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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new project to work on! A friend at work GAVE (yes, free) me a 2000 rancher 2wd. He was the second owner, the first owner gave it to him. The story is, it started smoking, and it was put up, first owner eventually wanted it out of his way. Well, My buddy wanted it out of his hair too, so now it's mine.

The lowdown:

Yes, it smokes, but it runs. The oil is grey and wreaks of gas. The front bumper was pushed back about an inch, in-turn pushing the plastic back, which was putting the fuel petcock in a bind and causing a leak. The battery is long dead. The battery cover is MIA, as are the rear mudguards (right and left), the pull-start cover, the right front fender support brace, and about 25 of the little black plastic rivets. The fuel gauge has dry rotted, and the petcock not only leaks, but the off position still lets fuel by. The tires are bald also, the ridden-on-pavement kind of bald. And, the choke is stuck. That sounds like a lot, but there mostly small stuff, most of which I have found already on Evil-Bay.

I plan on tearing into it this week or next, to see the condition of the cylinder and rebuild the carb. If I am lucky, a honing and ringing will be the fix for the smoking, I am hoping the cylinder walls aren't too egg-shaped. I am torn between buying a tank off e-bay, or just replacing the petcock and gauge with new ones.

I am thinking I can get it back to a good life for under $800, unless I find something worse that needs atttention. I will keep you posted on my progress.

This wheeler will be for my kids to ride, and me to bee-bop around deer camp with. I hunted off my 450R last year, that was a PITA, I am looking forward to having a ride that can go slow, and has racks.

If any of you have a good supplier for 350 rancher parts, please chime in.
 

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You LUCKY SOB we all need friends like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didnt do anything to the 350 yesterday, 'cept go out and spray liquid wrench on the exhaust bolts, so maybe they will come loose easy tomorro.
 

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I have a new project to work on! A friend at work GAVE (yes, free) me a 2000 rancher 2wd. He was the second owner, the first owner gave it to him. The story is, it started smoking, and it was put up, first owner eventually wanted it out of his way. Well, My buddy wanted it out of his hair too, so now it's mine.

The lowdown:

Yes, it smokes, but it runs. The oil is grey and wreaks of gas. The front bumper was pushed back about an inch, in-turn pushing the plastic back, which was putting the fuel petcock in a bind and causing a leak. The battery is long dead. The battery cover is MIA, as are the rear mudguards (right and left), the pull-start cover, the right front fender support brace, and about 25 of the little black plastic rivets. The fuel gauge has dry rotted, and the petcock not only leaks, but the off position still lets fuel by. The tires are bald also, the ridden-on-pavement kind of bald. And, the choke is stuck. That sounds like a lot, but there mostly small stuff, most of which I have found already on Evil-Bay.

I plan on tearing into it this week or next, to see the condition of the cylinder and rebuild the carb. If I am lucky, a honing and ringing will be the fix for the smoking, I am hoping the cylinder walls aren't too egg-shaped. I am torn between buying a tank off e-bay, or just replacing the petcock and gauge with new ones.

I am thinking I can get it back to a good life for under $800, unless I find something worse that needs atttention. I will keep you posted on my progress.

This wheeler will be for my kids to ride, and me to bee-bop around deer camp with. I hunted off my 450R last year, that was a PITA, I am looking forward to having a ride that can go slow, and has racks.

If any of you have a good supplier for 350 rancher parts, please chime in.
You can't beat that deal. A free 4-wheeler. That don't happen often.
 

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nope..it don't..butttttttttt..as we all know..and have learned..nothing..and i say this from learning it myself..lmfao..that nothing in life is ever really free !!!!..one way or another..it's gonna cost us something down the road !..lmfao...i know this for a fact..this '89 trx350d foreman i just restored < and still working on the rear diff now >..lmfao..was givin to me also..yes..i said free !!..butttttttt..as you all know..and have learned..as i tore into it..finding out all that needed fixing..replacing..it all started to add up...lol...sooo..keep in mind..we get it free now..but it's gonna cost us something later on down the road !..lol.
 

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nope..it don't..butttttttttt..as we all know..and have learned..nothing..and i say this from learning it myself..lmfao..that nothing in life is ever really free !!!!..one way or another..it's gonna cost us something down the road !..lmfao...i know this for a fact..this '89 trx350d foreman i just restored < and still working on the rear diff now >..lmfao..was givin to me also..yes..i said free !!..butttttttt..as you all know..and have learned..as i tore into it..finding out all that needed fixing..replacing..it all started to add up...lol...sooo..keep in mind..we get it free now..but it's gonna cost us something later on down the road !..lol.
I've never gotten any kind for free. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, the project was free....but I wont be bouncing down the trails without spending some $$$.

Today I took some pics of the hose routing, I usually do that on things like hoses, wires, small parts, ect, so I have a good reference in case I get lost getting it all back together.

The airbox had about 3/4 inch of oil in it, thats odd, but not unheard of from what a google search tells me.

I removed the carb, and cleaned the outside of it real good, and then started to disassemble it. The primer diaphragm is toast. The float bowl was full of crud also. I stopped there, until I get my hands on a rebuild kit, so reassembly will be fresh in my memory.
 

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Well, the project was free....but I wont be bouncing down the trails without spending some $$$.

Today I took some pics of the hose routing, I usually do that on things like hoses, wires, small parts, ect, so I have a good reference in case I get lost getting it all back together.

