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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the bolt in it fell out. but also at the same time i noticed most of the groves are striped out on the shifter and shifter assembley itself.

i cant weld it because then i wont be able to get that side of the case off, correct???

so is my only option to get another bolt, tighten it down as much as a can and maybe put it on with some jb weld also?

open to ideas here.
 

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If the splines aren't worn too bad, you might be able to use a dremel to grind a wider gap in the shifter where the bolt goes through to draw it together. That will let it draw together tighter on the shift shaft. If the splines are worn too bad to do this, then you could weld it and then the next time you need to take the side cover off, you could just cut it off, because you will need to replace the shaft and the shifter, anyway. If you do weld it, take a shop rag soaked in water and wrap around the shaft next to the engine so you don't melt the rubber seal.

I've never tried JB Weld on a loose shifter before, because I figured it wouldn't hold, but I could be wrong.

If the threads in the shifter are stripped out, you can just get a longer bolt that will go all the way through the shifter and put a nut on the end of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i jb welded it last night but i did not mix it all that great and it did not dry all that hard and of course gave way. i just tried it again tho so we will see what happens, but i dont think it will hold either.


i did not think of cutting it off, i might just weld it if i can not get this to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
also, there is some splines left on it. some places it rounded off, some places it will grab, some what. if i get another bolt it might just work.

i kinda just wanna fix it and be dont with it tho. i think im gonna weld. it.
 

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If the splines aren't worn too bad, you might be able to use a dremel to grind a wider gap in the shifter where the bolt goes through to draw it together. That will let it draw together tighter on the shift shaft. If the splines are worn too bad to do this, then you could weld it and then the next time you need to take the side cover off, you could just cut it off, because you will need to replace the shaft and the shifter, anyway. If you do weld it, take a shop rag soaked in water and wrap around the shaft next to the engine so you don't melt the rubber seal.

I've never tried JB Weld on a loose shifter before, because I figured it wouldn't hold, but I could be wrong.

If the threads in the shifter are stripped out, you can just get a longer bolt that will go all the way through the shifter and put a nut on the end of it.
:hail: Helmut, Could not have said it better
 

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Just a a spot weld at the top and bottom of the shifter where its flush on the out side, when you need to replace it just grind the spot welds off that way you won't heat the shaft up and melt the oil seal on the shift shaft.
 

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Just a a spot weld at the top and bottom of the shifter where its flush on the out side, when you need to replace it just grind the spot welds off that way you won't heat the shaft up and melt the oil seal on the shift shaft.
Yeah, that would probably work. I've tried spot welding kickers before and it wouldn't hold, but there's a lot more force being applied to a kicker than there is to a shifter. A shifter would probably hold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i really wish i had a welder :/ this would already be fixed.


jb weld held for a while but once i starting riding it hard it gave way.


after cleaning up the shifter assemble its still got pretty good groves, a new bolt might just do the trick. i kinda want a more permanent solution tho. that way i aint gotta worry about this again.
 

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i really wish i had a welder :/ this would already be fixed.


jb weld held for a while but once i starting riding it hard it gave way.


after cleaning up the shifter assemble its still got pretty good groves, a new bolt might just do the trick. i kinda want a more permanent solution tho. that way i aint gotta worry about this again.
Yeah, I didn't think the JB Weld would hold.

I would grind or cut that gap in the shifter, out wider and then put a new bolt in it. That will let it tighten down tighter on the shift shaft and it would be more likely to hold longer.
 

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A dremel tool with a little grinding wheel would probably work better for widening that gap on the shifter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
went to ace and got a new bolt. tightened till i pretty much closed the gap (but not all the way) and it was locked down tight with no play. went for a ride, got back and noticed it had losend up a tad. went a tightened it back up trying to close the gap completely and broke the damn bolt :/

went back out and ace was close, so went to lowes but they did not have metric bolts, the 1/4 would not thread in. soooooo i got a 1/4 bolt in the strongest gauge they have with a nut, and i got a 1/4 drill bit so im thinking about just drilling the hole out, putting the bolt thru putting the nut on the end and tighting it like that.

i have a few question tho. what kind of bolt is it originally??? i got one that only had the threads on the end, and in the gap in the middle where it goes between the two peices on the shifter the bolt right there actually makes some contact on the shifter assembly. so i used one with threads on the end, smooth in the middle where it contacts the assembly so it would not chew it up, and it still caused issuies with hitting on the shifter assembly, but not as bad if it was threaded all the way thru.

my other question is i guess i should have got a locking nut huh??
 

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Those bolts are too soft to try to draw that gap together much. I always take the shifter and lay the end down on a piece of steel or something and take a hammer and tap the end of it together where it will just start on the shaft. Then, I take a hammer and tap the shifter on up on the shaft where it goes. That way, the bolt don't have to draw it together, but just a little bit. I finally learned to do that after I twisted a bunch of them off.

I don't really understand your question, but it shouldn't matter what kind of bolt it is. There's a groove around the shifter that the bolts sits in, but it don't really matter if it has threads all the way up the bolt or not. If the bolt don't want to go all the way through the shifter, and you've already drilled the threads out of the shifter, just drill it out a little more where the bolt will go through. I don't know if I answered your question or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yea i had to hammer it on, but it almost did not want to go on.

after looking at it more there is a place where there is no groves on the assembly where the bolt probably goes. i just had a tuff time with that other bolt getting it to that point with the bolt already thru the shifter, guess i just need to hit it harder :D
 

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yea i had to hammer it on, but it almost did not want to go on.

after looking at it more there is a place where there is no groves on the assembly where the bolt probably goes. i just had a tuff time with that other bolt getting it to that point with the bolt already thru the shifter, guess i just need to hit it harder :D
No, don't try to hammer it on with the bolt already through the shifter. Put the shifter on first. There's a groove around the shaft that you line the hole in the shifter up with. Then put the bolt down through the hole in the shifter and it goes in the groove on the shaft. When trying to line the shifter up with the groove, look down through the hole in the shifter and you will be able to see when it's lined up. You'll never get it on if you try to put the bolt in the shifter first. The bolt fits in the groove in the shifter, so the shifter can't slide back off.
 

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Just tap the end of the shifter together to where it starts on the end of the shaft tight, without the bolt in the shifter. Then tap it on up on the shaft until the hole in the shifter lines up with the groove in the shaft. Then, just stick the bolt down through it. If the bolt don't want to go all the way through, that means the shifter ain't lined up with the groove in the shaft.
 
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