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Discussion Starter #1
This is a rebuild thread.

This is my second rebuild project, and requires a lot of work.

I have a harvest beige 1995 honda 300 4x4.
This quad was given to me as a trade for some work favors.
But, I had to arrange to go get it.
It was located 30km north of my community, in the deep bush, only accessible during the winter, by skidoo. I built a tow-able sled that I could set the quad on, and that could be pulled by a workhorse skandic and set out. The quad was half burried in snow, underneath a huge black spruce, but was in relatively good shape.
I'm excited about this project because of the things I've had to learn, where some things have been more simple than the 450, but others have been more difficult.
Obviously I've had it for some time, and have already completed some work on it.
In true Canadian fashion, I apologize!
Its time to bring everyone up to speed.
 

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Are those pics from last winter or do you guys already have snow this year ?? Never seen that one before , a atv being pulled by a snow mobile , cool !!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I first got it the old owner told me he lost the keys a long time ago, and left it.
Under the big black spruce it sat for I don't no how long without a spark plug.
I blew out as much crap as I could, and soaked he spark plug hole in 2 stroke oil.

Meanwhile I dug around, checked the oil, check the air box.

Surprise!

Found the key underneath the air filter inside the air box.

Got as much of the 2stroke oil out as I could, rigged up a temporary fuel source and BrAAAp, she fired up.

The frame was completely rotted through on the bottom.
Initially I thought I would be able to cut out the rot, and piece in new frame from some scrap odes baja wilderness quads I have laying around.
The job was way more than I could handle especially with all of the mounting brackets I would have to fashion. I opted to look for a used frame, and to swap everything over.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Last weekend I unboxed my first welder!
Over the summer I bought a replacement 300 frame , this one is a 1993, to replace the 1995 rotted frame that I have.
It came with a few rusted out holes in the bottom, which I figured I could repair myself, it also came with ownership, so I was pretty happy about getting that. I paid 300$ for the used frame and ownership, so to date that’s what I’ve got into this build.
I cut out what I thought I should and pieced in new sections.
The flex core splattered a lot, and where the frame was thin from rust, I burned right through and created holes. I didn’t think of grinding everything down after for a smooth finish before painting. A lesson learned from making the mistake and seeing all of your nice work here......
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Now , I’ve been debating on what to do next, and settled with dismantling the front, cleaning things up, and transferring things over as I work my way to the motor. Lots of buffing and painting. The brakes were finished, I’m considering doing the disc conversion. Does anyone have a link for a good price on a kit? I’m in Canada, so that might change things, and shipping might be an issue for cost....here are some mor pics of the old frame, as I’m dismantling things
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Wow , a lot of rust going on ------ on the exhaust studs , I would use a small chiesl and knock off the loose rust then use a strip bolt removal socket , which is a fluted spiral , hammer that on and it might comee off and the threads still be uusable under that rusted nut , if I didn't have the removal sockets , I would find a socket that I could hammer onto the nut and try that
 

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Wow , a lot of rust going on ------ on the exhaust studs , I would use a small chiesl and knock off the loose rust then use a strip bolt removal socket , which is a fluted spiral , hammer that on and it might comee off and the threads still be uusable under that rusted nut , if I didn't have the removal sockets , I would find a socket that I could hammer onto the nut and try that
I don’t have any fluted sockets, but I do have time , I’ll give that a shot!
More progress, painted shocks, painted front bumper, working on the a-arms, will need all new ball joints.
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Discussion Starter #11
The a-arms had a lot of rust. The lowers were pretty simple to wire-wheel, the uppers abit more tricky. They were also pitted , from the rust i suppose. I wire wheeled them pretty good and got as much clean as I could. I wonder if I should be going for bare metal all over, or if this clean up and paint will last for a couple years.... one thing is sure, I’ll be treating this machine a lot better than the last owner.
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Discussion Starter #13
So, as I started c’eaning The exhaust I noticed the end of the party. I don’t think it cracked from anything I’ve done recently. When I tried moving the nut, the whole broken piece of fin swivelled. :(. Does this mean I need a new head?
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Discussion Starter #15
So, acouple things going on at once.
When I seperated the steering shaft assembly from the old frame things went smoothly. But to install it on the new frame, I either need to try and remove the seals and bearings from the old (which seem to be in good condition), or just order new. If I try to recycle, I have to wait until Ive stripped the motor and everything else so I can get at the bearings and seals with the frame upside down. Has anyone ever had any luck recycling bearings and seals?

The rusted exhaust nuts are going to be tough. There's no muffler, at first I was tempted to just leave it, and mickey-mouse a recycled muffler from something else. But the more I think about it, the more I want to do it right, and remove the old exhaust and put on a new aftermarket one. I'll likely be in the market for new studs just from looking at the state of the originals. I may have to buy a fluted socket kit. Anyone have tips for things to be careful off removing these nuts and bolts? The fin is broken on the lower stud. The nuts are so rusted that they've rounded. I can't make out threads either. If I can't get the nuts moving, could I just grind them off, buy new studs and nuts and voila?
 

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Id cut them off then try and get the stud out with heat.
 

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The exhaust studs can be a mudda fudger , I have had many break off , some inside the hole , some with a piece sticking out , have drilled them out and messed up doing it as the stud is in there on and angle , when you drill , you need to keep it right in the middle , being on that angle it can be hard ---recently I had a stud pull the threads out and used Minute Mend Putty to "glue" the stud back in , it is still holding on about 4 rides now -----

One thing you could do as a last resort , but it is going to limit you in one direction , you have a welder , take a nut and hammer it on whats left of the exhaust nuts , weld the two nuts together , only thing is now you are going for the stud and not just the nut , I would try to get that nut off , you might be surprized and have enough of threads to deal with ----- Personally , I don't have much faith in them studs coming out and not snapping off
 

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looking back at the fin cracked , that doesn't look too good , how deep does it go ? What gets me is why didn't the piece fall off , does that crack go into the head ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That piece hasn’t falling off because it is part of the threads capturing the stud. That lowerstyd/fin can wiggle. I have no more stud hole-no good, was wiggling it this afternoon after work. Once I figure out the left top nut/stud the exhaust head will probably come right out with that piece of fin attatched.
 
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