The airbox had about 3/4 inch of oil in it, thats odd, but not unheard of from what a google search tells me.

I removed the carb, and cleaned the outside of it real good, and then started to disassemble it. The primer diaphragm is toast. The float bowl was full of crud also. I stopped there, until I get my hands on a rebuild kit, so reassembly will be fresh in my memory.
you still got one heck of a deal !!!.,,the first thing you should do.. is spend some money on..and trust me...it will pay for itself...is get your hands on a repair/service manual..it has saved me alot of cash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I got the head/cylinder apart this morning, above the valves looked clean, the combustion chamber had considerable black crud in it. The cylinder walls have a few (I say) very minor scratches, no deep ones and no perceived major wear feeling with my fingers.

Then I got to gapping the rings. I pushed the rings into the bottom of the cylinder, using the piston, pushed them until the bottom of the piston was flush with the bottom of the cylinder (a little deeper than the picture in the manual, but the manual didn't specify how far to run the rings in, was this right?).

The top ring gap has a spec of 0.15-0.30 mm (per manual), with a service limit of .5mm. It measured .838, outside the service limit.

The second rings gap spec is 0.30-0.45 mm, service limit of 0.6. It measured a whopping 2.057 mm!!

I didnt bother with the oilier rings, as it was I had to take my feeler gauge pack apart and use 3-4 gauges, and do the math, to get these reading.

It's safe to say that a ring job is in order. My question for you is, would a honing and new rings be good enough? I really don't want to bore it, if it's not necessary. And if it is, how about this place I found on ebay:

Honda TRX350 350 Rancher Engine Motor Top Rebuild Kit : eBay Motors (item 220564324595 end time Apr-29-10 17:41:10 PDT)

Any thoughts or comments?
 

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I got the head/cylinder apart this morning, above the valves looked clean, the combustion chamber had considerable black crud in it. The cylinder walls have a few (I say) very minor scratches, no deep ones and no perceived major wear feeling with my fingers.

Then I got to gapping the rings. I pushed the rings into the bottom of the cylinder, using the piston, pushed them until the bottom of the piston was flush with the bottom of the cylinder (a little deeper than the picture in the manual, but the manual didn't specify how far to run the rings in, was this right?).

The top ring gap has a spec of 0.15-0.30 mm (per manual), with a service limit of .5mm. It measured .838, outside the service limit.

The second rings gap spec is 0.30-0.45 mm, service limit of 0.6. It measured a whopping 2.057 mm!!

I didnt bother with the oilier rings, as it was I had to take my feeler gauge pack apart and use 3-4 gauges, and do the math, to get these reading.

It's safe to say that a ring job is in order. My question for you is, would a honing and new rings be good enough? I really don't want to bore it, if it's not necessary. And if it is, how about this place I found on ebay:

Honda TRX350 350 Rancher Engine Motor Top Rebuild Kit : eBay Motors (item 220564324595 end time Apr-29-10 17:41:10 PDT)

Any thoughts or comments?
dumb question here...are you checking the cylinder walls with new rings..or old ones ?..if your using old ones..this doesn't mean your cylinder is bad..your rings could be shot also....only way to check the cylinder the right way..is with a mic..unless you have new rings..dont use old rings to see if your cylinder needs boring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't have the instrument to check the cylinder itself, I was planning on taking it to work and having a machinist mic it out for me, or taking it to a machine shop in town for measuring and honing. My gut tells me that the cylinder doesn't need boring, just honing.
 

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I don't have the instrument to check the cylinder itself, I was planning on taking it to work and having a machinist mic it out for me, or taking it to a machine shop in town for measuring and honing. My gut tells me that the cylinder doesn't need boring, just honing.
yeah..you could find this out real quick..if you either had it mic'd..or had new rings..either way would tell you what to do next.
 

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Oh, to answer, I was using the old rings.
lol...sorry bro..but the old rings won't give/show you a correct reading to tell you ..your sleave is bad..mic it..or purchase new rings..then slide the new rings down inside the cylinder..this will tell you if your cylinder needs boring..or honing. :)
 

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I agree with Shadetree. You need a telescoping gauge set to measure the cylinder. The cylinder could also be "out of round" or "tapered".
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I drove to a local machine shop this afternoon, and had their machinist look at it. That's all he did. Said re-ringing would just have its smoking again at some point sooner than boring. I was a little surprised they didn't have a mic that could get down into the cylinder.

So, how about the link I put into the earlier post? Is that a decent deal?
 

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I drove to a local machine shop this afternoon, and had their machinist look at it. That's all he did. Said re-ringing would just have its smoking again at some point sooner than boring. I was a little surprised they didn't have a mic that could get down into the cylinder.

So, how about the link I put into the earlier post? Is that a decent deal?
Any machine shop should have telescoping gauge sets. You put them down into the cylinder and the open them up against the cylinder walls. Then you remove them from the cylinder and measure them with mics. That's how you measure the cylinder bore.

That kit in the link is actually a pretty good price compared to dealer prices. The parts will cost you more than that, besides the cylinder bore that they do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I took the cylinder to work with me last night and had one of our machinist look at it. Turns out he used to run the machine shop where I went to the other day. He checked out my cyl., and found .003 inch wear and he honed it for me. Oddly enough, the cylinder measures out at 78.48mm (I need a scratching head smiley here) and the piston is at 78.10, which is also slightly undersized. I dont get it, but that what I have to work with.
 
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