[chantman08]

Hi Guys,

So I have a ‘98 Fourtrax 300 4x4. I noticed last fall it was having a hard time with the electric start, almost like the battery was dying. So this spring I put in a new battery, and I’m having the same issue. I turned the key, the lights came on, I pressed the started button, it cranked weakly for a second and stopped and the lights went off. I could not get it to light up again. Thankfully it still starts with one kick, but I would like to get the electric start working again. Do you think it’s a starter issue? Or some other wiring problem?

Thanks!

-Mike

 

[retro]

It sounds like corroded/dirty/loose battery cables and ground cables. Start by removing each cable from the battery, solenoid, starter, engine ground and frame grounds and shine them all up with a wire brush or whatever it takes to get them clean. Shine up the surfaces where each attach too, before bolting them back down.

 

[fishfiles]

if you were to use jumper cables and go from the battery to the starter , first just jump positive , if that don't work , then negative and positive , it would show you quickly if the stater and battery are good ---------- I would look at the ground cable at the rear of the starter first , then the solenoid -------what happens when you try to kick start it

 

[chantman08]

Thank you guys! I will try checking the connections to the solenoid and starter. Kick start will start it immediately. I believe you’re right, some sort of corrosion etc. I’ll keep you posted!

 

[jdp]

If it was me I would check the connections and put diaeltric grease on them, and rebuild the starter I've done it on mine and my grandpas 95 4WD, not hard at all, just make sure you have the right brush set, one is R and one is L so make sure you take the old one with you. I dont only pull the starter, I take the cover off and inspect the gears and bushings. If I remember G&H Discount Atv Supply has kits for cheap. When putting it back in put a DAB of grease on the seal and a LIGHT FILM on the bendix gear. Then you'll be ready to roll and be starting fine.

 

[machinecrook]

Had the exact same problem happen with me this weekend. I was stuck and winched myself out and burnt a fuse. So when I was replacing the fuse I brought the battery inside and let it charge with a smart charger. Slapped in a 20A fuse (used to be a 25A) and plugged the battery in (12.76 Volts). The light lit up, tried to start it, weak attempt and the neutral gradually went away.

Brought the battery back inside and the smart charger went on "Battery Reconditioning" ... There was quite a bit of corrosion on the positive battery terminal. Is my battery done?

Have not tried to reinstall battery, will do so tonight.

 

[chantman08]

Oddly enough I had a similar problem with my mower. Got ready to replace the solenoid, realized I ordered the wrong one, bolted the old solenoid back on, and it started just fine. Must have knocked some corrosion off. I’ll get a brush and go to town!

 

[Camchate]

Your battery is new, but is it good?

 

[jdp]

^^ Like he said, many of us here use Battery Tender brand products, they make a plus and a junior and many others. But the Plus and junior are the 2 most popular for atvs or motorcycles. I'll be honest I like my junior but it has 2 problems. 1. if your using it alot or moving the cord, the cord to plug in on the wall connection gets weak, 2.the design is fairly good but I found with mine at least something came loose and is rattling inside only after snugging the screws cause they were getting loose. I had to put a zip tie around it to hold it together just incase.

The plus charges a little faster and it is "temp compensated" that means the colder it gets the more juice it puts out, the warmer it gets the less it puts out. Amazon has them as well as wally world. I'm going to get one for my 300 and use the junior for the rider mower, Cause I'm in my toolbox alot and my 300 is right beside it, I almost broke the junior a few times by moving around or unplugging the cord and opening my box. So this week or next when my check comes in, Battery tender plus it is.

 

[Okie]

Do you have a volt ohm meter (vom) or DMM Digital Multimeter?

If so you can take voltage reading so as to get some logical results and to eliminate lots of guessing.

You can get either a VOM or DMM at wally world for about $15. (and you can then review on-line how to do battery volatage tests while cranking the engine.

A really good electrical tester for mechanics is a UEI DL49. (about $80 when new) It reads to 400 DC amps by just clamp on. You can test starter draw amps, battery voltage while cranking, etc. The meter is auto ranging. You can review (read) a owners manual a UEI.com. This tester was built especially for Heat/air techs and mechanics.

Also using a GOOD set of jumper cables as fish files suggests is good method of finding bad connections, weak starters and bad solenoids, etc.
Jumping from a 12v auto battery can also be used. Wear safety glasses and stay safe. Battery explosions is a bad thing when around the face or your crotch.