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Discussion Starter #141 (Edited)
I'm debating whether or not to sell off my spare axles. This thread hasn't helped. On one hand I think I could get good money for them but I sure as hell don't want to be rolling the dice for some unknown ones down the road.
How much $$$$? Haha.

when your done with that, you can come over and put this 1999 trx450s back together !..lol.
Sounds like a plan. Still got a good bit I want to do to this ole '88 too, after the front end. Fuel meter needs replacing, I think the fan control unit is also going bad (fan and oil light come on erratically), and left front fender needs repairing.
most times the sending unit in the tank goes out. good luck finding one !!!...lol. as for the fan and oil light ?, most times the oil temp sensor is failing..but still could be the fan control unit ?. as for the fender work ?, well..they can be fixed...question is..how much time are you willing to spend doing it ?..lol.
The fuel sending unit ohm'ed out good per the service manual procedure and the wiring looks good, so that's why I'm thinking it's the gauge/meter. Although I haven't removed the oil sending unit and checked it per the manual yet, I did check it at a couple different temps and it the resistance is a bit high if anything but in the ballpark. Would a bad one cause an erratic oil light and the fan to come on? It doesn't do it all of the time, just sometimes.

You're plastics look great! But I'll probably stitch the fender up with zip ties most likely. I mostly just want to stop it from getting worse or sheering off entirely.
 

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Discussion Starter #142 (Edited)
Man, those look good Shadetree! Now I want to pull my rear fenders off and try to do something similar.

I may have a good sending unit. I have two spares but I stepped on one and mangled it a bit :) I have a spare meter/gauge too. Between the axles and these, how much money you looking to spend today? LOL
What would you need out of the axles and meter/gauge? I'd certainly be interested in them, if you want to part with them.
 

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here's what they looked like on the bottom side !..lol. I spent many..many hours making them look new on the topside, did not care what they looked like on the bottom..lol.
This must have been before I signed up here. There a thread on what you did to get those cleaned up like that? I'm sure it required wet sanding and polishing, but curious on the underside support. Looks like screw heads, but obviously doesn't penetrate the top of the fenders.

Looks great though.
 

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I've got a 1988 TRX350D that is making a popping noise in the front end. I jacked it up this afternoon and it's silent when turning the handlebars back and forth. But when I rotate the wheels it pops a little. When driving it straight forward it sometimes makes a slight pop and then stops. But when driving it forward with the wheels turned it is loud and constant. What are some common failure points on these that may cause this and can you still purchase new front end parts for them?

@KoolBreeze, sending you a PM. Found a guy selling/parting an 87.
 

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here's what they looked like on the bottom side !..lol. I spent many..many hours making them look new on the topside, did not care what they looked like on the bottom..lol.
This must have been before I signed up here. There a thread on what you did to get those cleaned up like that? I'm sure it required wet sanding and polishing, but curious on the underside support. Looks like screw heads, but obviously doesn't penetrate the top of the fenders.

Looks great though.
yeah, it was before you signed up here I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
Got the front end pulled today. The king pin bearings on the right side were shot. I think that is where some of the grinding noises I was hearing while twisting the handle bars back and forth was coming from. The knuckle bearing on the right side also has a lot slack in it but I have not cleaned it to thoroughly inspect it yet. I'm just going to replace all of the king pin bearings and both knuckle bearings. I also pulled the differential but have not split it yet. The pinion seal was leaking and the swing arm tube had a little oil in it. Looks like the lip of the seal wore a grove in the drive shaft sealing surface that is probably 1/16th of an inch deep, which allowed oil to get past. Fortunately no water or dirt had gotten into the tube. In fact all of the axle tubes are very clean, rust and grime free, on the interior. The u-joint on the shaft also has a tad of slack but not much. Still going to need a new/better shaft though due to grove. Any of guys have a good one you'd part with?

Also dropped the swing arm and those bearings look ok, but I haven't cleaned them yet.

The CV axle on the right side is also worn pretty bad. Could be the source of some of the popping when rolling the bike.

