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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 Honda foreman es, it is a full time 4-wheel Drive. It has correct air pressures but seems real hard to steer. Especially sitting still, 2-3 mph or less it seems too hard to turn. Especially if you have a 5 yr. old grandson you are trying to keep safe. Is this normal for 4-wheel drive? I lift the front end up with a jack with the tires clear and it is easy. This bike is in great shape and a one owner adult bike. Is this the way it should be. I can’t find anything wore out in the steering. Is there specific areas to check. Can I convert it to 2 and 4 wheel drive and alleviate this problem.
 

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in the steering column under the headlight, is a rubber bushing, that is long overdue for grease. i cant remember what type.,then the tie rod joints may be dry. i cheated when i put grease in them, normally they dont have grease zerks, so i got a grease needle, that attaches to a grease gun, stuck a hole through the boot, and added grease that way. did it on the CV joints too. i dont ride in a lot of water though. it's not recommended, i did it anyway. i got 2 tie rod's, an 4 tie rod ends, setting on the floor, because i dont need them yet. i bought them, before i used the needle. so it goes
 

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you can check and make sure it has proper toe/out, all wheel bearings are good
but when in full time 4 wheel drive there will always be more effort to steer things,as your front wheels are pulling and NOT just rolling, and thus they will want to go straight! more!
also, what do you mean you have correct air pressure??
running the tires more HARD, higher air pressure will make steering easier, as there won;t be as much flex in the side wall and or traction , BUT it will suffer in handling in other ways! and could get you more Bump steer! so has some gains and some con's to running too much air
but so does running LOW air pressure(harder steering handling and well, can get wheel damage easier)
the correct air pressure is always a personal thing, NO real ONE setting for all deal!
 

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my factory tires have two stars on the side. it means they can take up to 5 lbs. the book says 2.5 pounds, roundabout. my tires are Dunlop, aint worth much 2-ply tires go, but will hold 5 lbs.
something strange occurs when tires are off the ground, steering wise. all of your problems seem to disappear. yet they do not.
the lock bolt at the bottom of the steering shaft, would not stay tight, on mine, so i got a new one.
it would not stay tight, so i made a work around. strange things happen. when it is loose, the tie rods get extra play, an ya wont notice it till the atv touches the ground. when it was running, once i got the steering problem out of the way, not to mention the cv joints it steered just fine. the cv joints were also putting a drag on the steering. hard to believe, but true, in my mind. {not much to go on} i can do near donuts, with mine. least a 270..
 

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like ted mentioned that upper bushing being dry will make it hard to steer , also the ball joints being dry will doit , the hypodermic needle on the end of the grease gun might help , the lower steering bearing could be the problem , hope not cause it is kind hard to change ------- the steering is harder when in 4wd , there is a Wide Open 4x2 kickout available for the 450 , which I think you might have as you called it a 2000 Foreman ES and never gave the CC's ---- it will make it 4wd with a the push of a knob and 2wd with a pull , they are pricey at $350 and not too bad to install , you have to unbolt the front diff and put the 4x2 in place of the front drive shaft , I highly recommend this mod , I have two 450 and 3 300s that have this kit in them , makes more fun and easy to ride
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hard steering

