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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!
We're back on the forums! My name is Erik, and I wear many hats at SuperATV. it's been awhile, but we are trying to get more involved. Quick question..

What would you pay for a quality hydraulic rear disc brake kit?

We have an awesome front disc brake kit, but we understand the current mechanical rear kit can be a bear to adjust to your liking. The current kit is $229.95, and converting our kit to hydraulic would be more expensive. We want to know what a fair price point would be and if it would be worth converting it?
 

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Thanks for addressing the issue most seem to have had with the existing setup, and even more so for offering a discount to members here.

I would probably go $300 if the setup would work well and the parking brake still worked.

It looks like figuring out a way to keep the Reverse lockout on a Honda would be the difficult part. The line would be cheap, but getting a left brake lever with a master cylinder that still had the Reverse lockout and parking brake would be the tough part.

It really all depends on how you do it. If the result works well, doesn't mess too much with the parking brake/ reverse function built into the left brake, I'd pay up for it.

I'm curious as to what you have in mind exactly as far as a conversion. Guys here might be able to give some input on ways to keep the functionality of the reverse lockout and parking brake when converting to hydraulic.
 

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You could run a cable operated master cylinder like on the rear of the Rubicon/Rincon. Master cylinder itself is down by the foot brake, I think the foot brake may actually directly actuate the master cyl. Would have to look at one. Anyway, having a setup like that would allow you to keep the reverse lockout.

I think $300 would be a good target price, more than that most people probably won't be willing to pay up. I'd still like to see a wet brake setup on the rear of the SRA Hondas but that might be a bit extreme lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You guys are awesome! Great input! I'll shoot this up the ladder and try get the ball rolling on this...and keep it affordable.
 

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I think it would be far easier to have the park brake cable operated and have the foot brake hydraulic, that said, I removed my foot brake lever and built foot boards to suit, I’m sure many others have too. Either way, your product needs to be user friendly and based on stock ATV’s in my opinion.

I’m looking forward to this as I was considering a rear disc mod.
 

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I think it would be far easier to have the park brake cable operated and have the foot brake hydraulic, that said, I removed my foot brake lever and built foot boards to suit, I’m sure many others have too. Either way, your product needs to be user friendly and based on stock ATV’s in my opinion.

I’m looking forward to this as I was considering a rear disc mod.
I'm pretty sure this is how the Rincons are set up.
 

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I think it would be far easier to have the park brake cable operated and have the foot brake hydraulic, that said, I removed my foot brake lever and built foot boards to suit, I’m sure many others have too. Either way, your product needs to be user friendly and based on stock ATV’s in my opinion.

I’m looking forward to this as I was considering a rear disc mod.
I'm pretty sure this is how the Rincons are set up.
Ahh ok, I’ve never seen a Rincon so don’t know. Not a very popular machine here.
 

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The hydraulic kit would be worthless to me , unless SuperATV would start building a rear disc kit for a 250/350 rear end ( used in 300 mods ) , I think all it would take is a rotor hub that would fit the axle spline , which is smaller diameter than your kit works with

So I would be willing to pay for a rear disc kit that doesn't fit my bike and the parts needed to make that kit fit

Erik , right now I have 7 front disc kits ( 3 -300 4wd , 3 - 300 2wd "Super Atv 4x4 kits I modified " , 1 -450 4x4 and 1 - 450 rear disc kit ) == how's about coming up with some better brake pads
 

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The hydraulic kit would be worthless to me , unless SuperATV would start building a rear disc kit for a 250/350 rear end ( used in 300 mods ) , I think all it would take is a rotor hub that would fit the axle spline , which is smaller diameter than your kit works with

So I would be willing to pay for a rear disc kit that doesn't fit my bike and the parts needed to make that kit fit

Erik , right now I have 7 front disc kits ( 3 -300 4wd , 3 - 300 2wd "Super Atv 4x4 kits I modified " , 1 -450 4x4 and 1 - 450 rear disc kit ) == how's about coming up with some better brake pads
^^^What he said^^^
 

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I’m doing a rear brake delete on mine. Have all the cables & foot pedal removed already. However, if Super ATV makes a rear kit, I’d be in!! The front discs I have now are awesome.
 

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I think it would be far easier to have the park brake cable operated and have the foot brake hydraulic, that said, I removed my foot brake lever and built foot boards to suit, I’m sure many others have too. Either way, your product needs to be user friendly and based on stock ATV’s in my opinion.



I’m looking forward to this as I was considering a rear disc mod.


I'm pretty sure this is how the Rincons are set up.


You are correct, I was thinking the cable operated a remote master cylinder but not the case. The IRS Rubicon is the same way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry fishfiles. I don't always check the forums on the weekend.

This is all great info. Thanks guys.
 

