[dizzel]

Hi all I am new to the forums and new to Honda atv's as well.
I just picked up an 03 trx350fm (fourtrax in Canada rancher in US?) and am having a fuel in oil issue. I just drained about a third of a liter out of the crankcase and it's runny and smells of a rich fuel mix. The oil level has gone up I think in the last couple days and is way over the full mark now. I have stopped riding it for now.

Is this a common problem? There is another Honda in my Mec's shop right now with the same issue. Engine runs just fine but the level is way up there.

I'm thinking I've got to remove the carb and check the needle valve. Does this model have an electric fuel pump?
Carb isn't leaking on the outside by the way.
Thanks.
Diz

 

[Helmut]

Welcome to the forums. Yes, pull the carb and make sure the float valve is shutting fuel off to the bowl when full. No electric fuel pump on that model.

 

[shadetree]

yep..your float is sticking..and over filling your carb bowl..and what don't drain out your over flow tube..flows down into your intake valve..then on down to your lower part of your engine..sooo..check your float for sticking open..it's always a good idea to turn your fuel off when done ridding..this surely keeps this from happening ever again.

 

[dizzel]

SO I pulled the carb off when the kids were napping this afternoon and was pleasantly surprised with how easy it was to get at and remove. I did leave the linkages on it and the wires and was still able to rotate it and remove the float bowl. I first ran the bike out of fuel with the shut-off and removed the carb. Carefull with Hot exhaust!! I almost had a little incident today, it was a good slap in the face for me...

There was very little crud in the bottom, but it was enough to plug the primer when I was pumping it out.

Anyway after a good cleaning she's up and running again, but I've gotta see if the problem persists before I change the oil out.
By the way this was an excellent oportunity to clean out the air box.

One more thing, can you remove the pull starter to service it without taking off the engine or rear swing arm?
Thanks
Diz

 

[shadetree]

SO I pulled the carb off when the kids were napping this afternoon and was pleasantly surprised with how easy it was to get at and remove. I did leave the linkages on it and the wires and was still able to rotate it and remove the float bowl. I first ran the bike out of fuel with the shut-off and removed the carb. Carefull with Hot exhaust!! I almost had a little incident today, it was a good slap in the face for me...

There was very little crud in the bottom, but it was enough to plug the primer when I was pumping it out.

Anyway after a good cleaning she's up and running again, but I've gotta see if the problem persists before I change the oil out.
By the way this was an excellent oportunity to clean out the air box.

One more thing, can you remove the pull starter to service it without taking off the engine or rear swing arm?
Thanks
Diz

yeah..you can do the pull starter and service it..but wait until you have to service the timming chain and cam !..lol...hope things go good for ya..keep an eye on that carb..make sure it doesn't fill your oil up again..and flush that engine real good from that gas in it.

 

[dizzel]

yeah..you can do the pull starter and service it..but wait until you have to service the timming chain and cam !..lol...hope things go good for ya..keep an eye on that carb..make sure it doesn't fill your oil up again..and flush that engine real good from that gas in it.

Oh Ohh is it really that bad? seems pretty far from the timing chain, My pull start is at the back of the engine...

 

[shadetree]

yeah..you can do the pull starter and service it..but wait until you have to service the timming chain and cam !..lol...hope things go good for ya..keep an eye on that carb..make sure it doesn't fill your oil up again..and flush that engine real good from that gas in it.

Oh Ohh is it really that bad? seems pretty far from the timing chain, My pull start is at the back of the engine...

so is your timming chain and cam !..lol..in the service manual ( clymers )..it states in it..you can service the cam and timming chain while the motor is in the frame..BS !!!!..no freaking way !!..the last cover has to come off..because it covers the slack adjuster and cam tension bolt..sooo..in order to get to these..you have to remove the stator cover ( this is the last cover..the big one )..in order to do this..it has to clear the drive shaft out put shaft..in order to clear the drive shaft..THE MOTOR HAS TO BE REMOVED !..LMAO..sooo..clymer..EAT ONE !..YOU LIE !..LOL.

