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Shadetree or Helmut......

2K views 19 replies 4 participants last post by  shadetree 
#1 ·
Ok, not to sound like I'm putting anyone else down, but you guy's seem to have most all the answers.... I have a '90 trx300fw that I'm getting ready to replace the front bearings on.... is there anything special I need to know or any schematics that will help me on the disassembly/assembly? I've never changed these in a quad before and don't know if I wanna wait on my buddy to help me. (I'm pretty mechanically inclined)...
 
#2 ·
It's pretty straightforward. Remove the brake drum and unbolt the brake backing plate from the knuckle and remove. Unbolt and remove the tie rod end from the knuckle. Next, unbolt the ball joints and remove the knuckle. To remove the top ball joint stud from the top of the knuckle, hit the side of the knuckle where the ball joint stud goes down through it with a hammer. You will need to hit it hard and quick and it should pop out. Remove the bottom the same way, except you will need to hit the a-arm where the ball joint stud goes through. You can buy a tool for this, but I've never needed one. If you do buy the tool, don't get the fork type tool, it will tear the rubber boots.

When you get the knuckle off, remove the seals and remove the snap ring that holds the bearing in. Now just knock the bearing out and replace with a new one. You will need a bearing driver or big socket or whatever you can find that is the same diameter as the outer race, so you can use it to knock the bearings out. When driving the new bearings in, make sure you don't hit the inner race, you will damage the bearing. Make sure you drive it straight. Don't forget to put your snap ring back in and new seals.

The two yellow arrows in the picture below will show you where to hit the knuckle and a-arm to remove the ball joints. Sometimes, it's easier if you use a pry bar to put a little upward pressure on the top a-arm when hitting the knuckle to remove the top ball joint from the knuckle. Also, it helps if you can get a pry bar in between the bottom a-arm and knuckle when removing the bottom ball joint from the a-arm.

 
#3 ·
holly crap helmut...i've never seen you type that many words in one place...you fealing ok ??..lmfaoooo..but yeah cable..what helmut said here to do. you will need a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings thats under the seals..other than that..easy to do.
 
#4 ·
i would like to add to helmuts answer..on the new bearings you baught..pull the seals out of them..and give them some more high temp grease in them...they don't come with alot from the dealers and so forth..sooo..give them alittle more grease in them.
 
#5 ·
holly crap helmut...i've never seen you type that many words in one place...you fealing ok ??
I didn't realize I had typed that much. LOL. And I did sneak a picture in there. LMAO.
 
#6 ·
holly crap helmut...i've never seen you type that many words in one place...you fealing ok ??
I didn't realize I had typed that much. LOL. And I did sneak a picture in there. LMAO.
i'm in shock !!!!..words..and a pic !..lmfaoooo.
 
#7 ·
swweeett.. You guy's are great! only problem right now is with my work schedule, I'm gonna have to go home tonight (after a cub scouts meeting with the oldest boy) and tear it apart, then go back to it probably wednesday and put it back together.. lol Thanks again for the help! sounds simple enough... *fingers crossed*
 
#8 ·
thanks !..yeah..it's an easy job..you shouldnt have any problems..the worst one might be you getting the knuckle out of the ball joints , top and lower..other than that..you shouldn't have any problems.
 
#9 ·
well, if it's anything like a car's ball joints, I'm skilled at replacing those (could never afford a truck that DIDN'T need them at one point or another lol). One other question, I also noticed that when I turn hard left, it acts like it's gotta short in the kill switch.. it starts sputtering bad and if I don't keep givin it gas, it stalls... I took the front plastics off and went over all the wiring under the column and everything appears to be ok... even cleaned all the contacts with electrode spray.... any common issues with this?
 
#10 ·
One other question, I also noticed that when I turn hard left, it acts like it's gotta short in the kill switch.. it starts sputtering bad and if I don't keep givin it gas, it stalls
Make sure the choke cable isn't binding when you cut the handlebars and making the choke come on or something. Also, I've seen shorts in the keyswitch do that, but usually it will just quit, instead of sputtering.
 
#11 ·
well, the choke isn't an issue.....it's non-existent.. lol has a primer on the bottom of the carb.. there's a choke switch, but no cable hooked up. only thing I could think of is a bare wire under the protective plasic wire cover? isn't a huge deal right now (at least not till I get the bearings on and brakes functional).
 
#12 ·
only thing I could think of is a bare wire under the protective plasic wire cover?
Yep, could be.
 
#14 ·
i hate doing them too..buttttttt..as bad as they are..they really are simple to trace..if you already have the front plastic off....start it up..turn the handle bars the way you went to get the sputtering..as your doing this..watch what moves..which wire gets in a bind..start wiggling the wire harness...as your doing this..if it acts up..then you know your close to the culpit !.
 
#15 ·
if i remember right..all your elec cables run on the left side of the gas tank..if it's an elec issue..your going to see worn spots somewhere around this area..if it was a throttle cable or choke issue ( yes..you mentioned there was no choke hooked up ) doesn't mean the choke isn't in the carb ??..cable might be gone from the handle bar..but the carb can still have the choke piston inside the carb ...and these cables all run through a metal holder so to speak around the front of the steering steem..i'd look all around this area..and see if in fact your choke cable ( any cable at all is still in the carb )..and it's binding when you turn.
 
#16 ·
Shadetree and Helmut are 2 of the best Utility guys on this forum IMO. I am glad we have them and their wealth of knowlege.
 
#17 ·
thank you trx...i'm just glad i can help out around here..helmut himself has taught me alot on here..and i'm sure i have taught him a thing or two !..just glad i can help ppl out here..as i know what it's like not being able to afford to take your atv to have it fixed at the dealers shop !!..and you surely know your sport atv's !!!..git-r-done !.
 
#18 ·
Thanks Moose, glad to help.
 
#19 ·
From everything I've seen so far, I have to agree with Moose.... now, I got the quad torn apart last night and much to my frustrations, found out I need a right hub and knuckle (idiot that owned it before musta rode the thing hard with NO bearing in the right side). plus all the ball joints are gonna get replaced while I'm at it and have the front end torn down. Looks like my 'quick fixer-upper' just turned into a project bike. lol Even after I priced all the parts, I'm still gonna have around $700-750 in the bike...still not a bad deal IMO.
 
#20 ·
i think i mentioned this in a post here..someone said they got thier ride for free..lmfaoooo..i told them..nothing is free..well..it might be up front..but..sooner or latter..its gonna cost us!!!!..been there..done that..soooooo many times!!!..lol..keep us posted..oh..if you need a knuckle..and want to use a used one..and can't find one..let me know..i think i've got one laying around somewhere in my bone yard ( alot of used atv's )..lol.
 
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