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Discussion Starter #1

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If you prefer amsoil, then by all means buy it! that is a very good quality, long lasting oil. i wouldn't blink an eye extending the oil change interval to 2 years. (with a proper good filtering filter and filter magnet of course)

Rotella T6 is JASO MA certified, so you don't need to worry about it harming your wet clutch.

My theory with the Rincon and Rubicon is. the transmissions are very complex, and are driven off of oil pressure. Using a "thick" oil will only cause the pump to work "harder" to get it through the entire power plant....i currently am running valvoline 10w40 synthetic atv oil in my rubicon. It still takes a while to get the motor fully warm before i take off.....in comparison, when i owned a '03 rincon. i used rotella T6 5w40. It would take about a minute and a half to get it warm enough to operate. just the 5w makes a HUGE difference in these pressure fed tranny's.

I would bet a 0w40 would work exceptionally well in your rincon, amsoil 0w40 is a good oil to keep in your bike year round. there's no need to change it when the seasons of the year change.....just my 2 cents worth.
 

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Use the Rotella T6 5W40 synthetic in all my toys. I don't really need to do a "warm up" other than 15 - 20 seconds. However I just putt around slowly for the first couple minutes, don't like beating a cold engine. Oil still looks clean at the end of the year.
 

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just started with the rotella t6. put it in my rincon and ranger at with eps. both shift much smoother and so far i like it a lot better than the gn4. time will tell but i keep my atv's in a heated garage so warm up isn't a problem with the honda oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Rotella T6: 5W-40
Pour Point, °C (ASTM D97) -45
Kinematic Viscosity (ASTM D445) 169.5 *The lower the better (less overall VII).
@ 100°C mm2/s 14.2 *The higher the better.
@ 40°C mm2/s 87 *The higher the better.
Flash Point, (COC), °C (ASTM D92) 224


Amsoil Formula 4-Stroke 0w-40:
Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97) -51 ) -60°F
Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt (ASTM D-445) 14.7
Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt (ASTM D-445) 83.7
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270) 184
CCS Viscosity, cP @ (-35°C) (ASTM D-5293) 6139



Mobile 1 Motorcycle 10w-40:
Pour Point,°C (ASTM D97) -45°F
Kinematic Viscosity, cSt @ 100°C (ASTM D445) 13.1
Kinematic Viscosity, cSt @ 40°C (ASTM D445) 82.0
Viscosity Index 161

I now believe the Mobile 1 is the best choice (especially for the rincon and rubicon). I base this on the fact that there are less VII overall and less VII to break down in these quads. Probably the same for anything that uses engine oil in the tranny. I think the only way to really know what your oil viscosity is at ambient temperature is to run the oil in the quad for say 1,000 miles and then see if it is still the same weight. An oil rated at 10w40 will probably be a 10w30 at that point...depending on manufacturer. But, it has been documented that the mobile 1 is the only one (in the list) to stand the engine oil breakdown test.
 

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I use Mobil1 4T and love it. However, I have never heard anything bad about any of the synthetics which have been formulated for motorcycles and ATV's (with wet clutches). Most importantly, virtually everyone who uses synthetic oil in their cycles not only reports less frequent oil changes, but also report much smoother shifting, smoother and quieter transmission, and engine operation. Without a doubt, the extra cost of synthetic oil is definately justified. What synthetic you choose is up to you. Just make sure that if you put it into an ATV or motorcycle, that it is formulated for wet clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wish I could find the kinematic viscosity of all three of these with an ambient temperature of 10F. That would be about 100F cooler than the 40C and it would tell me ALL the rest that I need to know. Anyone who lives in colder climates knows that cold and initial startup can be a killer on non-lubed parts since it takes a little bit longer for lube. 10w oil takes longer than 5w oil no matter what the temp. is and that would be one of the draws to the amsoil (0w), for me anyways. Seeing that otherwise the rotella and amsoil are about equal (at least they have the #'s to support the viscosity required) at varying operating temperatures. I wonder if mobile 1 has an oil for bikes/quads/wet clutches in the 0W.
 

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I believe its the ZDDP levels are what you want to look into when considering winter climate...the zddp in a sense "sticks" to the internals when the lack of lubrication is there.

I believe the higher zddp level, the better cold start protection you are gonna get....but dont quote me on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Manny, here is a great article if you are interested.

All About Motor Oil

Under "Making motorcylce oils" read the third and fourth paragraph. I knew this already but the info was on my old crappy desktop (good luck getting it to boot up in less than 5 minutes, ha!). So I found it in this article too.

Anyway, so the rotella 5w-40 T6 obviously uses a LOT more VII's(should be 8 times as much) and it is used in the engine/tranny which is really hard on oil. I bet these quads break them VII's down in no time. That 5w-40 rotella probably turns into 5w-30 in just a few hundred miles? and then of course the kinematic rating at operating temp will be less than 14.2 sooner too. Probably won't happen so quick in cars but these quads will make it happen. But, the main thought is what happens with the 0w-40 Amsoil? That should have even more VII's. Thoughts?

