this crossed my mind retro ^^^. I tried to watch the decompression lever to see if it was bouncing ?, I could not see it moving ?. then I thought about the exhaust leak. what's odd is, he said something about the cam chain needing replacing in his first few post, but I don't think he put a new chain in ?.
Timing Mark Help
I'm still getting a ticking noise even after replacing my timing chain. Started wondering if I'm using the wrong mark on the flywheel. I've known there was a second mark just past where I've been using but I could clearly see the "T" on the top mark, so that's what I use. My eyes aren't so good. Today I pulled the cover off my spare to get a good look at the flywheel. Now I'm thinking I should be using the lower mark with the "T" turned sideways.
Which is it?
Which is it?
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D.I.D chain #SCA0412ASDHA114.
I don't believe the decompression lever is making contact with the rocker arm. I can't feel it through the lever, but I can manually rotate it a bit and make it bounce off the rocker arms though
I had thought of an exhaust leak when my top end refresh seemed to cause the noise in a previously quiet motor, retro. I'll take a closer look tomorrow evening. I've had the header pipe off this motor a couple times now. The crush gaskets were compressed evenly, the last time, so I felt that might indicate it sealed. Used new exhaust gaskets and even took time to straighten out the header pipe flange mounts the last time I bolted it on.
I've got a couple hour run time since I set the valve clearance. I was planning to check them about now, anyhow. I don't expect to find them out of whack though. I set them with the motor on my workbench and I've never had an easier time making sure they were right.
I don't believe the decompression lever is making contact with the rocker arm. I can't feel it through the lever, but I can manually rotate it a bit and make it bounce off the rocker arms though
I had thought of an exhaust leak when my top end refresh seemed to cause the noise in a previously quiet motor, retro. I'll take a closer look tomorrow evening. I've had the header pipe off this motor a couple times now. The crush gaskets were compressed evenly, the last time, so I felt that might indicate it sealed. Used new exhaust gaskets and even took time to straighten out the header pipe flange mounts the last time I bolted it on.
I've got a couple hour run time since I set the valve clearance. I was planning to check them about now, anyhow. I don't expect to find them out of whack though. I set them with the motor on my workbench and I've never had an easier time making sure they were right.
I'd look at swapping in a different chain tensioner next then. Sometimes they don't hold on to their full extension against the chain guide very well... I've seen them give up a couple clicks and be sloppy while the motor is running, yet be fully extended again once the motor is shut down. They're difficult to pin down... so easiest is swap one in and see it it makes a difference?
It sounds like you fixed the pipes already. I don't know why, but sometimes they seem to get sprung out of line the moment you take them off.
It sounds like you fixed the pipes already. I don't know why, but sometimes they seem to get sprung out of line the moment you take them off.
stick the cam chain tensioner in the cylinder like you see me doing in this pic, if its anywhere close to the distance this shows ?, you got something wrong ?, or the tensioner is not working right ?. unbolt yours, let it fully extend, then push it back in the cylinder like your going to bolt it up. if the cam chain is good , and the tensioner is working right ?, it should not be anywhere as close as this pic shows !. you should feel the tensioner hit the chain guide wayyyyyyy before you get close to the cylinder.
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