[aTVitsnot]

A couple of years ago, I spread ice melt off the back of my rancher. Then I spent a few hours, every day for a few days, plowing 20 something inches off 200 yards of concrete. Then I parked the quad in the garage till the spring clean. Sometime that summer, I noticed a brown crust on the rear diff and axle housing. Oooops!

So now I'm ready to deal with it. I have a wet blaster to try out and a hand held sandblaster if it just sucks. I have wire brushes and flapper wheels and I will remove all traces of rotting metal, but then? Then comes the refinishing.

Anyone ever have anything resembling success with anything resembling this product?

 

[mrbb]

I have done MANY rusted up things with POR -15
and I have NOTHING but good to say about it
its WAY better than anything else I have tired over the yrs
and the stuff cures as hard as powder coating or better!
you can top coat it BEFORE it cures with any color you desire, using any PAINT you desisre


BUT< the problem with MOST all rusting things is
its a chemical process in itself
and once it starts, it will keep going in all UNTREATED places
like INSIDE the frame , where you just cannot get to it


I re did my whole frame and assorted parts on my atv about 8 yrs ago now, and it was pretty rusty(road slat driving atv for many many yrs and being parked outside wet often

and its STILL holding up SOLID now, after doing it with POR 15

I am sure the inside of the frame and such, has rust and maybe getting worse
but for a 20 yr old ATV in the Snow belt and salt belt
its doing better than most its age for sure LOL

have a look on Youtube or like, TONS of folks swear by it too!
not hard to do either!

 

[aTVitsnot]

I have enough POR to do this repair. A friend gave it to me for a different project 5 or 6 years back. I did a more labor intensive repair with a sandblast cabinet and a paint gun instead of slathering on some miracle concoction.

I'm feeling a bit more adventurous and may give it a try on the rancher. I'd love to hear that I din't have to do any more prep than a power wash to the afflicted area, but I don't really think I would believe my ears if I did.

Are you saying you just painted over the rust with POR15?

I wonder if my containers shelf life has expired?

 

[fishfiles]

the video don't work for me , says unavailable .

 

[aTVitsnot]

the video don't work for me , says unavailable .

me too. DOn't know why embedding or url is bugging on the forum.

Type https just before colon then copy and paste this address in your browser. ://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2WvsB3_Jg4&t=360s

 

[mrbb]

POR 15 is a 3 step process, you DO have to do some labor here, NOT a ton, but some, and I do NOT see anything working you JUST power wash and my reason is, JUST blasting with a power washer will NOT remove any grease and or like crap on metal and that stuff will NOT stick to grease and will not work about it
on a perfectly clean surface with JUST rust and it being DRY , OK I say it can maybe work'

POR 15 has a VERY short shelf life, I wouldn;t even try and use it if its that old(most likely hard as a rock now)
you need to clean metal of loose rust and crap
then DE grease and then you just paint over it, BUT before its dry, you HAVE to top coat it with what ever paint you wish, as its NOT UV treated , so NOT coating it will break down (they say) I have never seen it yet however! LOL
I always do TWO coats, one then when first gets tacky a second of POR 15 and then when that coat gets tacky, I top coat with rattle can ?? or what ever I want

and its DONE

I once coated a rusty shovel, Half of it
had 22 ton of gravel(2b) delivered and was filling a small ATV trailer and hauling to places I couldn;t get other equipment into
I shoveled about 12 ton of 2b gravel with shovel and it DIDN"T harm the stuff I painted on the shovel
so, Impressed, YUP 110% with how it held up and that was with ZERO prep to shovel, just cleaning off a brush. and wanted to see how well it would hold up!
had shovel LEFT outside for about 4 ysr and will the HALF I pained was rust free and used to shovel a LOT of different things over the 4 yrs
BUT buddy backed over shovel and threw it away before telling me, as I wanted it JUST to see how long it would take to rust back up over what I painted, but LOST the test subject (shovel)due to he took it away before I could tell him LOL

SO< POR 15 gets my vote over this stuff hands down, I KNOW it works if you DO your part right and by that I mean, PREP it correctly and its pretty much once and DONE!

here is when I did the frame on mine!

 

[aTVitsnot]

Thanks for that testimonial, mrbb. I appreciate the amount of time and effort that went into it. I'm going to give POR15 a try because of your enthusiasm.

 

[Jeepwm69]

POR15 is good stuff. I painted my battery racks in my golf carts with it. Normally the batteries eat the racks about every 10 years, so I tried the POR15 and the stuff is hard as a rock. I believe it actually adheres better if there is some rust.

Anyone here have a galvanizing tank close by? I know some Jeep guys have their frames dipped. Same issues we have here with the frames rusting from the inside out, especially up north.

 

[mrbb]

cheapest place to buy I have found is normally EBay, and get ALL three things, the por-15 in black(color I recommend) there marine clean and the metal prep
and MAKE sure all things are SUPER dry before coating, any moisture on things will result in bubbles and exposed metal?
if you prep right, this stuff lasts a LONG time!

and a tip, any UN used POR-15, its air cure, so, you need to cover the paint with something to get rid of all air exposed to it

I used simple kitchen plastic wrap, place on top of paint and fill can like to sides and all and THEN put lid back on, it will keep a few months or so
but it will dry sooner or later on you due to well air cures it, so once you open the can, its already exposed!
if you have a few things you want to do, DO them all at once
any rust on your frame or?? on car or truck
good time to touch that up now too

IF you cover any NUTS or Bolts, they will be a LOT harder to remove, or even get a socket on in the future
NOT impossible, but this stuff drys like a weld will and a wire wheel will be laughed at for a bit when trying to get it off

an example here, I had some 50 lb tractor weights on a work bench when I was paint this stuff, so, for kicks I painted the weights some of the POR 15 ran down and touched the bench top, not a LOT either
I left them there for a few weeks,
one day went to move them back on tractor
and the dam things were stuck to that bench, I needed a 4 ft pry bar to break them free, and only a few drops was holding them on !

DO NOT get this stuff on your fingers and hold them together for long, they will NOT come apart LOL

and if you get this stuff on you, and DON"T remove it with a good solvent FAST,
it AIN"T coming off for weeks or more!

its crazy how this stuff bonds things and sticks
I wish it wasn't as costly as it is,/cures after opening!
as I would paint a LOT more things with it
I have used to to hold things together too, on my skid steer, rubber vibration pads between things kept coming off, with construction adhesive and calking s/silicone and stuff

I used this stuff as was painting something one day just to see, and its NOT designed for this either LOL

and it has never come off since , its like welding with liquid here

 

[aTVitsnot]

I think I'll start a new thread and document the process as I work through it. If I do, I'll post a link in this one for future rust fighters to follow. And I'll link back to this one. Your shared experience should help anyone else dealing with metal decay choose his direction to correction.