Here is a link to mobile 1 racing 4t and 20w-50 v-twin. the 20w-50 actually has a lower overall Viscosity Index (which is good) then the racing 4t. Plus it pour point is better than some of the thinner mobile 1 grades. I know, too thick for the rincon probably. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx
 

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Award: You provided some great information. Thanks. I have my ATV (Rincon) in the mountains of Colorado and use it a great deal for plowing in the winter. I can honestly say that I can not tell the difference between the way my engine turns over (with Mobil1 4T) when it is below 0-F, vs when it is warm. Mobil1 does not make a 0w 4T oil. However, the 10 weight remains extremely fluid even when it is very cold. That (the cold) is definately an area where one will see a huge difference between petroleum oil and synthetic oil (both in vehicles and in motorsports engines). I have my preferences in synthetic oil, but, in all honesty, recommend synthetic in general; leaving the brand choice to the person purchasing it. One brand of synthetic that I'm not very familiar with is Valvoline. I've seen posts where some people are purchasing it at WalMart. Personally, I avoid WalMart at all costs (or savings), but that doesn't mean Valvoline syn is substandard. It probably is a very good synthetic. Your research in the syn's is impressive. Good work! And, thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Manny I think you are right about the zddp. I think if the oil film breaks down then the zddp will try and prevent metal wear.
This is off of a different forum:

"OK gents, inasmuch as I DON'T want to start anything here, I think it is my duty to inform you of what I learned not too long ago.

I was a Rotella T6 5W-40 user for a while until I met up (online) with a fellow who seemed to know what he was talking about...first of all, Rotella T6 is NOT a full synthetic oil; apparently, they use a synthetic STOCK, remove the sulfur from some dino oil and get to label it as "synthetic" because of some legal loophole.
To get a 5W oil to reach a 40 rating, requires the use of viscosity additives and these additives (being standard as opposed to synthetic) shear in the transmission. The more additives, the faster the viscosity is reduced due to shear.
A TRUE 10W-40 synthetic will use synthetic as base-stock as well as synthetic viscosity additives which are more shear resistant.
The Rotella T6 also has diminished ZDDP levels (to meet the low-emission ratings) which puts your tappets and cam followers at risk.

I use Mobil Racing 4T (was called MX4T) 10W-40 in my TW200 and haven't needed to adjust the valves in almost 2 years. I just turned over 36,000 km and she still starts easily and purrs like a kitten. I will be using the Racing 4T exclusively in my DR.
When I ran T6 in the TW200, the shifting was notchy and loud, and the valve train made more noise than usual. Even at $20/gal, I won't use it in either bike anymore.

But that's not to say that YOU can't use it in your bike if it works for YOU! Go ahead...it's not my bike!"

Apparently the t6 has low zddp levels but I have yet to prove it. If anyone has info on it please post. Maybe we can sticky this thread? Mods?

Thanks Kentco.
 

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Different strokes for different folks....i have my '98 foreman 400 with damn neart 12k miles on it....its drank oil all the way from delvac 1300, rotella products, valvoline, castrol 4T. mobil 1 4T to lucas synthetic 10w-40.

can i tell the difference in shifting between the oils???? not at all.
do i notice a difference in engine sound between oils??? not even close.

The motor is happy with whatever weight/brand of oil i throw at it...i guess you could say it has a very high tolerance to "inferior" oils LOL.

on the other hand, with my '03 rincon i had for less then 6 months. it performed FAR better with rotella t6 then GN4. it didn't take near as long for the oil to get through the entire powerplant...i can honestly say, between the rincon and rubicon i own. those are the only two atv's i have EVER had that behaved differently with oils.....could it be the complexity of the engines.?!?!.sheesh, who knows. i just go with what works.

i could spend WEEKS reading about VIII oils and low zinc ratings and oil with too much ash content.....but i'd rather just ride.
 

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I run the mobil 1 racing 4t in my bikes. I liked it from day one, smoother shifts, keeps its viscosity longer, and I can hear my 300 run smoother with it. Dry starts in cold temps are nearly eliminated, however every once in a while (only when its below zero up to 20 or so)you can hear it dry start and take a couple seconds to smooth out. This winter I think I'm going to try switching to amsoil 0w-40, the 0w should help...

I just picked up a bottle of zddp booster from my local auto parts store that I'll be running in my prairie for its break in period... Just thought you guys should know its readily available if you think your oils are too low on zinc content to lube properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dan i had to replace my chains and tensioner in my rincon just recently. When that was done I switched from gn4 to 4t. Initial startup made the oil light go out instantly and the engine is smooth and quiet. After checking for leaks I took it out for a quick run and that oil made my tranny shift from first to second without any notice except for the rpm drop going into second. Second to third was noticable but was still way way better than when I used gn4. I'll never use gn4 again in this quad. So far I am more than happy with the turn out of this project and I will say I probably never would have bought the synthetic if it were not for the chain issue. So, auction in the a.m. and maybe i'll snag that yamaha or at least that lawn rake.

Oh, it's possible that i'll change over to amsoil late this fall as it is a 0w oil but more than likely i will run the current 4t up to late december just so i can get a feel for how this oil performs in the cold.
 
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