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I was going to type "being as I already have taken the petrol tank off I might as well take the CDI off to be on the safe side", then suddenly I thought I've been using the heating gas to remove seized parts and used to the angle grinder to remove the weld, but I don't think that I have drained the carb !!!!!
 

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not that it relates to welding on the bike , just saying , in the old days ( before computers ) we use to use the welding machines to jump start equipment , when the equipment was out in a field where you couldn't get a truck to it or another machine in the area to jump start it from , we would run the welding cables to the batteries --- how I never got myself blown up I don't know , I would never do it again unless I was in a McGiver situation
 

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I was going to type "being as I already have taken the petrol tank off I might as well take the CDI off to be on the safe side", then suddenly I thought I've been using the heating gas to remove seized parts and used to the angle grinder to remove the weld, but I don't think that I have drained the carb !!!!!
Haha.. I always soak a tea towel in water and wrap it around the carb, I never take it off to weld.
 

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That’s the stuff yes. I use the Loctite brand, only because my local bearing supplier stocks it. I should imagine they all do the same job.
 

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not that it relates to welding on the bike , just saying , in the old days ( before computers ) we use to use the welding machines to jump start equipment , when the equipment was out in a field where you couldn't get a truck to it or another machine in the area to jump start it from , we would run the welding cables to the batteries --- how I never got myself blown up I don't know , I would never do it again unless I was in a McGiver situation
Wow! 1st time I've ever heard of that, i believe your right, probobly is a wander you didn't blow yourself up!
 

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Rather than going down the welding the old hub to the shaft route, I decided to buy a new (after market) rear hub. I’ve come to fit it but there seems to be a problem. It’s almost that it isn’t long enough (although it is the same length as the old one).

When I put it on, I can slide it right up to the edge of splines, which means that the castle nut isn’t tightened against it and more than likely the rear wheel will rub against the muffler. The hub isn’t pushing over the lip of the shaft.

I’ve had a look in the parts book and I can’t see any part — such as a spacer — that goes on the shaft before the hub.

What am I missing here / doing wrong?
 

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bb, I don't know what model or year you have but from lookingat your pics I'd think you have a 1st gen TRX300 Fourtrax hub and a 2nd gen TRX300 Fourtrax axle
 

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bb, I don't know what model or year you have but from lookingat your pics I'd think you have a 1st gen TRX300 Fourtrax hub and a 2nd gen TRX300 Fourtrax axle
Thanks for the reply.

The quad (and presumably) the shaft are from a 2000 / 2nd gen TRX300. Are the hubs different on the 1st gen to the second 2nd gen? How so?
The majority of adverts that I see for the hubs for a TRX300FW don't mention the year.

I've attached a pic of the new part next to the one that I've taken off and they look very similar (obviously there is no guarantee that the old that was one there was the right one).

Many thanks,
bb69
 

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the first hubs were shorter splines and stripping was a problem , so the made the splines longer , 88-93 was the short hub , 94 up was a longer splined hub
 

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Thanks for the reply.

Are you definitely sure that the new one in the pic is a 1st gen hub (and that I need a 2nd gen hub)? I want to be sure before I make them take it back.

The one that I bought is supposed to also fit a TRX250 97-12 as well as a TRX420 07-13
New Rear Wheel REPLACEMENT HUB HONDA fits TRX250 97-12 TRX300 FW TRX420 07-13 | eBay

It's a bit strange that the old one that I took off is virtually the same as the new one.
 

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mac102004
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