TRX350D Front End

13665 Views 239 Replies 7 Participants Last post by KoolBreeze, Apr 20, 2019

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · Dec 16, 2018

I've got a 1988 TRX350D that is making a popping noise in the front end. I jacked it up this afternoon and it's silent when turning the handlebars back and forth. But when I rotate the wheels it pops a little. When driving it straight forward it sometimes makes a slight pop and then stops. But when driving it forward with the wheels turned it is loud and constant. What are some common failure points on these that may cause this and can you still purchase new front end parts for them?

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retro

· #61 · Feb 19, 2019

There is no blockage between the left & right side in the TRX350 swingarms. Once you remove either the left or right side bearing race and cap you can use a long rod (that china made breaker bar that a well-intentioned relative got ya for christmas works perfect here

) and a big hammer to drive out the opposite side race and cap. If its rusted real bad use a torch and heat it up cherry red before driving them out. You can clean the swingarm up and repaint it while you are waiting on replacement bearings.

I think I have a swingarm here somewhere in my stash if you need one of those... if so, its yours for the shipping cost to your place. I have some old bearings too, but I'm sure those are worn out or I would have put them to work in something by now..? I'll see if I can find them just in case...

You can fix that swingarm boot with some 3M Super-fast Urethane Windshield sealer (part # 08609 in the big tube, you can buy it in smaller quantities too, I think). I use that stuff for a lot of rubber repairs and to improve the strength/life of some parts. Just prep the rubber boot good using a small wire brush and Lacquer thinner, then skim coat it with the 3M using one of your fingers. Allow it to cure for 48 hours and run it... easy fix.

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retro

· #62 · Feb 19, 2019

Here ya go... a couple examples of the strength and durability of 3M urethane sealer on hard to find TRX350D parts:

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...scrap-heap-rescue-restoration.html#post887137

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/foru...rap-heap-rescue-restoration-2.html#post902042

Reactions: 2

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #63 · Feb 20, 2019 (Edited)

shadetree said:
KoolBreeze said:

I forgot the photos.

Click to expand...

right rear swing arm bearing race and bearing is gone !. you will need to attack this from the left rear side just like I said above ^^^, you will need to make a hole in the inside where the drive shaft goes, put the drill bit all the way through the left rear bearing hole in swing arm, all the way until the bit hits the inside of the swing arm, drill it, make a hole, take a small long bar, whack the race out.

Yeah, the bearing fell out and apart when I took the swingarm off. Thankfully though, the tube is hollow and the only thing between the left and right bearings and races are the tin cups. The tube is open from the drive shaft through to the right side tin cup. Hopefully the race will come out without too much trouble.

The bearing in the left axle tube is being a pain and isn't wanting to drive out. Probably going to have to take it somewhere and see if it can be pressed out or get some heat on it or both. Or buy a Harbor Freight press.

The joint on the drive shaft also has just a tad of slack in it and of course the shafts are discontinued. Anybody ever replaced the joints in them successfully?

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #64 · Feb 20, 2019

retro said:
There is no blockage between the left & right side in the TRX350 swingarms. Once you remove either the left or right side bearing race and cap you can use a long rod (that china made breaker bar that a well-intentioned relative got ya for christmas works perfect here ) and a big hammer to drive out the opposite side race and cap. If its rusted real bad use a torch and heat it up cherry red before driving them out. You can clean the swingarm up and repaint it while you are waiting on replacement bearings.

I think I have a swingarm here somewhere in my stash if you need one of those... if so, its yours for the shipping cost to your place. I have some old bearings too, but I'm sure those are worn out or I would have put them to work in something by now..? I'll see if I can find them just in case...

You can fix that swingarm boot with some 3M Super-fast Urethane Windshield sealer (part # 08609 in the big tube, you can buy it in smaller quantities too, I think). I use that stuff for a lot of rubber repairs and to improve the strength/life of some parts. Just prep the rubber boot good using a small wire brush and Lacquer thinner, then skim coat it with the 3M using one of your fingers. Allow it to cure for 48 hours and run it... easy fix.

That's awesome info retro. I appreciate it very much. Did not know repairing the boot was possible. It's decent shape aside from the tear.

I also appreciate the offer on the swingarm and bearings. I think I can get this one fixed up though but please hang on to it just in case. You guys are awesome!

I don't have an acetylene torch but I do have a MAP gas one. I might try that or phone a friend with a real torch.

