[toyodaaddict]

I need some help. I'm going through the rear diff on a 2001 250Ex.

I need to replace this seal. The FSM says to use Honda seal driver attachment 07746-0010400. I purchased the tool and it is a little to big around.

The manual clearly says to replace the seal after the bearings. I can tell the seal was originally installed from the side I am trying to install it. I would have to remove/destroy the bearing to install it from the other side. I don't want to drive it in there with a socket because there wont be anyway to keep the seal straight and level, other than just eyeballing it. I wasn't real excited about spending the $40 on the tool and now it doesn't even fit. I really hate to do it but at this point I am tempted to just run the old seal. Anyone know what's up with this?

 

[Eric the red]

I've never used a seal driver in my life.
I have a ton of sockets, I can always find one that's the right size to drive a seal or bearing. They're no harder or different to keep straight than a seal driver.
I'd drive it in with a socket, seals go in pretty easy you can almost push them in by hand.
Err on the side of not driving it in far enough, the bearing will push it the rest of the way in.

 

[toyodaaddict]

I've never used a seal driver in my life.
I have a ton of sockets, I can always find one that's the right size to drive a seal or bearing. They're no harder or different to keep straight than a seal driver.
I'd drive it in with a socket, seals go in pretty easy you can almost push them in by hand.
Err on the side of not driving it in far enough, the bearing will push it the rest of the way in.

I know what your are saying and that's how I generally I deal with seals and bearings also. However in this case the seal is basically being pushed into a tube and needs to stop at the right spot, about 9/16" in. There is no ridge, bearing, or anything for the seal dead end on to ensure it is straight/level. If you look at the honda seal driver in my pics there is a ridge at the top of it that would dead end on the case when the seal reaches its proper position, ensuring it is straight/level. I don't understand why the honda tool that the honda manual calls for doesn't fit. This seal is what keeps the oil in the diff and I would have to pull everything back apart to re do it.

 

[Eric the red]

Reread the last line from my post.
Dont drive it all the way in, let the bearing push it the rest of the way so its in the right spot.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Reread the last line from my post.
Dont drive it all the way in, let the bearing push it the rest of the way so its in the right spot.

The bearing is already installed on the other side. It does not contact the seal. There is about 1/8" between the seal and the bearing. The manual says to install the bearing first and to install the seal from the other side.

On the side in my original picture, the side I am trying to install the seal from, there is a second identical seal that installs flush with the case, not a bearing. Fore some reason Honda put a vent/drain hole between the two seals (you can see it in my first picture). The seal we are discussing keeps the oil in and water out of the diff. The second seal that I mentioned seals the brake drum. I mention this because it seems like you are thinking there is a bearing that installs after the seal. There isn't.

 

[Eric the red]

Right on, I did think the seal was going in before the bearing.
Put the seal in until it's about 1/8 from the bearing then check to see of you can see the vent hole, if you cant drive the seal in further.
You're way over thinking this, it's just a seal and having it hit a slightly different part of the axle is likely a good thing as the axle wears over time.

 

[toyodaaddict]

Right on, I did think the seal was going in before the bearing.
Put the seal in until it's about 1/8 from the bearing then check to see of you can see the vent hole, if you cant drive the seal in further.
You're way over thinking this, it's just a seal and having it hit a slightly different part of the axle is likely a good thing as the axle wears over time.

I probably am over thinking it, I tend to do that. Some times it pays off though.
I'm not so concerned about it riding on a slightly different part of the shaft, I'm worried about it ending up a little crooked. Best idea I have is to use a socket and try to measure to see if its level all the way around.
I'm redoing the whole thing, new axle shaft and everything. All oem honda parts. Going to be a bummer if I have to take it all back apart.