we've been lucky. Maybe we haven't, and the compression test will laugh. I'll update you all!
 

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I'll definitely do a compression test, I'm curious now lol What should the compression be on one of these?

Either way, all good, we play hard and have fun. Anything can be repaired
You should read 73 psi within 4-7 seconds of turning a warmed up over with the starter. Readings lower may be caused by: blown cylinder gasket; improper valve adjustment; valve leakage; worn piston ring or cylinder
 

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Thanks everyone. Looks like I'll decide between 26" Mudbugs or Zillas. Whats the consensus on the High Lifter 2" kit for the SRA?

mrbb - I bought this new a few years ago, its got 1000 miles on it, and has been sunk a hand full of times. So I'm pretty familiar with the oil change process lol I do have all the vent lines extended. So far, zero problems, no noise, nothing. Actually, the diy snorkel system has been flawless this whole year. My brother has sunk his '15 foot shift about 20 times and its a little noisier but runs fine. 500 top end happening this winter on his.
I don't agree with the common theme amongst several here that submerging your wheeler is equal to dirt in the crankcase. I have sunk many bikes in the past with zero problems. Once riding with a friend of mine that was on an XR 350 (many years ago) rode off a drop off where the sand bar ended. The bike went under about 7 feet. Water didn't even get in the fuel tank. We squeezed the water out of the air filter, held the front end up with the spark plug out and cranked it by hand about a hundred times. It fired up and ran poorly for a while until all the water had burned out. We rode straight back to the truck but other than an oil change nothing else was needed.
if you think any river lake or ?? water hole is PURE clean water
drive into any of the above, take a clean clear glass and scoop up water and see how clean it is??
its NOT clean, and that same dirty water gets into your motor

CAN you sink a motor and NEVER have any issue's
SURE
but you can also buy a lottery ticket and win the powerball
BUT know what?
more folks loose than win?
thus why I say what I say about sinking motors in water!
its a GAMBLE and ONCE dirt and grit does get into a motor, NO amount of flushing will CLEAN the crap out 100%
its just not possible, as it sticks and binds to things, that JUST flushing doesn't remove
if having grit and dirt or?? in a motor and running it sounds like a good thing to anyone one, then have at it, but over time, that will cause premature failures, just nature of the beast
as is, for all those that like to ride there atv's in deep water, I am NOT bashing here, if you enjoy it, and accept the issue's that could happen, have at it

but there is ZERO denying the fact, having water enter a motor period, even if from a 100% clean source, is NOT a good thing
you can destroy a motor period doing so
hot metal and cool water, DON"T mix
water doesn't expand
you can lock up a motor from water entering it
NO dirt needed period

these are facts, NOT my opinions
water in motors equals BAD! also, means shorter life of things period!

I personally LIKE the fact you guys do what you do, and have said so many times
its creative guys like you's that make for better ways to do things and better parts to become available, you's are FREE on your own dime, product testers for OEM's and aftermarket world LOL
without you's we'd be still riding atv;'s with NO shocks and small knobbier tires! or??

SO< swim them ATV's
just don't deny what is real and what isn't,!
 

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Thanks everyone. Looks like I'll decide between 26" Mudbugs or Zillas. Whats the consensus on the High Lifter 2" kit for the SRA?

mrbb - I bought this new a few years ago, its got 1000 miles on it, and has been sunk a hand full of times. So I'm pretty familiar with the oil change process lol I do have all the vent lines extended. So far, zero problems, no noise, nothing. Actually, the diy snorkel system has been flawless this whole year. My brother has sunk his '15 foot shift about 20 times and its a little noisier but runs fine. 500 top end happening this winter on his.
I don't agree with the common theme amongst several here that submerging your wheeler is equal to dirt in the crankcase. I have sunk many bikes in the past with zero problems. Once riding with a friend of mine that was on an XR 350 (many years ago) rode off a drop off where the sand bar ended. The bike went under about 7 feet. Water didn't even get in the fuel tank. We squeezed the water out of the air filter, held the front end up with the spark plug out and cranked it by hand about a hundred times. It fired up and ran poorly for a while until all the water had burned out. We rode straight back to the truck but other than an oil change nothing else was needed.
if you think any river lake or ?? water hole is PURE clean water
drive into any of the above, take a clean clear glass and scoop up water and see how clean it is??
its NOT clean, and that same dirty water gets into your motor

CAN you sink a motor and NEVER have any issue's
SURE
but you can also buy a lottery ticket and win the powerball
BUT know what?
more folks loose than win?
thus why I say what I say about sinking motors in water!
its a GAMBLE and ONCE dirt and grit does get into a motor, NO amount of flushing will CLEAN the crap out 100%
its just not possible, as it sticks and binds to things, that JUST flushing doesn't remove
if having grit and dirt or?? in a motor and running it sounds like a good thing to anyone one, then have at it, but over time, that will cause premature failures, just nature of the beast
as is, for all those that like to ride there atv's in deep water, I am NOT bashing here, if you enjoy it, and accept the issue's that could happen, have at it

but there is ZERO denying the fact, having water enter a motor period, even if from a 100% clean source, is NOT a good thing
you can destroy a motor period doing so
hot metal and cool water, DON"T mix
water doesn't expand
you can lock up a motor from water entering it
NO dirt needed period

these are facts, NOT my opinions
water in motors equals BAD! also, means shorter life of things period!

I personally LIKE the fact you guys do what you do, and have said so many times
its creative guys like you's that make for better ways to do things and better parts to become available, you's are FREE on your own dime, product testers for OEM's and aftermarket world LOL
without you's we'd be still riding atv;'s with NO shocks and small knobbier tires! or??

SO< swim them ATV's
just don't deny what is real and what isn't,!
I stand corrected!!!LOL
 
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