One of these days I'm going to rich and when something breaks, I'll just drive a new one under it. haha!

shadetree

· #65 · Feb 20, 2019

if the left is giving ya trouble ?, just hammer it out from the right rear side, work the bar around the race, it will pop out. oh..and I wasn't 100% sure if the tube was solid or hollow ?, been a few sinse i've worked on one..lol.

shadetree

· #66 · Feb 20, 2019

KoolBreeze said:
shadetree said:

KoolBreeze said:

I forgot the photos.

Click to expand...

right rear swing arm bearing race and bearing is gone !. you will need to attack this from the left rear side just like I said above ^^^, you will need to make a hole in the inside where the drive shaft goes, put the drill bit all the way through the left rear bearing hole in swing arm, all the way until the bit hits the inside of the swing arm, drill it, make a hole, take a small long bar, whack the race out.

Click to expand...

Yeah, the bearing fell out and apart when I took the swingarm off. Thankfully though, the tube is hollow and the only thing between the left and right bearings and races are the tin cups. The tube is open from the drive shaft through to the right side tin cup. Hopefully the race will come out without too much trouble.

The bearing in the left axle tube is being a pain and isn't wanting to drive out. Probably going to have to take it somewhere and see if it can be pressed out or get some heat on it or both. Or buy a Harbor Freight press.

The joint on the drive shaft also has just a tad of slack in it and of course the shafts are discontinued. Anybody ever replaced the joints in them successfully?

rear drive shaft u-joint ?, I just replace the whole drive shaft, should be a lot of these on ebay.

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #67 · Feb 20, 2019

shadetree said:
KoolBreeze said:

shadetree said:

right rear swing arm bearing race and bearing is gone !. you will need to attack this from the left rear side just like I said above ^^^, you will need to make a hole in the inside where the drive shaft goes, put the drill bit all the way through the left rear bearing hole in swing arm, all the way until the bit hits the inside of the swing arm, drill it, make a hole, take a small long bar, whack the race out.

Click to expand...

Yeah, the bearing fell out and apart when I took the swingarm off. Thankfully though, the tube is hollow and the only thing between the left and right bearings and races are the tin cups. The tube is open from the drive shaft through to the right side tin cup. Hopefully the race will come out without too much trouble.

The bearing in the left axle tube is being a pain and isn't wanting to drive out. Probably going to have to take it somewhere and see if it can be pressed out or get some heat on it or both. Or buy a Harbor Freight press.

The joint on the drive shaft also has just a tad of slack in it and of course the shafts are discontinued. Anybody ever replaced the joints in them successfully?

Click to expand...

rear drive shaft u-joint ?, I just replace the whole drive shaft, should be a lot of these on ebay.

Yes, the joint has a tad of slack, not much, just a tad. But while cleaning it I also noticed there are slight grooves worn into the sealing surface on the end that inserts into the final drive over through the pinion seal. So that's probably another reason why the pinion bearing is gone.

Surprises me that rubber seals wear grooves in these steel parts. So, I guess I'll try and find a shaft also. Trouble is finding one that is good.

shadetree

· #68 · Feb 20, 2019

yep, rubber wears when spinning around steel, hard to believe but it does !

shadetree

· #69 · Feb 20, 2019

pick one ---->https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...13&_nkw=1989+trx350+rear+drive+shaft&_sacat=0 .

retro

· #70 · Feb 20, 2019

PSN probably has a few driveshafts too. Compare prices maybe...? Rubber seals will wear steel hubs fast unless you pack the seal lips full of grease when you install them. Then they don't wear at all, and they'll usually last for many decades.

I'll try to find those bearings tomorrow and take some measurements from them. Maybe we can find some new ones that'll interchange.

Reactions: 1

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #71 · Feb 20, 2019 (Edited)

retro said:
PSN probably has a few driveshafts too. Compare prices maybe...? Rubber seals will wear steel hubs fast unless you pack the seal lips full of grease when you install them. Then they don't wear at all, and they'll usually last for many decades.

I'll try to find those bearings tomorrow and take some measurements from them. Maybe we can find some new ones that'll interchange.

Thanks for the tip on filling the seal lips with grease.

The bearings are still available, albeit a little pricey. It's the seals that aren't listed even though they are shown in the diagrams. But looking at photos I've found for the bearing part numbers, the package appears to come with cup, race, bearing and seal all in one.

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retro

· #72 · Feb 20, 2019

Ya, the old set I have has the seal integrated with the bearing too. I think the 87 & up models all came that way. You can reseal those o-rings on the swingarm and axle tubes with any decent automotive silicone gasket-maker-in-a-tube, so don't worry too much about sourcing those. It sounds like you got about everything covered, so far..?

