[bcsman]

I have had a drip from the carb for a couple weeks. Been running well up to a few days ago, but all of a sudden decided not to start. It will crank fine and get a pop but doesn't stay running. It's pretty cold around here now so I tried to choke and it didn't help. I pushed it out from the garage in the sun and let sit for a couple hours and retried, but same result. Generally when out in the sun it doesn't need a choke to start even first off. I figured its either spark or fuel, seemed to be getting fuel as it was dripping from the carb. I did take the plug out and it was wet with fuel so I put in a spare, but still no start. I removed again and shorted to the engine and was getting a blue spark. So seems like its getting flooded with fuel, @shadetree said before he thought the float was stuck. So working on removing the carb, almost done. Just have to remove the choke and throttle. I don't feel comfy taking it all apart and not losing anything so called a local shop. Hopefully get it over there tomorrow. Probably would be done but couldn't find my 10 mm wrench for the throttle, but located so will finish in the morning.

 

[shadetree]

be sure to check your engine oil for any fuel that may have ran down into lower engine !.

 

[bcsman]

be sure to check your engine oil for any fuel that may have ran down into lower engine !.

Never would have thought of that, thank you....

How will I check that, smell, something on the dipstick??

 

[Goober]

Can you see the drip? Could be a leak from the primer plunger that’s pretty common. Although yeah a carb that’s 20 years old, the bowl seal is going to be pretty stiff too. Hopefully you don’t smell fuel in the oil.

Just insist on OEM parts that’s something peculiar I noticed at one shop, one time only. I guess I wasn’t clear when I asked them to replace the hand grips and the tech put a funky aftermarket set on it.

If you change your mind and want us to help you through it just holler.

 

[bcsman]

Nope not the primer have already replaced that when it leaked. Can't really tell where its leaking but dripped along the bottom and onto the heater wires. It's all removed and over to the shop, figure too many little parts to lose or put back in the right spot!! And yes your pic looks exactly like my carb Goober.

I don't smell fuel on the dipstick but am gonna change it and the filter just because. Prolly be down for a week or so waiting for the carb to get back.

The only thing that happened removing the carb was the SE valve came apart when I pull it out. It seemed to be kinda stuck, but thankfully the spring stayed intact so I was able to reattach. Got the little ball back into the valve and it works with the choke knob so think its OK.

 

[joeyou]

Getting it on and off the engine is the hard part! You can rebuild it yourself!!!! Leaking is usually a sign of bad/stuck needle and seat.

 

[LedFTed]

be sure to check your engine oil for any fuel that may have ran down into lower engine !.

Never would have thought of that, thank you....

How will I check that, smell, something on the dipstick??

smell is one thing, though it still could be hard to tell only by that, so the oil, and just engine use could leave a scent of gas..
texture,, gas does thin the oil out. i remember when new oil was real tacky. now, new oils, they are not so much tacky.
i dont think oil should smell like gas, but, others do here. a smell left over from engine use.
in the 50s, 10 weight oil, was the equivalent, of 30 wt. in the 70s., an beyond, for a while. the new oils are just not the same. thats how i understand it, could be wrong, i just remember when motor oil was real tacky. perhaps someone here could clarify matters..
i'd like to hear opinions;;;

 

[bcsman]

I got the carb back today, he said the seal for the float area was very deteriorated and there was some dirt in the jets. So he could see why fuel was leaking out of it. I did get it reinstalled, I think everything is back to where it came from. Really not alot to reconnect. I also installed an inline fuel filter, not much room to fit it in and be able to replace easily. I did not put all the panels back on and will give it a go tomorrow after church. Figured leaving off would make things better in case I have to get access. I'm sure I got the throttle cable reattached correctly and hopefully same for the SE valve. I did put a little lithium grease on the SE valve before inserting.

I do have one question, is there any way to determine if the SE valve is fully closing with the choke button all the way in? My spark plug was pretty black when I removed so seemed to be running rich. The SE valve has a small pin that seats when closed and I don't know any way to know if it is fully in.

 

[LedFTed]

far as i know, black is rich, too rich. the 2000es 450 used to backfire all the time while decelerating. most sites i when to said its normal for this to happen. WELL, it aint..
i had a shop rebuild my carb, unfortunately, the guy was not all that good at it, even left out some parts, of the carb. i had to rebuild it again. least the weather was warmer. atv didnt backfire after that. shes been sitting for a while, last i fired er up, still ran smooth.
i hope it still does.

 

[bcsman]

Mine never backfired but seemed to be rich. So probably fuel mixture screw too far out or choke not closing fully I would think. According to the person who worked on the carb the main fuel screw was out 2 1/2 turns which is a tad less than the service manual setting, 2 5/8.

 

[retro]

Adjust the SE cable to have 1/16"-1/8" slack minimum, with the choke released. You can feel cable slack at the top of the plunger where the cable enters, while operating the choke on and off.

 

[bcsman]

Well crap still can't get her running. In all actuality it seems to be doing the same before I had the carb worked on. The only difference is fuel isn't leaking from carb now. The carb wasn't rebuilt as he didn't think it needed new parts. I'm not sure what is going on now. It will fire for a short second or two and quit, doesn't seem to matter if choked or not. And when turning over, especially to begin with, it kinda hesitates. Doesn't sound the same when cranking as it did before the problems. So prolly gonna call tomorrow to see if I can trailer it over to the shop. I did charge the battery up but didn't take much, that seems ok. I prolly haven't done a very good job describing my problems, not sure how to phrase it. Might start a new post....