I'm going to split the diff as soon as I get a chance and check it out as best I can. Do you guys recommend going through procedure of checking out the clutch packs, torque on them and etc like listed in the manual? Looks like I'll need a special tool to do check the torque, unless you guys have some other way of doing it. I suppose I could make a couple using an old axle, some cheap sockets, if I had a welder. Sure do hope all of the gears are in decent shape, that’s my main concern.

By the way, I had a great experience with Power Sports Nation's customer service yesterday. I had ordered a FCU along with some other stuff from them and the FCU did not work. I gave them a call, they apologized and refunded my money within a couple hours. You can't ask for any better than that. No run around, no ship it back we'll check it and get back to you sometime, or any other nonsense. Sure I'd rather had a good FCU but that's how it goes with used parts sometimes.
 

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Got the front end pulled today. The king pin bearings on the right side were shot. I think that is where some of the grinding noises I was hearing while twisting the handle bars back and forth was coming from. The knuckle bearing on the right side also has a lot slack in it but I have not cleaned it to thoroughly inspect it yet. I'm just going to replace all of the king pin bearings and both knuckle bearings. I also pulled the differential but have not split it yet. The pinion seal was leaking and the swing arm tube had a little oil in it. Looks like the lip of the seal wore a grove in the drive shaft sealing surface that is probably 1/16th of an inch deep, which allowed oil to get past. Fortunately no water or dirt had gotten into the tube. In fact all of the axle tubes are very clean, rust and grime free, on the interior. The u-joint on the shaft also has a tad of slack but not much. Still going to need a new/better shaft though due to grove. Any of guys have a good one you'd part with?

Also dropped the swing arm and those bearings look ok, but I haven't cleaned them yet.

The CV axle on the right side is also worn pretty bad. Could be the source of some of the popping when rolling the bike.

I'm going to split the diff as soon as I get a chance and check it out as best I can. Do you guys recommend going through procedure of checking out the clutch packs, torque on them and etc like listed in the manual? Looks like I'll need a special tool to do check the torque, unless you guys have some other way of doing it. I suppose I could make a couple using an old axle, some cheap sockets, if I had a welder. Sure do hope all of the gears are in decent shape, that’s my main concern.

By the way, I had a great experience with Power Sports Nation's customer service yesterday. I had ordered a FCU along with some other stuff from them and the FCU did not work. I gave them a call, they apologized and refunded my money within a couple hours. You can't ask for any better than that. No run around, no ship it back we'll check it and get back to you sometime, or any other nonsense. Sure I'd rather had a good FCU but that's how it goes with used parts sometimes.
don't bother with the front clutch in the diff. replace the axle, run it !. don't know if I have a spare front drive shaft/u-joint ?, but if I do ?, I would not part with it..lol. PSN may have one ?.
 

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I'm going to split the diff as soon as I get a chance and check it out as best I can. Do you guys recommend going through procedure of checking out the clutch packs, torque on them and etc like listed in the manual? Looks like I'll need a special tool to do check the torque, unless you guys have some other way of doing it. I suppose I could make a couple using an old axle, some cheap sockets, if I had a welder. Sure do hope all of the gears are in decent shape, that’s my main concern.
You don't need the special tool they refer to in the manual, just put the axles into the diff and hold one still (a vise works for this, or big channelocks) while you turn the other. The slip torque spec might be in the manual... if not, try to shim up the belleville spring so you get about 8 ft lbs of slip torque. You can estimate this... no need for a torque wrench.

Use limited slip gear oil (or include an additive) and soak those discs good in it before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
You don't need the special tool they refer to in the manual, just put the axles into the diff and hold one still (a vise works for this, or big channelocks) while you turn the other. The slip torque spec might be in the manual... if not, try to shim up the belleville spring so you get about 8 ft lbs of slip torque. You can estimate this... no need for a torque wrench.

