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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, am a nebie to all this! and seeking a little help.

I have aquired a TRX300 year 89, struggling to get fired up, seems to flood pretty easily, the spark plug when out of the head sparks in-frequently and in all directions (and even without earthing against the cylinder casing is this normal?), is the poor spark causing the flooding? Will get a new plug in the morning but want to ready in case its more than that!

Appriciate any posts, thanks chaps.
 

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If it's got a weak spark, it definitely won't run right. Yeah, I would try a new spark plug, first.
 

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Hi all, am a nebie to all this! and seeking a little help.

I have aquired a TRX300 year 89, struggling to get fired up, seems to flood pretty easily, the spark plug when out of the head sparks in-frequently and in all directions (and even without earthing against the cylinder casing is this normal?), is the poor spark causing the flooding? Will get a new plug in the morning but want to ready in case its more than that!

Appriciate any posts, thanks chaps.
first off..never ever crank an engine with the spark plug not grounded to the bike..it will fry the c.d.i veryyyyyy quickly, second..if your bike is only firing every other crank at the push of the button..sounds like your c.d.i is about to go out, if it was the pick up coil..it wouldn't fire at all, now..it could also be our stator on the firing side, stators use 2 sides..one for the electronics, such as the c.d.i and the other side for the lights...i'm putting my money on the c.d.i...just have all that i mentioned checked.
 

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Thanks all, this forum is so helpful!! Will try a new plug later, then ivestigate the cdi, thanks again.
the reason i mentioned the c.d.i is, i've ran into bikes i was working on, and put another c.d.i from a different year model on it, the bike would fire one time, then stop, then after i hit the start button..it would do the same thing, fire once..then quit, morel of the story, even if the bikes are still honda 300's, does not mean the c.d.i's will match, so.if you can..try to find the same year amd make, other wise..your wasteing your time on the c.d.i.
 

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Thanks all, this forum is so helpful!! Will try a new plug later, then ivestigate the cdi, thanks again.
the reason i mentioned the c.d.i is, i've ran into bikes i was working on, and put another c.d.i from a different year model on it, the bike would fire one time, then stop, then after i hit the start button..it would do the same thing, fire once..then quit, morel of the story, even if the bikes are still honda 300's, does not mean the c.d.i's will match, so.if you can..try to find the same year amd make, other wise..your wasteing your time on the c.d.i.
You're right Shadetree. All of the Honda 300's CDI's are not the same. I know that for a fact.
 

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Thanks all, this forum is so helpful!! Will try a new plug later, then ivestigate the cdi, thanks again.
the reason i mentioned the c.d.i is, i've ran into bikes i was working on, and put another c.d.i from a different year model on it, the bike would fire one time, then stop, then after i hit the start button..it would do the same thing, fire once..then quit, morel of the story, even if the bikes are still honda 300's, does not mean the c.d.i's will match, so.if you can..try to find the same year amd make, other wise..your wasteing your time on the c.d.i.
You're right Shadetree. All of the Honda 300's CDI's are not the same. I know that for a fact.
thanks helmut,,your petty smart yourself when it comes to these bikes, maybe we should charge a fee for our smarts ?..nahhh..j/k..i love giving good advice, and this place rocks when it comes to giving and getting advice, i'm just glad i found this forums sight..it has been super great helping others..i simpley love passing on what i've learned to others..trust me..i know what it feels like to get something fixed on your own..it's priceless !!!
 

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the reason i mentioned the c.d.i is, i've ran into bikes i was working on, and put another c.d.i from a different year model on it, the bike would fire one time, then stop, then after i hit the start button..it would do the same thing, fire once..then quit, morel of the story, even if the bikes are still honda 300's, does not mean the c.d.i's will match, so.if you can..try to find the same year amd make, other wise..your wasteing your time on the c.d.i.
You're right Shadetree. All of the Honda 300's CDI's are not the same. I know that for a fact.
thanks helmut,,your petty smart yourself when it comes to these bikes, maybe we should charge a fee for our smarts ?..nahhh..j/k..i love giving good advice, and this place rocks when it comes to giving and getting advice, i'm just glad i found this forums sight..it has been super great helping others..i simpley love passing on what i've learned to others..trust me..i know what it feels like to get something fixed on your own..it's priceless !!!
Yeah, I'm more than happy to help someone out if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright lads, update- changed plug and it fires ok now, so I think the cdi is ok! but thanks for the warning Shadetree!
Anyway took it for a quick spin and firstly it seems a little loud, is there a way of checking the baffles without obviously taking it off and shaking it etc? the other thing I noticed it that when I change gear the pedal doenst spring back into position and I need to lift it up a little with my foot so it engages into gear.....does that make any sense?? oh and one more thing..the choke lever seems tight, I lubed the cable and sheath and thats ok but its still seems tight, any ideas?
Really appreciate all this lads!!
Hope I can help someone one day when I learn a bit more!!
 

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I'd say the shift shaft welds are broken but could be wrong.
 

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Alright lads, update- changed plug and it fires ok now, so I think the cdi is ok! but thanks for the warning Shadetree!
Anyway took it for a quick spin and firstly it seems a little loud, is there a way of checking the baffles without obviously taking it off and shaking it etc? the other thing I noticed it that when I change gear the pedal doenst spring back into position and I need to lift it up a little with my foot so it engages into gear.....does that make any sense?? oh and one more thing..the choke lever seems tight, I lubed the cable and sheath and thats ok but its still seems tight, any ideas?
Really appreciate all this lads!!
Hope I can help someone one day when I learn a bit more!!
I don't know about the muffler, but it probably needs to be replaced if it's loud. Your choke cable probably needs replaced also. As far as the shifter, make sure it is tightened down on the shift shaft good, but I would bet that something is out of place on the inside. You'll probably have to take the side cover off and look. It has a spring in there that could be out of place.
 

