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I have 99 TRX300FW that has a little ticking noise that I only hear while its idling. When I bought it several months ago the tires were only about half way worn and the guy said he has never done anything to it. My question is, is there a way to check the timing chain for wear, and how do you know when to replace it? Thanks again for all of the help that I know you all will give.

sccharles
 

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You can unbolt and remove the timing chain tensioner. When you remove the timing chain tensioner, the arm will automatically extend fully, since it's spring loaded. Now, with the arm fully extended, stick the tensioner back in the hole. If it will go all the way in and touch the cylinder where it bolts, the timing chain is stretched beyond the tensioner's ability to tension the timing chain. After you do that test and get ready to reinstall the tensioner, don't forget to retract the tensioner arm with a small, flat screwdriver. You have to hold the screwdriver in place until you get the tensioner bolted back on. Then, release the screwdriver and the arm will automatically extend and tension the chain. That is, unless the chain is stretched too much.
 

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agreed ^^^^^^..and if you need to replace the chain..we take cash for donations ! j/k..let us know if you need help.
 

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Also I would add that if its "never been touched" to just check the valves. If you have a book that will tell you the spec or you could search this site, or Helmut could post the page up in .01 seconds.. HAHA Welcome to the forums and good luck with your ride.
 

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Also I would add that if its "never been touched" to just check the valves. If you have a book that will tell you the spec or you could search this site, or Helmut could post the page up in .01 seconds.. HAHA Welcome to the forums and good luck with your ride.
whats strange foutrax..in all my rebuilds..i have not once used a fealer gauge..i have been doing them so long..i always go by feal..and i have never had any problems.
 

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I was just thinking if he only hears the noise at idle than maybe its valve adjustment not timing chain. My timing chain was visibly worn and stretched and it made a "rattle" "grinding" noise like a lose chain being drug over a metal wall.
 

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Also I would add that if its "never been touched" to just check the valves. If you have a book that will tell you the spec or you could search this site, or Helmut could post the page up in .01 seconds.. HAHA Welcome to the forums and good luck with your ride.
whats strange foutrax..in all my rebuilds..i have not once used a fealer gauge..i have been doing them so long..i always go by feal..and i have never had any problems.
Yeah, I don't use feeler gauges either. They don't have to be perfect, as long as you get them close. But if you don't have a lot of experience adjusting valves and can't judge the clearance by feel, feeler gauges will help out.

Same thing with a torque wrench, I hardly ever use one.
 

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Also I would add that if its "never been touched" to just check the valves. If you have a book that will tell you the spec or you could search this site, or Helmut could post the page up in .01 seconds.. HAHA Welcome to the forums and good luck with your ride.
whats strange foutrax..in all my rebuilds..i have not once used a fealer gauge..i have been doing them so long..i always go by feal..and i have never had any problems.
Yeah, I don't use feeler gauges either. They don't have to be perfect, as long as you get them close. But if you don't have a lot of experience adjusting valves and can't judge the clearance by feel, feeler gauges will help out.

Same thing with a torque wrench, I hardly ever use one.
agreed helmut..never so much as picked up a torque wrench in all my work..lol..although..i will say..i have snaped a few weak bolts..lmfao.
 

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I was just thinking if he only hears the noise at idle than maybe its valve adjustment not timing chain. My timing chain was visibly worn and stretched and it made a "rattle" "grinding" noise like a lose chain being drug over a metal wall.
Yeah, I agree. It wouldn't hurt trying to adjust the valves first.
 

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no doubt considering the effort it takes to check the valves vs changing the timing chain.

EDIT and I used feeler gauges on mine but they are the straight ones not the angled ones which makes it a bit more tough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all of the quick replies. I checked the timing chain the way Helmut said and there's at least a 1/4" of space around the tensioner. I readjusted the valves and I'm going to give it a try. Thanks again for all the help.

SCCHARLES
 

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Thanks for replies. It helped make diagnosis much faster. Valves adjusted properly. Tensioner maxed out goes all the way in.

My question is:

1. Honda chain vs DID (approx $100 vs $50)

2. Chances I'll need a new tensioner arm or sprocket?

3. What gaskets should I replace? Top end, Clutch Cover, and ???


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Tensioner arm and sprocket replacement must be decided after a visual inspection. If you want to re ring the engine this is an excellant opportunity. It will only take a few extra minutes (less than an hour) and perhaps 60 - 70 dollars more. Some here may say don't do a quick re ring job because it is recommended to do the head too but I couldn't help but mention this easy step.
 

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I always opt for OEM when they are available. however, I have used a few aftermarket with no ill effects.

as for sprocket wear, I judge it by the look/wear pattern while torn down.

to check for a worn tensioner just retract the arm 5-10 times, if it retracts and comes out smooth with no hangups I always reuse them.

Order a top end gasket kit, it will come with all of the necessary gaskets and orings you need to seal up the top end. I would replace the valve stem seals while you have it apart.
 
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