Use limited slip gear oil (or include an additive) and soak those discs good in it before reassembly.
Yes, the procedure in the manual says to remove one of the clutch packs, check the torque (14 - 18 ft-lb), reinstall the clutch pack that was removed and repeat the procedure for the other one. I have torque wrenches but no way of connecting them to the diff, without making, rigging up, or buying something.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
don't bother with the front clutch in the diff. replace the axle, run it !. don't know if I have a spare front drive shaft/u-joint ?, but if I do ?, I would not part with it..lol. PSN may have one ?.
Yeah, they do have one. I’ll probably grab one from them. Just thought some of you guys might also one you didn’t need.
 

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don't bother with the front clutch in the diff. replace the axle, run it !. don't know if I have a spare front drive shaft/u-joint ?, but if I do ?, I would not part with it..lol. PSN may have one ?.
Yeah, they do have one. I’ll probably grab one from them. Just thought some of you guys might also one you didn’t need.
yeah...i'm not even sure I have a spare drive shaft ??..if I do/did ?, I would not part with it, these parts are getting harder and harder to locate !. worse comes to worse , if you can't find one ?, you can always run a bead of wire weld around the shaft, then grind it back down ?, I dont know how well that would work ?..seeing how it runs in the seal ?, it would have to be very smooth for sure !.
 

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That slip torque spec sounds a bit high for paper-faced clutch discs. Hopefully its not a misprint in the manual...? anyway, the point is that you can use the ends of the axles rather than the special tool. Thats all I've ever used on them.

PSN is having another sale this weekend, so now might be a good time to order up any remaining parts ya need. You'll get 33% off your entire order if buying three parts or more, by entering 3PARTS coupon code during checkout. Gotta be done before midnight CST.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
That slip torque spec sounds a bit high for paper-faced clutch discs. Hopefully its not a misprint in the manual...? anyway, the point is that you can use the ends of the axles rather than the special tool. Thats all I've ever used on them.

PSN is having another sale this weekend, so now might be a good time to order up any remaining parts ya need. You'll get 33% off your entire order if buying three parts or more, by entering 3PARTS coupon code during checkout. Gotta be done before midnight CST.
Thanks for the heads up on the sale.

Never can tell about the manual but hopefully it's correct. Speaking of the manual, it also says to set the right swingarm pivot bolt to 12 - 14 ft lb, which is a good but more than I've seen posted here in other threads. But I assume that is correct, as it lists that in several different places for both swingarms.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
I have spare drive shafts if it comes to that. I wasn't even going to bother trying to sell them on ebay. They seem plentiful (cheap).
Up to you Duck, if your shaft's sealing surface, splines and joint are in good condition, then I'd just assume buy it from you as anywhere else. But if you'd like to hang on to it then that's fine too. There are several on Ebay and PSN also.
 

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Never can tell about the manual but hopefully it's correct. Speaking of the manual, it also says to set the right swingarm pivot bolt to 12 - 14 ft lb, which is a good but more than I've seen posted here in other threads. But I assume that is correct, as it lists that in several different places for both swingarms.
Honda engineers should have known better, but I've seen them make claims far crazier than that one! Those swingarm bearings are tapered rollers. That means they require 0 lash + a very small preload = about 25 inch lbs max to allow for slight frame flex/spreading. In other words, adjust them to 0 then snug the bolt up by hand a bit like you'd do on front wheel bearings, on a '55 chevy.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
Never can tell about the manual but hopefully it's correct. Speaking of the manual, it also says to set the right swingarm pivot bolt to 12 - 14 ft lb, which is a good but more than I've seen posted here in other threads. But I assume that is correct, as it lists that in several different places for both swingarms.
Honda engineers should have known better, but I've seen them make claims far crazier than that one! Those swingarm bearings are tapered rollers. That means they require 0 lash + a very small preload = about 25 inch lbs max to allow for slight frame flex/spreading. In other words, adjust them to 0 then snug the bolt up by hand a bit like you'd do on front wheel bearings, on a '55 chevy.
Dang! Probably need to reset it for the ones rear swingarm then, because I followed the manual on it. But thanks for the heads up as those bearings aren't cheap. I use to pack the front hub bearings on my old 4x4 pickups every year. They also had the tapered roller bearings and I just did by feel like you suggest. Same way on my trailer hubs.
 
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