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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a honda TRX 300 with a metal gas tank and the rear end is broke. I can shift gears and when u give it some gas its just a grinding noise and wont move. Any help would be great
 

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My guess would be the ring and pinion gear.....And welcome to the forums
 

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Welcome to the forums. I agree with Submarine. Sounds like the ring and pinion gears are shot.
 

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Welcome to the family, sorry to hear you are having troubles. If you need help getting that baby back up and running you are in the right spot we have several EXPERTS on these machines. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the help I have a question would it be better to replace the whole final drive gear or just replace the ring and pinion
Also how ?
 

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Thanks for all the help I have a question would it be better to replace the whole final drive gear or just replace the ring and pinion
Also how ?
it would be cheaper to replace the ring and pinion. Maybe Helmut can post the instructions because I don't have anyway to post the manual pics.
 

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Thanks for all the help I have a question would it be better to replace the whole final drive gear or just replace the ring and pinion
Also how ?
It would be a lot easier to replace the whole final drive, but it would be a little cheaper just to replace the worn gears and bearings. There's a couple special tools that you'll need to get the pinion bearings and pinion shaft out with, though. They can be pretty expensive to buy, but if you're handy with a welder, you can make them yourself.

It would be a good ideal to get a repair manual before you begin if you decide to repair it yourself.
 

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Do you need the special tools to replace the whole final drive
No, the whole final drive just bolts in. You just have to remove the axle and bolt on the final drive and then replace the axle. You don't have to have any special tools to do that as long as you have wrenches to fit the big axle nuts on the axle.
 

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^^^^Agreed. You can use a pipe wrench on the axle nuts if your careful not to chew the nut up.
 

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There's a couple special tools that you'll need to get the pinion bearings and pinion shaft out with, though. They can be pretty expensive to buy, but if you're handy with a welder, you can make them yourself.
Helmut, what suggestions do you have for making the special tool to remove the lock nut for the pinion? I believe I will replace my entire final drive, but I may want to rebuild the old one I have. The pinion locknut is my only obsticale at this time
 

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There's a couple special tools that you'll need to get the pinion bearings and pinion shaft out with, though. They can be pretty expensive to buy, but if you're handy with a welder, you can make them yourself.
Helmut, what suggestions do you have for making the special tool to remove the lock nut for the pinion? I believe I will replace my entire final drive, but I may want to rebuild the old one I have. The pinion locknut is my only obsticale at this time
Just find a nut that will fit down into the inside of the locknut and weld it to the end of an impact socket. Make sure the nut isn't so thick that it won't fit over the end of the pinion shaft. If I remember right, I believe the out side of the nut needs to measure 1 7/8 inches across the flats.
 

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Here is a picture of a homemade differential locknut socket, just a big nut welded to an impact socket.

 

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a full rear end is worth about 500 to 600 and u can get a axle for about 100 and new hubs for about 50 a peace the old rear endmost of the time is not worth re-building the needle bearing that the pin is in if u crack that case shes no good anymore just remeber that and if u do re-build it put honda bearing in it im on my 3rd rear end i broke down and bought a full complete everything
 

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I've rebuilt a lot of those Fourtrax 300 rear diffs. If you ride them too long after the bearings go out, it can damage the end of the pinion shaft and the case where the needle bearing goes. You usually won't damage the diff if you catch the axle bearings when they first start going bad, but if you keep riding them with bad axle bearings, it will damage the ring and pinion gears and possible the diff case.
 

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90% of people i know and the grages the needle bearing is the worst thats where most people brake the case trying to get the needle bearing out
 

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Yeah, the needle bearing is the hardest to get out. Some people try to knock them out without taking that keeper ring out. To get the keeper ring out, use a small flat screwdriver or pick and stick through the small hole in the case where the bearing goes and turn the keeper ring until the ends are visible in the hole. Then, just grab one end of the keeper ring with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the ring out through that hole. Once you get the keeper ring out, put the case in an oven and slowly bring the temperature up to about 175 degrees F. Honda makes a special tool to remove the bearing, but I've never had to use it. I just take a punch and put it through the small hole in the case where the needle bearing is and angle the punch and knock the bearing out like that.

Before you put the case in the oven, make sure all the bearings and seals are removed and make sure the gear oil fill cap is removed.

If you have a Honda factory service manual for the Fourtrax 300, it will tell you that the needle bearing can't be removed and that you will have to have a new case, but that's wrong. I've replaced a lot of them.
 
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