 

[ostrx250]

hahaha say what you mean shade tree

 

[shadetree]

hahaha say what you mean shade tree

i think i did ost !.lol..i would not have said that..if i didn't find this out first hand when i rebuilt my 2000 rancher trx350tm..stupid clymers !..i just love it..when they say..the motor doesn't need to be removed from the frame..but was removed in this picture for clarity purposes ..lmfao..what a bunch of dumb asses !..lol.

 

[Helmut]

hahaha say what you mean shade tree

i think i did ost !.lol..i would not have said that..if i didn't find this out first hand when i rebuilt my 2000 rancher trx350tm..stupid clymers !..i just love it..when they say..the motor doesn't need to be removed from the frame..but was removed in this picture for clarity purposes ..lmfao..what a bunch of dumb asses !..lol.

Instead of buying the Clymer manual, you should have downloaded the factory service manual that I posted in the "Schematics/Manuals" section. This is what it said about that:

 

[shadetree]

hahaha say what you mean shade tree

i think i did ost !.lol..i would not have said that..if i didn't find this out first hand when i rebuilt my 2000 rancher trx350tm..stupid clymers !..i just love it..when they say..the motor doesn't need to be removed from the frame..but was removed in this picture for clarity purposes ..lmfao..what a bunch of dumb asses !..lol.

Instead of buying the Clymer manual, you should have downloaded the factory service manual that I posted in the "Schematics/Manuals" section. This is what it said about that:

maybe..but..that reads nothing about cam or timming chain ???..and the clymers clearly states these can be serviced in the frame !..lol...someone needs to call clymers..and ask them how they serviced the timming chain and cam while the motor is still in the frame !..lol.

 

[Helmut]

i think i did ost !.lol..i would not have said that..if i didn't find this out first hand when i rebuilt my 2000 rancher trx350tm..stupid clymers !..i just love it..when they say..the motor doesn't need to be removed from the frame..but was removed in this picture for clarity purposes ..lmfao..what a bunch of dumb asses !..lol.

Instead of buying the Clymer manual, you should have downloaded the factory service manual that I posted in the "Schematics/Manuals" section. This is what it said about that:

maybe..but..that reads nothing about cam or timming chain ???..and the clymers clearly states these can be serviced in the frame !..lol...someone needs to call clymers..and ask them how they serviced the timming chain and cam while the motor is still in the frame !..lol.

It don't need to say anything about the cam or timing chain, because they're both behind the stator and flywheel and it already says the engine has to be removed to service those.

 

[shadetree]

Instead of buying the Clymer manual, you should have downloaded the factory service manual that I posted in the "Schematics/Manuals" section. This is what it said about that:

maybe..but..that reads nothing about cam or timming chain ???..and the clymers clearly states these can be serviced in the frame !..lol...someone needs to call clymers..and ask them how they serviced the timming chain and cam while the motor is still in the frame !..lol.

It don't need to say anything about the cam or timing chain, because they're both behind the stator and flywheel and it already says the engine has to be removed to service those.

not in my clymers it don't !..lmfao...thats my point..clymers says these can be serviced while the motor is in the frame..no matter..i already done mine anyway..that problem solved..moving on to the next phaze...lol.

 

[Ty Evans]

The pull grip on my Fourtrax wasn't seating properly and you can guess what happened. In came the mud and crud. Its a tight squeeze but I managed to remove the recoil starter from my 03' Fourtrax. I had to loosen the engine mounting bolts and with a small prybar move the engine slightly forward. Clean everything well and replace the spring if its rusty. You only want to do this job once in a lifetime. Its a very tight squeeze.

 

[shadetree]

The pull grip on my Fourtrax wasn't seating properly and you can guess what happened. In came the mud and crud. Its a tight squeeze but I managed to remove the recoil starter from my 03' Fourtrax. I had to loosen the engine mounting bolts and with a small prybar move the engine slightly forward. Clean everything well and replace the spring if its rusty. You only want to do this job once in a lifetime. Its a very tight squeeze.

ty..the pull starter assembly can be removed from the back of the motor without even moving the motor at all..yeah..it's a tight sqeeze..but it can be done. i found it to be easier by removing the air box..and doing it from the top and bottom..there is only 3 bolts that hold it on..and the hardest ones are at the bottom of it..by taking the air box off..you can reach the top one easy..then the two thats on the bottom of it..you can reach these with a 1/4 drive socket on a swivle attached to a exstention..thats how i did it.