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Howdy friends,

A few days ago I was at the fuel pump, filling up a work truck. On the other side of the pump from me was a gentleman filling his Dodge pickup (RV hauler).

I noticed the nice-looking Can Am he was pulling. I took advantage of the opportunity and spoke up:

Me: "How do you like your Can Am?"

Him: "It's giving me problems. It keeps overheating."

...long pause.....

Me: "I've heard they're powerful, and I see that's an 800 V-twin."

Him: "Yep, it's quite an engine."

That was it, and it seems like this short conversation sums up so well everything I've read/seen/heard about Can Am four wheelers.

I snapped a picture of the quad as I was rolling out.
 

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we have 5 regular riders on Can-Ams ride with us , 1000 Outlander , 1000 Renegade , 800 , 570 outlander and a 570 MRX and it is one thing after another and then the same things again and again , running hot is a very common problem , burning up belts , tie rod ends , differentials , axles , power steering ------ great ride when they are running , it is just expensive to keep them running and a lot of down time , I said before , if you want to ride every weekend and have a Can_Am , you better have 2 as one will always be broken
 

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I'd read about them overheating, is there no aftermarket oversize radiator available, surely that would make sense when most seem to put the rad above the fenders?
 

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I haven't had any heat issues with mine, they are tuned extremely lean from the factory. In most cases just adding a tuner will fix it. However, if you ride down south wrapping the head pipes isn't a bad idea. I'm also having my ECM reprogrammed to have the fan kick on a little sooner. The aftermarket exhaust also helps.
 

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I've got a '13 500 max xt--it's a flying carpet in the trails. Have had no problems with it. I understand you can chew the belts by riding in hot tight circles; use it for plowing snow and trail riding. My neighbor got the 800 from his kid cuz the kid wanted an SXS--no problems w that one. Friend of mine is a geologist uses outlander to map outcrops--rolled it on himself 2x! They seem top heavy to me

The engine is wrapped pretty tightly in cowling--limited duct work there. It wouldn't surprise me to hear about overheating in hot climes after getting coated in mud. They make a top mounted rad maybe run both? Sounds like a redesign is needed

I don't like that the parking brake lever doesn't have a disengage spring like the Honda.
 

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my buddies son is installing a " bullet proof " rear end as he calls it , on his 1000 this weekend , he got it made in Canada by some one , some where , do you happen to know about that set up Mac ? , the 800 is trick out to the max , has a Maverick rear end mod in it , he is the one with power steering problems ,that bike is way too much power for the drive train , here is a pic when he blew the knuckle off the bike --------- the 570 also has steering issues , it has 3 settings and even on the max setting it is hard to steer , he is running 28.5 Outlaw 2's on it , broke an rear axle yesterday , didn't know it had broke and tried to go up on the ramps and the bike took a hard right turn and off the ramps , like to flip over , seen this many times now -------
 

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Yes the "bulletproof" rear end is by Mud n' Wheels. All it is is the stock diff with a little work done to it and put together by someone who knows what they are doing. There is actually aftermarket gear sets and billet housings available too from other companies that would be more bulletproof IMO. But the Mud n' Wheels diff's are very very reliable though, the G2 diffs just have very low build quality, G1 diff's lasted much longer. I've never seen a broken knuckle on one, the one in the pic is a G1 machine. Like I said I run 31x11's up front so you'd think I'd be the one finding the weak points there.
 

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I've got a '13 500 max xt--it's a flying carpet in the trails. Have had no problems with it. I understand you can chew the belts by riding in hot tight circles; use it for plowing snow and trail riding. My neighbor got the 800 from his kid cuz the kid wanted an SXS--no problems w that one. Friend of mine is a geologist uses outlander to map outcrops--rolled it on himself 2x! They seem top heavy to me

The engine is wrapped pretty tightly in cowling--limited duct work there. It wouldn't surprise me to hear about overheating in hot climes after getting coated in mud. They make a top mounted rad maybe run both? Sounds like a redesign is needed

I don't like that the parking brake lever doesn't have a disengage spring like the Honda.
I never use the parking brake, kind of redundant with the park position in the trans.
 

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I used it when trailered so it doesn't rock on the tranny. I probably don't need to do that either. I'm going to install a spring or band on that lever
 

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Wonder why Can Am doesn't change to Yamaha style constant belt tension type clutches??
Doesn't put the power to the ground like the grab and go systems. You loose power through the wet clutch. That's why they sell wet clutch delete kits for the Yamaha's so you can actually switch to the Can-am style. In a utility sense the wet clutch system is superior, but in a performance sense it leaves some on the table...
 

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Around here all the liquid cooled machines with the rad in the stock location tend to overheat when you play in the mud. I spend a lot of time drinking beer waiting on my friend's Rubicons and Rincons to cool down when we ride in hot weather.

My air cooled machines have never overheated. None of them. Not even once.
 

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Around here all the liquid cooled machines with the rad in the stock location tend to overheat when you play in the mud. I spend a lot of time drinking beer waiting on my friend's Rubicons and Rincons to cool down when we ride in hot weather.

My air cooled machines have never overheated. None of them. Not even once.
Liquid cooling is wayyy better at managing heat than air/oil cooling only. But it's obviously crippled by a plugged rad. Keep it clean and you'll be a happy camper, sometimes that takes moving it onto the rack. It's too bad there wasn't aftermarket rads, or high flow pumps etc. for the Honda's.

I have overheated 300's before. They need a load on them though. No oil cooling, air only. Oil cooler would have helped. As far as 350D's, Ranchers, Foreman's...never overheated any of them ever either.
 

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Around here all the liquid cooled machines with the rad in the stock location tend to overheat when you play in the mud. I spend a lot of time drinking beer waiting on my friend's Rubicons and Rincons to cool down when we ride in hot weather.

My air cooled machines have never overheated. None of them. Not even once.
Liquid cooling is wayyy better at managing heat than air/oil cooling only. But it's obviously crippled by a plugged rad. Keep it clean and you'll be a happy camper, sometimes that takes moving it onto the rack. It's too bad there wasn't aftermarket rads, or high flow pumps etc. for the Honda's.

I have overheated 300's before. They need a load on them though. No oil cooling, air only. Oil cooler would have helped. As far as 350D's, Ranchers, Foreman's...never overheated any of them ever either.
Yeah, air cooled are definitely limited on size too. That said, on something off road driven like an ATV, air cooled is much less likely to have a break down. Can't tell you how many times I've busted radiators on my Jeeps over the years. When you're banging around off-road it's only a matter of time before you punch a hole in a radiator or a rad hose.
 

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Yup depends on what kind of power you want out of it. There is always trade offs, for pure work you can't beat air cooled tho.


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