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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Harness finished. I used 1 pass = 1 full revolution of gorilla tape on the bars so the starter housing stays in place. Once you use aftermarket bars you loose the little welded on nub stop. Grips are on with hairspray. It works great. I will mess with final wire routings once my key switch plate comes in. I've started my 84 atc200x build a bit more. Also searching for a beat rincon project. That should keep me busy until 2024...

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Brake lines....how they suck! Nothing beats an oem pre formed brake line. Asr didn't make a correct kit so I made my own with using different lenght yamaha lines since I figured out their part number system.

I bought warrior 350 +2 rear line which = asrblr24. 24" long total. I should not have flap disk offed the 2nd 400ex oem mount...that would of been 1 extra pipe clamp and over with. I had to form the lines which sucks with stainless lines. Most guys use 1 wire tie on a arms but if you use 1 revolution of electrical tape you create a non slippy surface...use 2 wire ties per 1 electrical tape...boom. locked in place for many years.

For the line from oem splitter to master cylinder I used banshee 350 +8 rear line which = asrblr32. 32" line. This will help guys who want stainless lines who want to keep the lines low. I think I had about $95 into it total. Way nicer than asr dual front line set up.

Started designing a real headlight holder...this will be super cool and simple. Not that sheet metal bullshit honda came up with.

Peace out.
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Tonight I put together the throttle. Alot of people forget that these things get sloppy over the years. There is a clear plastic waster that goes between the thumb part and housing of the black bottom. I needed a new one after who knows 20 years? I also did not use my oem 300ex front Master cylinder, the parts loft in the garage provided me with a free 04-13 trx450r one. No mods needed if using oem or wider bars....30.5" or wider over all. I run fly atv bend, great bars but 29.5" wide over all....so we have to massage things.

450r master was filled down on 45 degree angle to clear the thumb throttle housing...why? Because you need to keep the lever on the flat part of the bars that all. Also normally once aftermarket bars are use the little nub that spaces the master cylinder away needs cut or filed down. Lastly if everything's powder coated gloss you have no surface to grab the throttle housing / clamp. 1 pass of gorilla tape takes up the slop, locks the throttle in place since aftermarket bars done have the tiny welded on flat to pin the housing...honda was smart but too smart.

300ex throttle cable fits 400ex carb just fine.

Until next time. Thursday I start headlight assembly.

Peace!
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Banged out headlight. Needs the light stop holes drilled yet and I'll throw into my next powder coating pile. Last brake line mounted and routed but the banjo bolt I need to turn another 1/4" off it so I can get it to seat.
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Squared up front end but needed to order a vintage 24mm craftsman wrench, I couldn't get my impact in to tighten my last upper ball joint nut.

Not much left.

Here comes the 200x project!
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
24MM wrench came in, so I went to tighten my jam nut...that was 21mm...didn't have that one. Off to eBay bought another tool needed. Currently found a spot to run my DCNR plate off the back of my air box but need to turn another spacer. OEM tail light does not work with my XFR grab bar. XFR did not make the tail light holder tab correct. It's too large of diameter, the slot is too wide and the overall center to center spacing is too large. Not sure why companies can't make somthing so simple but most can't seem to copy critical parts either....I think I will cut off their mounts currently and run no tail light. I have a crazy nice OEM set up but not sure how to mount it right now. Not wasting my time on something not really important but it would of been cool.

Grabbing the keyswitch holder tonight from laser cutter. Ordered a bunch of hardware to finish up the machine and start the other build. I am down to the little bitty anal details now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Ignition plate finished. I have qoutes for 5 /10/20 qty runs currently. My laser guy is 40 mins away. It's cool for now but costly in 12mpg truck.

Sadly I'm going to get this dirty, but now I have a template for my electric start atc200x build. Maybe I'll share that build next.
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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Came up with bolt down strap for the top of the headlight mount I made. It will mount from my 3/4" OD bosses to the front of the handle bar clamps. Those will be laser cut also. I send the drawing to my guy. This was if the light gets bashed it will not fold down the steering stem since I have to run factory ones due to the plastic tank. I have extras hidden away but I'll try and make sure anything I made lasts.

