holly crap helmut...i've never seen you type that many words in one place...you fealing ok ??..lmfaoooo..but yeah cable..what helmut said here to do. you will need a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap rings thats under the seals..other than that..easy to do.It's pretty straightforward. Remove the brake drum and unbolt the brake backing plate from the knuckle and remove. Unbolt and remove the tie rod end from the knuckle. Next, unbolt the ball joints and remove the knuckle. To remove the top ball joint stud from the top of the knuckle, hit the side of the knuckle where the ball joint stud goes down through it with a hammer. You will need to hit it hard and quick and it should pop out. Remove the bottom the same way, except you will need to hit the a-arm where the ball joint stud goes through. You can buy a tool for this, but I've never needed one. If you do buy the tool, don't get the fork type tool, it will tear the rubber boots.
When you get the knuckle off, remove the seals and remove the snap ring that holds the bearing in. Now just knock the bearing out and replace with a new one. You will need a bearing driver or big socket or whatever you can find that is the same diameter as the outer race, so you can use it to knock the bearings out. When driving the new bearings in, make sure you don't hit the inner race, you will damage the bearing. Make sure you drive it straight. Don't forget to put your snap ring back in and new seals.
The two yellow arrows in the picture below will show you where to hit the knuckle and a-arm to remove the ball joints. Sometimes, it's easier if you use a pry bar to put a little upward pressure on the top a-arm when hitting the knuckle to remove the top ball joint from the knuckle. Also, it helps if you can get a pry bar in between the bottom a-arm and knuckle when removing the bottom ball joint from the a-arm.
i would like to add to helmuts answer..on the new bearings you baught..pull the seals out of them..and give them some more high temp grease in them...they don't come with alot from the dealers and so forth..sooo..give them alittle more grease in them.
i'm in shock !!!!..words..and a pic !..lmfaoooo.
thanks !..yeah..it's an easy job..you shouldnt have any problems..the worst one might be you getting the knuckle out of the ball joints , top and lower..other than that..you shouldn't have any problems.
i hate doing them too..buttttttt..as bad as they are..they really are simple to trace..if you already have the front plastic off....start it up..turn the handle bars the way you went to get the sputtering..as your doing this..watch what moves..which wire gets in a bind..start wiggling the wire harness...as your doing this..if it acts up..then you know your close to the culpit !.
thank you trx...i'm just glad i can help out around here..helmut himself has taught me alot on here..and i'm sure i have taught him a thing or two !..just glad i can help ppl out here..as i know what it's like not being able to afford to take your atv to have it fixed at the dealers shop !!..and you surely know your sport atv's !!!..git-r-done !.
i think i mentioned this in a post here..someone said they got thier ride for free..lmfaoooo..i told them..nothing is free..well..it might be up front..but..sooner or latter..its gonna cost us!!!!..been there..done that..soooooo many times!!!..lol..keep us posted..oh..if you need a knuckle..and want to use a used one..and can't find one..let me know..i think i've got one laying around somewhere in my bone yard ( alot of used atv's )..lol.