Thanks for the replies, I will check the top bushing first. What should I do replace or grease? And grease with what? I can check tie-rods to I suppose. You mentioned a bottom bushing that maybe the last thing I check. I’ve only heard of the 424 from one other guy and don’t know what I’m talkining about when I refer to about it. I would like more info on it. You mentioned about $350. Can you give more detail. My foreman is a 450. ES 2000 model. One owner really good shape. Maybe my front really needs a good greasing, alignment?? Not sure. Please elaborate more and Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for your reply, haven’t had a 4-wheeler ever in my life. So goes my story on that, I would think they are harder to steer but never having had one I don’t know what to compare it to. My manual said 2.5-3 lbs. I believe that so I took that as gospel so that’s what they have in them. Just too hard for me to turn around at the end of a road slowly riding grandkids. Do you know anything about converting to a two wheel drive set-up to go back and forth to four wheel drive? Something about a 424 setup I know nothing about yet. Please inform me any and all you know about it. Such as any links to it, the cost, advantages. Can ordinary mechanic like myself do This?
Can I buy tie-rods that have grease allemites in them? I know anything Honda is gonna cost. How can I check for toe-in. I will look at my tires original owner said he replaced the tires once since he bought it new. I don’t know if original tires were 2 or 4 ply or what. And even what size originally came on it. I do believe they look to be a original looking size. Everything looks stock to me. Thanks for your replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mrbb, I used the owner manuals recommendation on the air pressure. I realize more pressure-it should steer easier and vice versa. My four wheeler from the factory is Full Time 4-wheel Drive so I have to live with that or convert it somehow to an optional 2-4 wheel drive. Do you have any input on that? Thanks
 

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If that rubber bushing on top is tight , to not have to disassemble it , you can spray some lubricant in it while working it and wash some of the dirt out , then spray some garage door lube into the crack , it comes out liquid then turns to grease

I would jack the front end off the ground , work the tires left and right by hand and get a feel for whats tight -----if it is the ball joints that are tight then by the book it would mean to replace them as there is no grease fitting , if they are stiff but not all wallowed out and loose you can get a straw of a can of aerosoil lubricant under the rubber boat and spray it while turning left and right then apply some grease with a needle on a grease gun and get a second life ------- go to e-bay and search Wide Open 4x2, then your model

Being you have a 450 , you might like this thread , it is a 2000S , covered a lot of different things in it , also have a thread on a 2002 450FM

https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/builds-projects-diy/123454-2000-trx450fm-build-mods.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LEdFTed, do you have a 450 foreman es 2000 yr. model. That I can compare this to. Cv joints are they greasable, how would you check them? Remove them and physically flex them. What about a bottom bearing is it changeable at home. Or a Honda shop job. You and two other guys have gave me great things to look at and remedy. I will start today on looking and greasing what I can. Will get back with all of you. Thanks
 

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Mrbb, I used the owner manuals recommendation on the air pressure. I realize more pressure-it should steer easier and vice versa. My four wheeler from the factory is Full Time 4-wheel Drive so I have to live with that or convert it somehow to an optional 2-4 wheel drive. Do you have any input on that? Thanks
I have the little brother to your atv, the 400 foreman a yr older, I ride mine all the time with one hand, its full time 4x4 as well, I run about 8 or more psi in my tires, my niece and nephews have been steering it since they were about 7 yrs old and UP with me sitting behind them in case!
AT FULL TURN ON THE BAR, IT WILL WANT TO go STRAIGHT, , its the fact again its in 4x4 and wants to allow wheels to ONLY turn at same speed ,thus making them want to go straight, there is NO way around this, unless you go to a kit that converts things to 2x4 option
like these

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Warn-424-L...da-TRX450-Foreman-4x4-1998-2001-/400800160248

I have never felt the need to do so, I run 25 inch tall tires, I run a lot of AIR, I skip what the manual says on air pressure LOL

it rides harder more bounce at times and even some bump steer as well from all the air
but works for me for the past 20 yrs or so!

MY suggestion to you would before spending the $$ is GO ride a 2 wheel drive atv of about the same size as yours, NOT a sport atv either, but a 4x4 one that has select-able 4 wheel drive, and see if you think the effort is that much less than what you have,
as to some it is a bunch different, to others its NOT that much!
there are also atv's with power steering that might appeal to you if you think its a LOT on both 4x4 and 2x4 models

and before you say you don;'t know anyone with a atv to let you try,
heck, go to a deal and test drive some LOL
just act itchy to spend money, they will let you test drive a few in circles in there parking lot! HAHA!
and that si what you need to do, drive in tighter circles, to see/feel any difference in a 4x4 over a 2x4 setting on drive train to see if the HARD steering you have is normal or not, as you just don;'t know, only having yours to ride!

no point in throwing money or time at your atv if its correct as is!


