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Just bought a 04 rancher 400with 4000 miles in excellent shape the guy changed oil every 50hrs he ran casterol gtx in the machine just wondering if I should stick with this oil or go to a synthetic and what oil you'd prefer thanks
 

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i'm not gonna tell you which brand of oil to use ?..but I will tell you this..DO NOT CONFUSE ANY OIL FOR THAT MODEL !!..the AT models use a different brand of oil made just for that engine..as the automatic models use a spec oil for the tranny.
 

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Family has 3 ranchers AT's (04' yellow, 06' blue, 07' red). All stock except 25" tires. The 07' is currently getting a 2" lift and 26" tires (true size is 25.5") for better travel in the woods for trapping season.

Changing oil using Honda products costs me $25 a year, maybe $50 if I run a lot of miles. Hard to believe some will spend $450+ on tires but buy the bargin brand Wal-Mart oil.
 

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I like my 400. I know it doesn't have the power like a grizzly like I would like to have but hey it hasn't let me down yet. I just finished putting all the upgrades on it, I need to update my sig.
 

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hondamatic

i am having some trouble with my 06 m
honda rancher at it wont shift out of first and when i put it in reverse it just spits and spudders can you please help?
 

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My buddy has the 04 and he had error messages like crazy. After a year of coming home in limp mode half the time he figured out it was corroded connection where his winch wires met battery!!! I'd suggest anyone with the classic 04 error messages to start with the battery posts.
 

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2005 Rancher TRX400FA

Thanks for the lesson and good info. I have never had issues with mine until recently. She starts in all kinds of weather even if left 4 weeks or more and just a battery tender. This weekend I tryed to start it and I heard gas draining out a hose near the pull start. There were two dry rot breaks in the hoses and small black valve between the hoses. When ever I turned gas to on position gas would pour out. Any ideas why? I cut the hoses shorter at the breaks and re clamped. I appreciate any thoughts you may have!
WindhamNY
 

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Sounds like your float is stuck on the carb. Put some fuel treatment in it with fresh gas, this is a must with every fillup due to this ethanol junk. Drain your float bowl and let it drain for a while to get the fresh stuff to your carb. Then take something and tap on the bottom of the carb where the float bowl is to try and unstick the float. Fuel treatment, whether Stabil, Seafoam, or some other ethanol treatment is a must when fuel sits longer than a few days. Add it to your gas cans that way the gas is always treated.
 

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Here's another point on oil - oil and water normally don't mix very well, but they will emulsify when pulled through an oil pump rotor. And the Hondamatic tranny really doesn't like to run with salad dressing in its innards. So if you like to play submarine captain with your 400 AT, be sure to check for water intrusion into the oil. If you suspect that water has gotten into the oil, don't take the chance - flush it/change it!
Hi Melsman (or anyone),

What would you recommend is the best way to flush my 400FA engine?

Great Thread!!!

Cheers,

Sev
 

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Great Write Up!

Just a note on Dielectric Grease

I use Dielectric Grease on every connector/every time its taken apart.

If I have it handy I will spray a light coat of quality battery corrosion preventer in both sides of the the connector first (kinda mixes with the grease) then I squish the grease in till it comes out the back side of the connectors (if possible) and them some!

I have done many many connections on my Semi/ATV/Boat ect with no problems whatsoever and it sure helps them keep that dreaded green corrosion at bay. Nothing worse then pulling a connector apart and some of the pins staying in the wrong side, that makes for a bad day!

By the way when joining wires I never use crimp connectors if its permanent connection, just solder and use heat shrink, it saves alot of headaches down the road. Hard to believe many of dealerships still use them but then I guess they get repeat business that way. I kinda go overboard and put silicon around the soldered area (after soldering it) before sliding the shrink tubing over it, then when you heat the shrink tubing it squishes it it out the end and it should be completely waterproof (hopefully)!
 

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We've had 2 of these. '06 (yellow) bought brand new in '06. Sold at very low hours because it never got used.

