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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys here is an update - I have a 2003 Honda 350 that I changed out the shift plate arm on and than had electrical issues so I fixed all of that. It is now starting and running great and is all back together.

However it is now smoking - white smoke I think. Is it possible I got a carb adjustment wrong when I cleaned it? What are the carb adjustments?

Here are some updated pics....
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
There is air/idle screw on the bottom of the carb... what should that be set at? Its currently turned all the way in which I know must be wrong. But as its idling if I am turning it in and out it doesnt seem to be doing anything.
 

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There is air/idle screw on the bottom of the carb... what should that be set at? Its currently turned all the way in which I know must be wrong. But as its idling if I am turning it in and out it doesnt seem to be doing anything.
if turning the air/fuel mixture screw does not effect the motor ?, then the carb is not clean ?, or stopped up ?, or, just needs a carb rebuild kit. as for the smoking ?, this could be a few things, bad oil rings ?, bad valve guide seals ?, or you do have a rich mixture on the carb :).
 

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The FSM will give you a good starting point for air/fuel mixture, I'd start at around 2 1/2 out and take it from there. You may benefit a new spark plug when setting the mixture, or at least cleaning the old one with a wire wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes When I am turning that air idle screw it does not impact the motor at all. I did just have the carb off and cleaned but maybe it picked something else up or I put it back together wrong?

When I pulled the plug it was black, I pout in a new plug and let it idle for a few mins and than pulled it. It was also black - could this just be a rich oil mixture or does this thing need a rebuild. It has 33,000 km on it and im not sure if it has had anything done to it.

How do I change the settings in the carb?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Not sure if I did right but I ended up ordering a whole top end kit off amazon. Is there a write up anywhere on advice how to do this?
 

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Not sure if I did right but I ended up ordering a whole top end kit off amazon. Is there a write up anywhere on advice how to do this?
service manual shows ya how to rebuild the motor. most members here get their hands on a service manual, and take it from there. unless you have rebuilt many Honda atv motors like some of us have done on here ?, your best bet is to get the service manual !!. if you come across a problem that you cant find the answer to in the manual ?..then hit us up here..i'm more than sure someone will lend a few words of wisdom to ya :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ive never done it but best way to learn is just do it right ? haha

And thanks as always without this forum I would never try these projects.

Any tips or tricks I should look out for before getting into it?
 

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Ive never done it but best way to learn is just do it right ? haha

And thanks as always without this forum I would never try these projects.

Any tips or tricks I should look out for before getting into it?
service manual...period. rebuilding a top end, or worse case, new crank ?, is pretty simple. if you have to replace the crank because the connecting rod bearing is bad ?, you will need special tools to remove the flywheel, centrifugal clutch, then you can get the cases split. hopefully it won't be this bad ?, but ya never know !.
 

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Turning the pilot jet all the way in should kill the motor. I don't discount possible engine work that's a lotta km
Have you done compression test?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ive never done it but best way to learn is just do it right ? haha

And thanks as always without this forum I would never try these projects.

Any tips or tricks I should look out for before getting into it?
service manual...period. rebuilding a top end, or worse case, new crank ?, is pretty simple. if you have to replace the crank because the connecting rod bearing is bad ?, you will need special tools to remove the flywheel, centrifugal clutch, then you can get the cases split. hopefully it won't be this bad ?, but ya never know !.[/QUOTE

Thanks Im gonna try my hand at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Turning the pilot jet all the way in should kill the motor. I don't discount possible engine work that's a lotta km
Have you done compression test?
It defiantly does not impact that motor at all - any idea as to why that may be happening?
 

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It defiantly does not impact that motor at all - any idea as to why that may be happening?
The carb may still be dirty & plugged somewhere. The service manual seems to have been completely ignored too, despite advice several times from myself and several other members in your threads that you must read, understand and follow it. There may be other issues as well... but since you refuse to read the FSM to solve any, you can't possibly know...

You'll need to disassemble the OEM carb completely and clean it thoroughly. That can require a long carb body soak in some strong solvent sometimes. Having compressed air on hand for blowing out passages is necessary too. Don't soak any of the soft parts in solvent... 100% metals only. After the carb body is clean and dry, reassemble it step-by-step as the service manual set up recommends. Use only OEM replacement parts in your OEM carb, or else... If you put ANY cheap, non-OEM parts on your bike you will be left with useless china garbage that no one can help you with.

Clean out the fuel tank & fuel hoses & tank vent (carb vent hoses & drain hoses too!) and put new fuel filter & air filter on it. Adjust all cables when you put it back on the bike. Check for air leaks around the intake manifold when you first start it up. To accomplish all these things successfully requires that you study the FSM and follow it word-for-word, from start to finish. This advice applies to your pending top-end refresh as well.

Wish you the best, enjoy your work and have fun with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the help - I have spent a lot of time with the manual but was just looking for some tips from the experts that may not be in the manual before I got into it. Sorry for all the questions. I did change out the the entire shift mechanism with the help of the manual, and cleaned the carb with the help of the manual - but must have missed something in the carb.

My top end kit is in and will be trying my hand at it this weekend.

Will keep you updated and thanks as always.
 

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Great, if ya get in a tough spot or have a question let us know...

A tip:
Stuff rags around the rod as you are lifting the cylinder... pull the cylinder up just until you see the piston skirt coming out of the bottom and hold it right there... while you stuff rags down there to catch any potential loose/broken rings, circlip etc. that can fall out when the piston clears the bottom of the bore and flops over against the rod.

I'm not saying you have any broken rings or anything... its just a precautionary practice you should take up anytime you are pulling the topend down. Someday you'll get burned if you don't.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Great, if ya get in a tough spot or have a question let us know...

A tip:
Stuff rags around the rod as you are lifting the cylinder... pull the cylinder up just until you see the piston skirt coming out of the bottom and hold it right there... while you stuff rags down there to catch any potential loose/broken rings, circlip etc. that can fall out when the piston clears the bottom of the bore and flops over against the rod.

I'm not saying you have any broken rings or anything... its just a precautionary practice you should take up anytime you are pulling the topend down. Someday you'll get burned if you don't.... :)
Great Tip - I got to it yesterday and got everything pulled apart. The cylinder sleeve was actually loose in the cylinder and could be taken right out. I have a new cylinder, piston, rings and valve seals to go in.

Of course I broke one of the head bolts off in the case...that will be todays project
 

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