I'm surprised your bigger drain bolt with a sealing washer didn't seal. Is there space to remove a little extra from the lip? As long as you have a full circumference of flat area, could be pretty narrow but as long as it has a flat width for the sealing washer to push tight against, it should seal right up.Yeah, I've had many autos die after a flush or change. It's insane how often. Makes you never want to bother.
I think my bolt within a bolt idea is as good as any. Last time I tried to find someone to weld aluminum it was like trying to buy crack. It won't hurt anything to try, and if it doesn't work then I try something else. Any "real" solution at this point world require pulling the engine and grinding down that lip perfectly flat. That's a last resort as I don't have any help and a bad back. But I'll do it if it comes to that.
Cheap, easy, simple first. I'm not too keen on running it dry out the filter. And I don't see a current advantage to plugging it up and draining or the side of the case. While both would work, they seem more risky and more trouble than just installing a bolt with a smaller bolt inside it. Those are made for exactly this situation.
But great ideas guys if simple doesn't work!! One step at a time!
Yes, I agree, but without pulling the engine there is just no way to get the area perfectly flat. There is a welded frame cross-member there, with just a hole in it for the oil drain. Access and angles are very limited. Due to another stripped bolt I've found, pulling the engine is on the list, as I'm going to have to heli-coil the new stripped bolt I've found. But it seems it's been running years with it stripped, so it's not exactly pressing. Thinking maybe next year. I have plans for a 2nd quad for my son, once I have a spare quad I'll pull the engine on this one and "get it right". "Good enough" is how it's going to have to stay till then.