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Alright lads, update- changed plug and it fires ok now, so I think the cdi is ok! but thanks for the warning Shadetree!
Anyway took it for a quick spin and firstly it seems a little loud, is there a way of checking the baffles without obviously taking it off and shaking it etc? the other thing I noticed it that when I change gear the pedal doenst spring back into position and I need to lift it up a little with my foot so it engages into gear.....does that make any sense?? oh and one more thing..the choke lever seems tight, I lubed the cable and sheath and thats ok but its still seems tight, any ideas?
Really appreciate all this lads!!
Hope I can help someone one day when I learn a bit more!!
your welcome dooley, as far as the choke cable goes..you can either buy a new one..thier around 40 bucks from the dealer, or you can take that one off, put the the end with the plastic screw cap in a vise verticaly, spray wd-40 until you fill the cap up, then from the other end of the cable..work the cable back and forth..this will free the cable up..might take awhile, but..it sure beats spending 40 bucks. for the shifter problem..sounds like your gear shift return spring is either weak..or broke..you won't know this until you take the side case off..and inspect the spring..it kinda looks like a fork..with two long sides to it..bent around..and about 1 or 2 inches long..when you shift gears..it returns the shift lever back to the center...so..if it's bent..broke..or worn really bad..you may need to replace it. for the muffler..there is no service to them..other than taking the spark arester off..sounds like it's time for a new muffler..of course..unless your header < pipe leading to muffler > is leaking at the connection into the muffler ?..other than that..replace the muffler..thats about all i know to tell ya..good luck !
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi chaps, once again thanks for all your advice!

Right, I removed the side case, and seems that the spring isnt broken (although cant really tell if its weak) i made the mistake of not looking to see the position of the folk shape plate as you described Shadetree, so the gear shift spindle pulled out of its other end, I realise the it doesnt matter how the spindle goes back in because I can change the position of the pedal afterwards, but the plate is what I am now wandering! I put it back together one way and I'm not really sure whether is has helped because it seems to spring back better (although thats just by using my hand and rocking the back wheels, so not entirely sure yet) but I wandered if maybe someone had previously took it apart and put it back together wrongly and thats where my problem is.
Or is this just wishfull thinking? does anyone know where the plate should be positioned?
Many thanks all!
 

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Hi chaps, once again thanks for all your advice!

Right, I removed the side case, and seems that the spring isnt broken (although cant really tell if its weak) i made the mistake of not looking to see the position of the folk shape plate as you described Shadetree, so the gear shift spindle pulled out of its other end, I realise the it doesnt matter how the spindle goes back in because I can change the position of the pedal afterwards, but the plate is what I am now wandering! I put it back together one way and I'm not really sure whether is has helped because it seems to spring back better (although thats just by using my hand and rocking the back wheels, so not entirely sure yet) but I wandered if maybe someone had previously took it apart and put it back together wrongly and thats where my problem is.
Or is this just wishfull thinking? does anyone know where the plate should be positioned?
Many thanks all!
It DOES matter how the spindle or shift shaft goes in, because the other end of the shaft has splines on it that has to engage an internal clutch lever behind the right side cover. That internal clutch lever has a punch mark on it and the crankcase has an index mark on it. Those have to be lined up or the clutch lever will be out of time and will not engage and disengage the clutches correctly. If you pull that shift shaft out any at all, you will need to pull the right side cover off and put the internal clutch lever in time. Make sure you have the shift shaft in correctly and make sure you put the left side cover back on, before you pull the right side cover off. If you don't the shift shaft can move out of position. If it moves out of position you will have to pull the right cover back off again and redo it.

I've explained how this works in two other threads, recently. You can find them and read them and I explained how to fix this. The post might be titled Fourtrax 250 or Fourtrax 300 shifting or transmission problems or something to that effect. The Fourtrax 250 and the Fourtrax 300 both, work the same way. It's the same process to fix them.

If you read those other posts and they don't tell you what you need to know, then ask me and I will try to help you.
 

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Hi chaps, once again thanks for all your advice!

Right, I removed the side case, and seems that the spring isnt broken (although cant really tell if its weak) i made the mistake of not looking to see the position of the folk shape plate as you described Shadetree, so the gear shift spindle pulled out of its other end, I realise the it doesnt matter how the spindle goes back in because I can change the position of the pedal afterwards, but the plate is what I am now wandering! I put it back together one way and I'm not really sure whether is has helped because it seems to spring back better (although thats just by using my hand and rocking the back wheels, so not entirely sure yet) but I wandered if maybe someone had previously took it apart and put it back together wrongly and thats where my problem is.
Or is this just wishfull thinking? does anyone know where the plate should be positioned?
Many thanks all!
It DOES matter how the spindle or shift shaft goes in, because the other end of the shaft has splines on it that has to engage an internal clutch lever behind the right side cover. That internal clutch lever has a punch mark on it and the crankcase has an index mark on it. Those have to be lined up or the clutch lever will be out of time and will not engage and disengage the clutches correctly. If you pull that shift shaft out any at all, you will need to pull the right side cover off and put the internal clutch lever in time. Make sure you have the shift shaft in correctly and make sure you put the left side cover back on, before you pull the right side cover off. If you don't the shift shaft can move out of position. If it moves out of position you will have to pull the right cover back off again and redo it.

I've explained how this works in two other posts, recently. You can find them and read them and I explained how to fix this. The post might be titled Fourtrax 250 shifting problems or something to that effect. The Fourtrax 250 and the Fourtrax 300 both, work the same way. It's the same process to fix them.
Very true about the covers. I had to learn the hard way.
 

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