[jeff.rausa]

Hi,
Working on this for a friend. His son rode it into a pond and since then there's no fire. He replaced the cdi box, and that didn't help so he brought it to me. I replaced the coil, just because he already bought it, replaced the stator and the pulse generator. Still no fire. I have 12 volts through the ignition switch and kill switch, but if I put my test light across the Green and blue/yellow at the coil and turn it over, I have nothing. Any help is greatly appreciated.

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[mrbb]

first off welcome to the site
next is, was the motor sunk, ?? DID water get in it?
IF so, you could have serious motor damage, from jumped timing, to damaged cylinders to rings, to??
you need to tell us a little more about what happened when it went into this POND! before your going to get honest answers here!

DO< you have enough compression to actually start it?? IF all was good, as crap in motors can ruin compression REAL fast!

and don't take this as me being smug, AS I have NO clue what you know or don't at this point
but to get better help, you need to help us with more info here!

 

[retro]

Does the neutral light come on when you turn the key? Got a copy of the FSM Yet? Foreman or Rancher... what year is it?

Welcome to the forums!

 

[mrbb]

OK< just to be clear I gave the above post and info, I thought I read NO fire,(brain fart on an old guy I guess)
and not the, NO spark, you asked about!
so sorry if I gave info you already have and know!
the jumping time, might still however be a issue for you on spark!

also make sure all grounds are clean and solid!

 

[jeff.rausa]

first off welcome to the site
next is, was the motor sunk, ?? DID water get in it?
IF so, you could have serious motor damage, from jumped timing, to damaged cylinders to rings, to??
you need to tell us a little more about what happened when it went into this POND! before your going to get honest answers here!

DO< you have enough compression to actually start it?? IF all was good, as crap in motors can ruin compression REAL fast!

and don't take this as me being smug, AS I have NO clue what you know or don't at this point
but to get better help, you need to help us with more info here!

No water in the motor. Oil looked good when I drained it. And it's a foreman. Good compression.

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[jeff.rausa]

Does the neutral light come on when you turn the key? Got a copy of the FSM Yet? Foreman or Rancher... what year is it?

Welcome to the forums!

Neutral light is good. What is fsm?

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[jeff.rausa]

OK< just to be clear I gave the above post and info, I thought I read NO fire,(brain fart on an old guy I guess)
and not the, NO spark, you asked about!
so sorry if I gave info you already have and know!
the jumping time, might still however be a issue for you on spark!

also make sure all grounds are clean and solid!

As far as jumping time, I'm pretty sure the mechanical time is good. As far as electrical timing; I know nothing about how to go about checking that. Especially with no spark.

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[Black0ut]

Does the neutral light come on when you turn the key? Got a copy of the FSM Yet? Foreman or Rancher... what year is it?

Welcome to the forums!

Neutral light is good. What is fsm?

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Factory service manual

 

[retro]

Does the neutral light come on when you turn the key? Got a copy of the FSM Yet? Foreman or Rancher... what year is it?

Welcome to the forums!

Neutral light is good. What is fsm?

Click on the link and get a copy, you'll need the FSM to diagnose and troubleshoot the bike. We can't help ya much unless ya share the year and model with us....

 

[jeff.rausa]

Does the neutral light come on when you turn the key? Got a copy of the FSM Yet? Foreman or Rancher... what year is it?

Welcome to the forums!

Neutral light is good. What is fsm?

Click on the link and get a copy, you'll need the FSM to diagnose and troubleshoot the bike. We can't help ya much unless ya share the year and model with us....

Sweet thank you. And I'm pretty sure it's a foreman. Most of the plastics were off of it when they brought it to me. It says trx400fw on the frame, and it's a 1999.

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[retro]

I think the neutral/reverse switch on the motor is the first thing I would check, since those are an all-in-one switch I think? If water got into that switch there could be continuity through the reverse switch side to ground, even if the shifter is in neutral and the neutral light is on... theoretically.

Next up check the yellow/yellow & yellow/green on the AC sensor line in case the CDI isn't getting a signal from the alternator that the motor is cranking over:

If those all check out fine I'd start resistance testing everything. Let us know what shakes out if ya can...?

 

[jeff.rausa]

I think the neutral/reverse switch on the motor is the first thing I would check, since those are an all-in-one switch I think? If water got into that switch there could be continuity through the reverse switch side to ground, even if the shifter is in neutral and the neutral light is on... theoretically.

Next up check the yellow/yellow & yellow/green on the AC sensor line in case the CDI isn't getting a signal from the alternator that the motor is cranking over:

If those all check out fine I'd start resistance testing everything. Let us know what shakes out if ya can...?

All good stuff. Thank you, I'll check it out tonight.

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[jeff.rausa]

Ok so it failed the AC line test. I have continuity between the green on the 5p connector's and the yellow on the 4p connector. If I unplug the rectifier I lose continuity. So is the rectifier bad? Also would that keep it from sparking? I thought the rectifier was only for charging.

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[retro]

Lets back up then come back to this...?

Are the CDI, Stator & Pulse generator OEM Honda parts?

 

[jeff.rausa]

Lets back up then come back to this...?

Are the CDI, Stator & Pulse generator OEM Honda parts?

The stator is not. The pulse generator is the original one, it tested good so I put it back on. I recently put the original CDI back on it too because the replacement made no difference.
But what about AC sensor line reading to ground until I unplug the rectifier? It's the original rectifier.

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[jeff.rausa]

Lets back up then come back to this...?

Are the CDI, Stator & Pulse generator OEM Honda parts?

The stator is not. The pulse generator is the original one, it tested good so I put it back on. I recently put the original CDI back on it too because the replacement made no difference.
But what about AC sensor line reading to ground until I unplug the rectifier? It's the original rectifier.

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Also, the stator ohms out right. I don't have a peak voltage adapter to check that though.

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[retro]

But what about AC sensor line reading to ground until I unplug the rectifier? It's the original rectifier.

That is why I wanted to come back to this... it sounds like you were testing continuity of the wires in the harness only... doesn't make any sense does it..? This may be the test you were doing:

In that case the harness is tested before beginning to troubleshoot anything else.

Anyway, lets back up a bit. You said you get a neutral light and a reverse light correct? When the trans is in neutral the reverse switch should read open (infinite). Unplug it and verify if you haven't yet... That is a combo switch I think, so its important to check it out good in case water got in it. If it did (and reverse switch has continuity through water to ground) the CDI kills the ignition during starter motor cranking. Also related to this area of testing is the diode back near the battery and fuses area. Pull that diode out and check for continuity both ways by swapping your ohm meter leads. If that diode is good it should have continuity in one direction of current flow only. Section 19, page 8 covers the diode test.

Let us know if this all checks out...