Honda ATV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! New to the forums. I just got a 2006 honda trx250te from my folks. I have 2 issues. The 1st is shifting problems. The electric shift will shift fine as long as im up shifting. The down shifting will not work on the electric side. It does however down shift if i do it manually with the wrench. Also, the whole time the atv shows 1st gear and neutral light are both on. So if im in 5th gear, 5th 1st and the neutral light are all on. Its not a transmission problem, so where do i start?

As for the other problem, ive got a little noise when it idles. Its a slight chatter. I had one do it before and my uncle adjusted some lifters or something and it fixed it, but im no mechanic so i dont know what it is. If given steps, i dont mind to attempt anything. I was going to upload the video of the noise, but i only see an option for pictures. How can i share with yall the sound its making? Thanks in advance!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Welcome Mo!
To use a video first upload it to YouTube then paste the given link in your comment and let us get a look at it. Also show where the wires go to your transmission in the back of the engine and lets see what kind of shape they are in. Check the boot on those wires to be sure moisture isn't getting in to cause havoc.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
There are wires coming out of the back of the engine on top and bottom. Check the boots are good and not cracked. If so then remove and moisture as best you can clean the area and put silicone to seal the boot area. Wait a while till everything dries and try it. If you see any other areas of bare wire tape those up. Also check your fuses.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
You do have quite the chatter. Here are some tips and I'll post a repair manual as well. You need a 10mm socket and feeler gauges. If you don't feel comfortable doing any this then don't do it at all and get help if you can.

A couple critical things you should know about valve adjustment.
1. Always adjust valves on a stone cold engine. Never after it's been started or ran within a few hours.
2. When you tighten down on your setting get them really tight but make certain your setting didn't change while tightening and ALWAYS check it again with your gage after tightening. A touch loose is better than a touch tight. Too tight can make your engine rev and unexpectanty kill.
3. Know your gage! Look at your feeler gage and you'll see each one has two measurements stamped on it. One is inches the other is metric. The one gage Also make sure you accidentally dont have two gages stuck together lol these things are thin you can hardly tell.
4, Remove the spark plug ... it makes a lot easier finding the T without fighting the compression in the engine.
5. You MUST be on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke.
Here's a video of a couple ways to check that you are on the correct stroke.
Do not disregard ANY of these steps. Actually confirm you did all 5 of them and you'll have it perfect.
watch out for that o ring on head cover you don't want to lose it lol

https://youtu.be/FC0xWo4GSX0
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, the wires appear to be in good shape from what i can tell. I will try to do the adjustment this weekend on the chatter. What fuse am i checking for the shifter? I see several wires that have fuses and not sure which is for the shifter.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, so i have gotten somewhere with the wires. We traced them down and seem to know where the problem is but , not knowing much about relays, not sure why the problem is still happening. In the picture below, we found out that a and b are the 2 wires responsible for my down shift issue. So it does try to work, but something in the box is messed up. Its like the circuit isnt completing. If we take both a and b out and wire them together, the down shift will work, but then my up shift will quit working. Now this harness is something that isnt factory, i dont believe. All the wires are individually plugged in, almost as if there was a male harness and it was cut off. So what do i do from here? I want this to work right. Oh, we also left them both plugged into the harness and then split into them together, but it kept blowing a fuse, so that was a no go. We are close, but i need expert help here!
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
38,589 Posts
Ok, so i have gotten somewhere with the wires. We traced them down and seem to know where the problem is but , not knowing much about relays, not sure why the problem is still happening. In the picture below, we found out that a and b are the 2 wires responsible for my down shift issue. So it does try to work, but something in the box is messed up. Its like the circuit isnt completing. If we take both a and b out and wire them together, the down shift will work, but then my up shift will quit working. Now this harness is something that isnt factory, i dont believe. All the wires are individually plugged in, almost as if there was a male harness and it was cut off. So what do i do from here? I want this to work right. Oh, we also left them both plugged into the harness and then split into them together, but it kept blowing a fuse, so that was a no go. We are close, but i need expert help here!
instead of pulling all your hair out ( unless your old like me, and don't have much left to pull out ? ), why not just buy a new oem wire harness, and be done with the guess work !. some one was stupid, and tried to '' jerry '' rig it, and now your stuck with trying to make it work, and it's not designed to work half azzed !..lol.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My aim is to get it to work rigt, and if a new oem harmess is what it takes, thats what i will do. Problem is i dont know what to search for to fine a new one lol. Are these 4 wheelers supoose to crank in gear? This one does. I was thinking maybe they done some of this to bypass a sensor so it would start in gear. Anyhow, what do i search for? I hate have to manually shift down every time i ride.