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #73 · Feb 20, 2019

retro said:
Ya, the old set I have has the seal integrated with the bearing too. I think the 87 & up models all came that way. You can reseal those o-rings on the swingarm and axle tubes with any decent automotive silicone gasket-maker-in-a-tube, so don't worry too much about sourcing those. It sounds like you got about everything covered, so far..?

Yes, I think so, thanks to a lot of hand holding from you guys.

Just got to get the parts ordered and get it done.

Reactions: 1

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #74 · Feb 22, 2019

The double bearing that is in the axle tube on the left side was a royal pain in the rear to remove. It was seized in the tube and just refused to let go. Ultimately, I rigged up a homemade press using a bolt, nut, a couple bearing/seal driver bushings, a big washer and a hole saw. I put the ½” impact on it and ran it as tight as it would go and it wouldn’t budge. Then I decided I’d add a little heat and went to find my propane torch. While looking for the torch I heard it pop and then I was able to zip it on out.

How do you guys install those? It’s so thick, I'm not sure I can drive it in without damaging it. After I clean the surfaces up a little with emery cloth I can probably get it back in the same way I go it out though.

I got the swingarm bearings out with a similar contraption but they were a breeze in comparison.

shadetree

· #75 · Feb 22, 2019

KoolBreeze said:
The double bearing that is in the axle tube on the left side was a royal pain in the rear to remove. It was seized in the tube and just refused to let go. Ultimately, I rigged up a homemade press using a bolt, nut, a couple bearing/seal driver bushings, a big washer and a hole saw. I put the ½” impact on it and ran it as tight as it would go and it wouldn’t budge. Then I decided I’d add a little heat and went to find my propane torch. While looking for the torch I heard it pop and then I was able to zip it on out.

How do you guys install those? It’s so thick, I'm not sure I can drive it in without damaging it. After I clean the surfaces up a little with emery cloth I can probably get it back in the same way I go it out though.

I got the swingarm bearings out with a similar contraption but they were a breeze in comparison.

never had trouble removing that bearing ?, I just pull the axle tube, stick a big ole pipe or whatever I got handy down in there from the other end, hammer them out. the trick is to not keep pounding on one side of the bearing down in there !. if you do ?, you will wedge it, and it will fight you all the way !. as for putting them back in ?, they are easy, clean the end up, grease the tube, grease around bearing, tap it back down in, while going all around the edge, try to tap it down in straight !. then install oil seal, pretty easy from my times with them.

shadetree

· #76 · Feb 22, 2019

don't forget..or loose the axle bearing stopper !!!, this must be slid back onto the axle before you install bearings !!!!!. it slides back onto the axle facing only one way !!.

KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #77 · Feb 22, 2019

shadetree said:
don't forget..or loose the axle bearing stopper !!!, this must be slid back onto the axle before you install bearings !!!!!. it slides back onto the axle facing only one way !!.

The bearing on mine was seized in there pretty good. It did not want to come out.

Yeah, will try not to forget the stop. Still not sure what it's purpose is though. Looks like I can install the axle, then the slide the stop on it, then install the tube (housing) with the bearing already installed in it, or am I missing something?

shadetree

· #78 · Feb 22, 2019

KoolBreeze said:
shadetree said:

don't forget..or loose the axle bearing stopper !!!, this must be slid back onto the axle before you install bearings !!!!!. it slides back onto the axle facing only one way !!.

Click to expand...

The bearing on mine was seized in there pretty good. It did not want to come out.

Yeah, will try not to forget the stop. Still not sure what it's purpose is though. Looks like I can install the axle, then the slide the stop on it, then install the tube (housing) with the bearing already installed in it, or am I missing something?

your are correct on how it goes back together. axle in first, slide bearing stopper on axle, tapered side faces in when on axle, flat side outwards, slide axle tube on, bearing on inside of tube sits up against stopper, put oil seal in ( tap it in last ), install hub, mount wheel, call it a day.

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KoolBreeze

Discussion Starter · #79 · Feb 22, 2019 (Edited)

shadetree said:
slide bearing stopper on axle, tapered side faces in when on axle, flat side outwards

Are you sure about that? The service manual seems to suggest the stopper faces in the opposite direction, unless I'm misreading something?

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Jeepwm69

· #80 · Feb 22, 2019

That's weird. Every Honda I've ever worked on has the stopper with the flat side towards the bearing, but that page definitely says to do it the other way. The 350 rears I've torn down have all had the flat side facing the bearing, and they had never been apart since the factory. Wonder if that's a misprint.

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