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So , are you thinking about some better quality pads ? ----maybe even brass pocks ? ---- I ordered 2 sets of front pads from you'll last night , riding in the mud it is about fifty cents an hour for brakes @$25 per set of pads

Here is something I need help with right now , I have several 300 2wd Fourtrax's with the Super SuperATV disc conversion kits which I modified to fit them , I am about ready to change the front wheel bearings and seals in the hub which is supplied in the kit , can you supply bearings and seals to me or give me some numbers as there are no numbers on the bearings , I have 3 300 2wd's set up like that and would buy 3 sets from you
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Pads are a tough one. Regular pads will not last as long in the mud as they would in any other condition. It doesn't matter what brand. Brass pads hold up longer in the mud, but they are terrible and unsafe in any other riding condition. I'll pass along your interest to see if something can be done when we work on the hydraulic upgrade to the rear kit.

I have most of the replacement parts you need if you want to get them from us. They are all pressed into the hubs already, so we don't have any individual bearings laying around. We can definitely get you replacement hubs if you want with the bearings already pressed into them. I can get you this week's forum code if you want to go that route and call in the order. If you'd like to find your own, they are pretty much the same as an OE replacement.
Front for the 2wd kit: 20x42x12mm (out of stock)
Rear: 58x28x16mm
 

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Thanks Erik , for the numbers , I think I have talked with you on the phone before and you helped me then ?

Thanks Retro for the part number , found the 6004 2RS and order three sets which is 12 of them
 

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Pads are a tough one. Regular pads will not last as long in the mud as they would in any other condition. It doesn't matter what brand. Brass pads hold up longer in the mud, but they are terrible and unsafe in any other riding condition. I'll pass along your interest to see if something can be done when we work on the hydraulic upgrade to the rear kit.

I have most of the replacement parts you need if you want to get them from us. They are all pressed into the hubs already, so we don't have any individual bearings laying around. We can definitely get you replacement hubs if you want with the bearings already pressed into them. I can get you this week's forum code if you want to go that route and call in the order. If you'd like to find your own, they are pretty much the same as an OE replacement.
Front for the 2wd kit: 20x42x12mm (out of stock)
Rear: 58x28x16mm
I have a question on replacement parts (I sent in an email and didn't get a response).

I currently have one of your disc conversions for a 300FW. I will be ordering two more as I finish projects. On my 500's and 420 I keep extra knuckles around so that when bearings wear out I have another knuckle ready to swap in. Speeds things up a little and then I can replace bearings and ball joints when I have more time.

I asked about ordering the caliper mounting brackets (if they are available separately, and if so, what they would cost). That way I can have a set of knuckles with fresh bearings and ball joints and won't have to remove the brackets to swap the fresh knuckles on.

I've learned that on these mud and water rigs, the fewer times you have to try to remove a bolt, the less chance there is for a stripped/ broken bolt.

Can't use anti-seize on those bracket mounting bolts (really need to use locktite IMO) and those hex heads strip out easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pads are a tough one. Regular pads will not last as long in the mud as they would in any other condition. It doesn't matter what brand. Brass pads hold up longer in the mud, but they are terrible and unsafe in any other riding condition. I'll pass along your interest to see if something can be done when we work on the hydraulic upgrade to the rear kit.

I have most of the replacement parts you need if you want to get them from us. They are all pressed into the hubs already, so we don't have any individual bearings laying around. We can definitely get you replacement hubs if you want with the bearings already pressed into them. I can get you this week's forum code if you want to go that route and call in the order. If you'd like to find your own, they are pretty much the same as an OE replacement.
Front for the 2wd kit: 20x42x12mm (out of stock)
Rear: 58x28x16mm
I have a question on replacement parts (I sent in an email and didn't get a response).

I currently have one of your disc conversions for a 300FW. I will be ordering two more as I finish projects. On my 500's and 420 I keep extra knuckles around so that when bearings wear out I have another knuckle ready to swap in. Speeds things up a little and then I can replace bearings and ball joints when I have more time.

I asked about ordering the caliper mounting brackets (if they are available separately, and if so, what they would cost). That way I can have a set of knuckles with fresh bearings and ball joints and won't have to remove the brackets to swap the fresh knuckles on.

I've learned that on these mud and water rigs, the fewer times you have to try to remove a bolt, the less chance there is for a stripped/ broken bolt.

Can't use anti-seize on those bracket mounting bolts (really need to use locktite IMO) and those hex heads strip out easily.
No problem getting you the mounting brackets. I'll have to check on individual cost, but we can definitely do it. Just give us a call whenever you're ready, and we'll put it together. Don't forget to hit me up for the weekly discount code.
 

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Hey guys!
We're back on the forums! My name is Erik, and I wear many hats at SuperATV. it's been awhile, but we are trying to get more involved. Quick question..

What would you pay for a quality hydraulic rear disc brake kit?

We have an awesome front disc brake kit, but we understand the current mechanical rear kit can be a bear to adjust to your liking. The current kit is $229.95, and converting our kit to hydraulic would be more expensive. We want to know what a fair price point would be and if it would be worth converting it?
Yall ever dig into this any further?
 
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fishfiles
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