Also, i tested out my pull rope yesterday incase i get out with a bad battery. It didnt seem to want to crank it, but the battery cranks it just fine. Any reason why?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Wow what a mess! Here's a used harness on eBay that fits your bike if it's a 2006 trx250te for $40. This 2007 but fits your too.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/2007-HONDA-R...018816?hash=item1ed1de3200:g:9esAAOSw0ndZ6ktG
I suggested you order it before someone gets it because a new one is over $200
https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/32100-HM8-B10?ref=20fc639357bb97ffe407cfd24a7bcdf27b6cdb8f

As far as pull rope it won't crank unless your carb and valves are in optimal condition since both cause the bike the need to turn over more in order to start.
And no these bikes are not designed to start in gear but have an option of holding the front brake while starting to start in gear.

Supporting non factory supported methods of wiring or components isn't usually something you'll find in this forum. Only advise available would be to check clean and dielectric grease all connections.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok im back at it again. Finally had some free time this weekend to look over the atv. Took plastics off as well as tank to get down to adjust the valves. Mine has the caps, so i removed them as well as removed the spark plug. Found the T mark, but cannot get it to stop on it. As it gets there, i will automatically roll past it just a hair. And its driving me nuts. Also, its hard to adjust the lifters under those caps. Can i remove that whole top section and adjust them?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
38,589 Posts
Ok im back at it again. Finally had some free time this weekend to look over the atv. Took plastics off as well as tank to get down to adjust the valves. Mine has the caps, so i removed them as well as removed the spark plug. Found the T mark, but cannot get it to stop on it. As it gets there, i will automatically roll past it just a hair. And its driving me nuts. Also, its hard to adjust the lifters under those caps. Can i remove that whole top section and adjust them?
no, you can not remove the rocker box to adjust the valves. the trick to keeping the crank from spinning past the T mark ?, put a ratchet and socket on the fly wheel bolt, set it to hold it in place while you get the T mark where you need it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So i need to take the pull rope off to set the T? Its hard to get the feeler gauge in there. I bent it to get it under, but its hard to feel the resistance. I tried adjusting it as it barely passed the T, but of course that didnt work.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Can someone please respond to me. Im beyond frustrated with this 4 wheeler. I got it to stop on the T. Got it set, looked down only to notice it had went slightly past the T. What do i need to do to get it to stay? Do i need to remove the pull rope cover? I can only get to 1 screw on the pull rope cover, which is the one you can see in the picture. I have no problem getting it to stop on the F mark. Any way i can set it from there? Or does it have to be on the T
 

Attachments

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
I assume you took the spark plug out..? The "T" doesn't have to be perfectly lined up just fairly close. That is, as long as you are lining up the T on the compression stroke, rather than the exhaust stroke. Both valves should be fully closed when lining up the T mark. Let us know how it goes if you can.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, i have removed the plug. I have never done anything like this before. Lol. But i dont mind to listen, learn, and try. If i mess it up too bad, i can always pay someone to fix my mess. But this seems somthing simple. I just thought i could get it to the T mark like the youtube videos showed and take it from there. So, how do i know if i have it on the right stroke? I thought about tying a rope to the flywheel and getting it to the T mark then tying the other end to the frame to hold it in place.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top