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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry to put up a new post, but I can't get into my old post.
I still have no neutral light, even in neutral, no headlights, nothing.
I bump started it this afternoon, and all lights worked, even high and low beams on the headlights. No trouble bump starting at all...fires right up.
Neutral light flickers a little bit, as do the headlights. but with some throttle, the lights steady out. Am I under charged on the battery?? I put a volt meter on it and it read a little over 11 volts. I pushed the starter button while it was running, just to see what it would do, and the solenoid clicks. Key off kills it, as does the kill switch on the handlebars. When not running, I have no lights, no clicking, nothing...... Any suggestions on what to check would be great

thanks
 

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The battery should read around 12-12.5 volts with the engine off.
 

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Agreed, you should have 12.5 volts sounds like a bad battery and or possibly a stator not charging
 

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Have you tried checking each component for continuity? eg. clutch switch, killswitch, starter button? Like Helmut said check the battery voltage maybe put a battery charger on it and try to start it and see what it does. even with 11 volts you should atleast have a neutral light. it's possible you have a bad neutral switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It has been sitting without being ridden for at least a couple weeks. I have been starting it occasionally, not running it long, then shutting it off. Using the key and starter button. I think I've tried to check the neutral switch, but i still get nothing.... disconnect the wire and touch to the frame / engine block and the light should come on, Right??

I can bump start it, then everything works properly. lights, switches, etc. Just won't power up without the engine running.
 

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I think I've tried to check the neutral switch, but i still get nothing.... disconnect the wire and touch to the frame / engine block and the light should come on, Right??
Yeah, if you ground that wire, the neutral light should come on. That's all the neutral switch does, is to ground the circuit when you put it in neutral.
 

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start with a fresh battery..if you put a new battery..or even a fully charged battery in..and you still don't get a nuetral light..then you got a open ground somewhere that is draining your battery. if you can get the bike to run long enough to put a volt meter on the battery..rev the bike..watch the meter..it should top out about 14 or so volts..if it doesn't..then your stator..or reg/rec is bad...try not to run your bike on a dead battery...this will make your stator work to hard..and sooner or later..fry it. if this hasn't happened already !.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
clutch switch is bypassed...
it has started fine up until Thursday. I was working on the headlight switch because the guy that owned before me had an issue with the switch not working and wired in an secondary switch for the headlights. It bugged me so I got the lights working properly with the handlebar switch, cut out his hack-job and it was all good to go for a day or so, then pow, went to start it, it half turned over and then i had nothing.... and here we are. :wub:
Probably should have just left it alone, and I wouldn't be having this issue.... oh well, live and learn. (but now i need to fix it.)

why does everything work properly when it's running, but it won't start without pushing it down a hill?
 

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why does everything work properly when it's running, but it won't start without pushing it down a hill?
When it's running, power is coming from the stator. Somehow you're not getting power from the battery or the battery, itself, is bad.
 

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when you went to ( fix his hack job )..you may or may not have left a wire wraped up..and it's touching bare metal..and if this wire is hot at all times..it will drain the battery. re-check your wiring..make sure everything is wraped up..get a fresh battery..or at least make sure your old battery will hold a charge..also check your stator, reg/rec..if any one of those two are bad..you can put new batteries in all day long..and it will be dead before you can say ******* !..lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have power to the key switch... red wire from battery to key...... All black wire has continuity with key on, black & white wire has nothing. Should it have continuity with the red wire from the key also??
 

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I have power to the key switch... red wire from battery to key...... All black wire has continuity with key on, black & white wire has nothing. Should it have continuity with the red wire from the key also??
the black/white wire is for your coil only.
 

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I have power to the key switch... red wire from battery to key...... All black wire has continuity with key on, black & white wire has nothing. Should it have continuity with the red wire from the key also??
With the key switch on, the red and black wires should have continuity.

You should have power on the red wire to the keyswitch and when you turn the keyswitch on power should come back out the black wire and the black wire runs directly to the neutral light. Then the ground wire(light green) on the neutral light runs straight to the neutral switch and grounds the circuit, when in neutral. Check to make sure you have power on the black wire at the neutral light when the keyswitch is on. If you do, the problem has to be the light green wire that runs to the neutral switch or the neutral switch itself.
 

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I have power to the key switch... red wire from battery to key...... All black wire has continuity with key on, black & white wire has nothing. Should it have continuity with the red wire from the key also??
the black/white wire is for your coil only.
The black and white wire coming out of the keyswitch should have continuity with the green wire coming out of the keyswitch when the key is off. That is to ground the ignition system, so it won't start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe it is just a low voltage issue, because when it is running, everything functions..... I'll put it on the charger for a couple hours tonight, and see how it does. Is it best to unhook the battery from the bike before charging, or does it matter? I've done it both ways before, but i want to do it right on this, and not mess anything else up.
 

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maybe the guy bypassed the light switch for a reason??? I think your whole issue is in that switch assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what's going on exactly, but I do know that I had it working 100% last Wednesday, then all of a sudden it just quit when I tried to start it just on a whim either wednesday night or thursday evening. If something in that switch got crossed somehow, what could I have blown that would keep it from starting with the button, but still run fine when bump started?? Single fuse after the starter solenoid is good. Have checked that repeatedly.

I also don't get a neutral light when the lt green wire is touched to the frame / block. but the wire is good from the block to the connector up by the Neutral light. Neutral light comes on and functions properly when the engine is running.
 

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If you jump the Yellow/green wire on the clutch switch to the green on the clutch switch that should bypass the clutch switch. Now if you hook an alligator clip to the light green and ground it that will bypass the neutral switch there is a diode inline on the neutral light and neutral switch. so you may have to ground the light green wire at the switch.. if you take another jumper and connect one end to the Yellow/Red at the starter/light switch and touch the other end to the black what happens? That should bypass the push button. It's good practice to have a multimeter handy to check the voltage of wires before touching anything together, you can very easily fry a component like the CDI
 

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I don't understand why the neutral light isn't working. If the neutral light works with the engine running, that would have to mean that the ground wire (light green) is good and is grounding the neutral light when in neutral. If you have power to the key switch and power coming back out of the black wire from the keyswitch when the keyswitch is on, it should work, because the black wire is the hot wire to the neutral light and that would complete the circuit.
 
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