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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! This is a1994 trxd type 2 200 cc. I finally got my drive chain adjuster figured out. I aligned the front end. It handles much better. However, I don't know if I'm looking for things to go wrong or if I am hearing things? I wonder if the ticking that I'm hearing on this video
(https://youtu.be/VLUw0xw7C_Q)
is indicative of something serious or if it just normal operating sound. I haven't had it started and running since last summer when it had been ridden about 6 miles after a top end rebuild.

I wonder if your ears can tell what it is. It sounds like it's coming from the top by the camshaft/valve area.

Thanks!
 

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either valves need adjusting ?, or worse case, the connecting rod is making that sound !. when you rebuilt the top end, did you check the top of the connecting rod for play with the wrist pin ?????.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The cylinder was bored out about 0.10 oversized with a corresponding piston. The connecting rod where the wrist pin slides into was slightly oval shaped and had some scuff marks inside. I had difficulty in sliding in the wrist pin even with freezing the pin and warming the connecting rod. It seemed that there was a burr in the wrist pin hole, so I used a fine sandpaper around a socket and smoothed the hole out.
Afterwards, the pin slid in, but there wasn't any play that I could detect.
 

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Can chain adjuster? Where is that located and how is it adjusted?
did you lift up and push down on the connecting rod when you had it torn down ?, if not ?, it may have play on it ?. the cam chain slack adjuster should be on the back side of the cylinder, held in with two bolts. there is no adjusting it, it's automatic, it pushes the cam chain guides in as the chain stretches ?, once the chain stretches to far ?, the slack adjuster won't work any more as it's reached it's limit. only way to fix this is to replace the cam chain.
 

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Otherwise if timing chain checks out ok, I then assume the valves need adjusting. Any particular way to decide whether to adjust one or the other?
you check/adjust both valves. sticky in the repair section by me, explains how to do this, step by step.
 

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That to me does not sound like a valve train tick. cam chain sounds more like ping (if that's even described right)

this sounds like a knock.

I suspect a rod bearing failure.
 

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That to me does not sound like a valve train tick. cam chain sounds more like ping (if that's even described right)

this sounds like a knock.

I suspect a rod bearing failure.
I agree bro, that's why I said to check the connecting rod for play. sounds like a rod knock to me ?.
 

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Rod bearing failure---not so cool....
you lifted rod, and can feel slack when lifting and pushing it back down ?. should not be any play, very little side to side play.
 

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At the time I had it apart, I did check up and down play, and it did feel solid. There was just a tiny hint of side to side play, but nothing that seemed unusual.
side to side play is ok, if its a little ?, but up and down play won't work. pull the top end down, take the piston off, stick the wrist pins very end, into the top of the connecting rod, lift up, push down the other end that your holding, should not be any play at all !!. if there is ?, your connecting rod at the top is bad, and will need to be replaced. but !!. before you tear it apart ?, check the cam chain for slack first !.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
https://youtu.be/XY8_cR2vNlQ

I'm sorry about the camera work. I was trying to balance a flashlight and a socket wrench and the camera.

I noticed as I took out the spark plug, it was just screwed in finger tight. Don't know if that plays into anything noise-wise. Probably not. It was running fine before, just ticky.

The valve adjuster levers. The service manual says to turn them counterclockwise until resistance is met and then back off a notch. The exhaust valve adjuster(the one towards front of engine) will rotate cc until it bumps into the frame of the box, otherwise, I'm *not* meeting any resistance. The intake valve adjuster does meet resistance when I rotate it cc, however.

I'm not sure of the significance of the exhaust valve. I had the shop do a pressure test on the valves and the said they were fine.

Too much wear on the rocker arms or cam lobes?

Cam chain. there was mention of the cam chain adjuster. I took the bolts out but wasn't able to move that part at all. I wasn't trying very hard, though. There was a little slack in the chain on the front part away from the adjuster.

I haven't gone any deeper into the engine to check for rod play due to time constraints and no replacement gasket.

Thanks again!

Jason
 

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https://youtu.be/XY8_cR2vNlQ

I'm sorry about the camera work. I was trying to balance a flashlight and a socket wrench and the camera.

I noticed as I took out the spark plug, it was just screwed in finger tight. Don't know if that plays into anything noise-wise. Probably not. It was running fine before, just ticky.

The valve adjuster levers. The service manual says to turn them counterclockwise until resistance is met and then back off a notch. The exhaust valve adjuster(the one towards front of engine) will rotate cc until it bumps into the frame of the box, otherwise, I'm *not* meeting any resistance. The intake valve adjuster does meet resistance when I rotate it cc, however.

I'm not sure of the significance of the exhaust valve. I had the shop do a pressure test on the valves and the said they were fine.

Too much wear on the rocker arms or cam lobes?

Cam chain. there was mention of the cam chain adjuster. I took the bolts out but wasn't able to move that part at all. I wasn't trying very hard, though. There was a little slack in the chain on the front part away from the adjuster.

I haven't gone any deeper into the engine to check for rod play due to time constraints and no replacement gasket.

Thanks again!

Jason
where you located bro ?, if state side, pm me your phone number
 

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Cam chain is completely shot.

on your video at the 0:50 second mark. you can see you removed both your tensioner hold down bolts and the tensioner is sitting there completely flush with the block.

that tells me your chain is stretched beyond what the tensioner can hold tight.

time to replace the chain. that should take care of the tick.

PS. rocker faces look decent. any reputable machine shop can reface those for you. (I would do it since your that far in.)

BTW, I would also pull the cam and inspect the rear journal. its unlikely that its worn (cam lobes look fine) but another spot to check before buttoning it back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, I wasn't able to remove the tensioner after removing the hold down bolts. I didn't try very hard to remove it, though. To move it, do you tap it with a rubber mallet, or does it come off a different way? I have to respect old metal, that's why I ask "is it ok to tap on this?"
 
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