Got my rear axle castle nuts in, mounted and figured out which size quick pin was needed. Friday I hope to do the dncr plate stuff. I put one of my 300ex oem tail light grab bar assemblies on ebay. It should sell. Need to move a few items to generate a bit of cash. This machine still is free but one can burn up few hundred bucks quick these days. My rebuilt and revalved shock is still not finished do it's prohibiting me from throwing the chain and case saver on. I'm so close but so far. Still no huge rush. Built it once and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Grabbed a set of 1inch front spacers. Normally I'd never do this but I lost 1inch overall by cutting the oem 400ex ball joints off to install frap removable ones. I figured no one is going to feel bump steer on a 1 inch spacer. Front rims are on and locked in place. Id like to have my rear shop back to finished up the rear chain install and dcnr plate mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
Sunday I got the bright idea to check if the machine turned over since I am on mandatory overtime 50+ hours a week until sept....I wanted to drop if off to get dialed in since I just lost 10 hours and holidays off. It was dead. 6 hours to figure out the fix, two hours to go thru everything again per factory schematics. 2 hours on 3rd day to solder on new solenoid connectors, build a reverse wire ground and install.

Long story short. I connected my clutch switch wires, but I did it deep into the harness and soldered together as a loop incase I needed to go back. That inturn SHOULD NOT of gave me no power to starter. I had to unplug the reverse wire connected at motor, and ground it to frame. I was still dead.....I went nuts than finally thought this fuse is not blown but it's not letting power out either. Bought new fuses and everything worked as it should. Here's my mini ground wire. Shock is back from rebuild and valve job $202, pretty fair I think.

This weekend I'll out it all back together and try and find 93-100 enthonal free fuel.

1st photo is neutral wire, motor turns over with or with out it attached. I left it attached because I didn't want an open connector

2nd photo is reverse wire and my black ground color cable showing and telling what it's doing. I don't have reverse hooked up, never will.

Njoy.

Oh I put more cash on the table by selling and parting 3 more 3wheelers. I have a problem!
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Finished replacing two last bullet connectors rubber covers. This weekend I'll put the shock on. I need to buy some 100 octane ethonal free AV fuel from local airport at $7.25 gallon to mix with local 90 octane ethonal free. I don't run that corn shit in my machines. They can sit for up a year and fuel is still fine. I do drain it out of the carbs after dine riding. I've not had 1 gummed up carb in 8 years after switching over. In my truck I go thru so much I run ethonal.

Project is about over. I don't want to jet or bleed it's brakes. I got better things to do like work 60 hours a week.
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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Shocks on, nitrogen line routed and perfect lenght. Need to put the Shock bolts on next time I play with it. Rear grab bar needs taillight cut off. I sold mine due to bad fitment. Dcnr plate mounted but need a handful of 1/4" washers yet. Harness is 100% fixed up. It's ready to align front end and get oil and gas. 60hour work weeks are killing me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I recently have been told mandatory overtime. This week until September is 530am to 330pm.

Didn't get the chain like I wanted but did mess with a 200x project a bit and had a Friday ride.

Goal this week is get chain on and get 1/4" stainless washers. If that goes right might stop a a local dealer for oil...that might mean I fire it up to see how it runs, but I'd rather outscore that so I can focus on yard work right now.

I hand build all my atvs because if I ride 15-20 miles 1 way it must make it back.

Stay tuned
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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Finally scored 1/4" stainless washers at a semi local hardware store so I bought all 21 they had. Now my dcnr plate is mounted to air box. You can see the aluminum plate I plasma cut so the plate stays in place and no deformed when rocks hit it. Maybe tomorrow I'll do the chain. Out of time tonight.
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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
As it goes with this atv chain won't fit. Currently have stock gearing nd and I'm half link off. That's due yo longer arm and lowering the rear 1inch overall. Since all I do is hill climb or trail ride I wanted to stay with 13-38 sprockets. I'll run between 18s and 21s. I could throw my 39t on from my trx250r stuff but 1 ride and it's stretched plus unless I'm running 22s I'd rather not go higher. Looks like I'll order a 37t tomorrow and save my 38 for my 200x build (also going to run 300ex rear end)

Quads giving me a fight until very end.
 
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