Now, just last week I bought an '05 (green) and love it. 389 hours and 1000 miles. Runs like brand new. Love it.
 

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Hello guys hope all is well. I registered just to help anyone with the dreaded 6 blink error code and the stuck on a gear doesn't shift to the next gear and when you put it in reverse it sputters. All are related. After searching the web for 4days and no final solution being posted I figured it out! I did a mixture of things. I wont bore you with the stuff I did with no success I'm just getting to the point. The "FIX" I took apart the autoshifter motor cleaned it up and re-lubed the rear resting point and bearing, on page 24-24 in the Note it says (NOTE: The ball nut of the automatic transmission unit can strike the shaft end and lockup. This is just a temporary symptom. In the case, be sure that the motor shaft joint turns smoothly after releasing it) This was the cause of all my problems even after new sensor purchase. I taped on it and moved it, pulled it with pliers. I changed the Angle sensor and installed it a the manual states (keep in mind, when u install it you have to mount it to the small bracket then align with the flat metal rod and turn to around 2oclock softly youll feel like a small spring type tension). After that I did the initial setting procedure outline on page 24-9 on manual and it was fixed. keep in mind, this writing sounds easier than the mission I went on doing electrical diagnosis and all. This is to the point and literally the fix!
 

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Hello guys hope all is well. I registered just to help anyone with the dreaded 6 blink error code and the stuck on a gear doesn't shift to the next gear and when you put it in reverse it sputters. All are related. After searching the web for 4days and no final solution being posted I figured it out! I did a mixture of things. I wont bore you with the stuff I did with no success I'm just getting to the point. The "FIX" I took apart the autoshifter motor cleaned it up and re-lubed the rear resting point and bearing, on page 24-24 in the Note it says (NOTE: The ball nut of the automatic transmission unit can strike the shaft end and lockup. This is just a temporary symptom. In the case, be sure that the motor shaft joint turns smoothly after releasing it) This was the cause of all my problems even after new sensor purchase. I taped on it and moved it, pulled it with pliers. I changed the Angle sensor and installed it a the manual states (keep in mind, when u install it you have to mount it to the small bracket then align with the flat metal rod and turn to around 2oclock softly youll feel like a small spring type tension). After that I did the initial setting procedure outline on page 24-9 on manual and it was fixed. keep in mind, this writing sounds easier than the mission I went on doing electrical diagnosis and all. This is to the point and literally the fix!
No kidding eh, these freakin Hondamatics are such a pain! Glad you figured our your issue. Mine was a code 12 (also stuck in limp mode) did all the testing in the manual, determined it to be a bad shift motor circuit in the ECM. Created a workaround to make it work without needing the ECM. Saved 200$
 

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"Because the 400AT and its Hondamatic transmission have almost twice the number of bearings as most ATV engines, it sounds, for lack of a better term, like a gasoline powered sewing machine" - Melsman

Haha I had a good laugh there.
 

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I just read this and it is an awesome write up with some great info! My problem is exactly as you described, in auto mode the bike bogs down, in ESP I have no issues at all. You mentioned that it is the clutch slipping, so there a fix for that or do I need a new clutch? I'm not sure on the oil that's in there, brand specifically, would changing it out to the way you do your oil possibly help?

Thanks in advance
 

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I just read this and it is an awesome write up with some great info! My problem is exactly as you described, in auto mode the bike bogs down, in ESP I have no issues at all. You mentioned that it is the clutch slipping, so there a fix for that or do I need a new clutch? I'm not sure on the oil that's in there, brand specifically, would changing it out to the way you do your oil possibly help?

Thanks in advance
Clutch will slip if the oil in there is not spec'd JASO-MA or MA2 or says safe for wet clutches. If in doubt, change it, run it a bit, change it again. But damage could already be done. Or oil could be fine and clutch could just be slipping, and needs to be replaced.
 

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I have a 2005 400 AT it has the ES and AUTO option and it more often than not wont show up as in Neutral so there for I cant start it. what causes this?
 
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