What size tires are on your ATV too!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
mrbb, thanks for reply.will try the 8 psi and see what happens. I don’t know what size tires I have on there, will go look and get back to you in a little while. There’s No way a kid could steer mine. Probably won’t go to store and ride a new one though. My tires are worn quite a bit with not much cleat raised up, that maybe giving me to much tire contact. Is it hard to post a picture here. I’ve never tried
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Fishfiles, I raised front end off the ground it steers fine. Ball joints looked great. Rubber bushing at top is dry but not ugly. Will try what you suggested about cleaning and lubricating it. Hope I don’t have to go all the way down-to bottom bearing. My tires are pretty worn down with not much knobbies left, could this cause too much tire surface to contact the ground and cause the hard steering. Bet so. Can I post pictures here of the tires or is it hard to do. Maybe e-mail them to you or text them to you. Perhaps that’s my source of resistance there. Thanks
 

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Fishfiles, I raised front end off the ground it steers fine. Ball joints looked great. Rubber bushing at top is dry but not ugly. Will try what you suggested about cleaning and lubricating it. Hope I don’t have to go all the way down-to bottom bearing. My tires are pretty worn down with not much knobbies left, could this cause too much tire surface to contact the ground and cause the hard steering. Bet so. Can I post pictures here of the tires or is it hard to do. Maybe e-mail them to you or text them to you. Perhaps that’s my source of resistance there. Thanks

Posting pics is pretty easy , I am not computer sauve and I manage it --- you fighting it , might just be full time four wheel drive , it makes a difference to be able to disconnect , being able to stop the front from pulling will shorten your turning radius , make it easier ---- I know after a 2 -2 .5 hour ride thru the swamp , I am worn out if I ride my 92 300 with out a 4x2 compared to any other bike I have with a 4x2
 

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rls8836, i have the same exact model you have. i it is really hard to shift when it is full time 4x4. you can buy a warn 424 selector ( which is the same thing as wide open 4x2) both are about $370 to $380. that will help to make it easier to steer if it's in 2wd. in my opinion there is no downside to having the selectable 4x4. the newer models have it now. if you are mechanically inclined you should be able to install the 4x4 selector. if you see my signature i have installed the mods on mine and i'm no mechanic. i just installed last year new front wheel bearings, tie rod ends and upper and lower ball joints. the cv joints are not grease able unless you use a needle to inject the grease in or take the clamping band off the boot, grease it and put a new clamp on it.
 

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my point about riding another atv, is so you know the difference, and can decide if the 2x4 option for your's is worth the time and money to install it!
as after all, if you spend all that time and money and still think its HARD to steer, you didn;t gain anything!

these older atv's are much smaller than most new models, and even in 4x4, tend to steer(when all is right) NOT that much different IMO than new full sized ones in 2 wheel drive!
this si why so many new models now have power steering, as its the real ONLY way IMO to notice a BIG difference

I have rode my atv on 100 mile days with pretty much one arm all day long, every where but real tricky sections, and also with my dog sitting on atv(custom rack for him and why I ride with one arm to hold onto him if need be)
never felt worn out at end of the day, but a lot comes down to type of riding you do, and guess the condition of the driver too!

but my nieces and nephews, log on about 25 miles a day at a time, and do just fine, if any complaint from them its there thumbs get sore, being so small and all!
super tight circle turn about I do help some times, but not always!

I would again, check your front end alignment, make sure that is correct, make sure your not running too wide and tall a tire, that will add to the hard steering!
and all other front end parts are good

but before I would spend 400+ bucks, I'd make sure I know what I am getting, by riding a different ATV in 2 wheel drive to KNOW the difference and that its NOT just YOU< not used to atv's period!

got to be others near you that own atv's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
mrbb, your making sense I know, just hate to go to Honda shop and give them a bad impression of me. I know one of the salesman personally, maybe I’ll give him a call and explain what I’m experiencing and get feedback from him. He may say just like you, and say come on ride one of ours and don’t worry about buying. Thanks again for all your feedback.
 
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