[one1]

Hey guys,

I'm having a heck of a time with my recon and I could use some help. I've done everything I can think of as an experienced ATV owner who builds dirt bikes and atv's from a frame and rides them for years afterwards. I've been around the block a little, but I'm not an expert.

2003 Honda Recon TRX250TE electric start/shift

I have spark - many tests, perfectly sure

I have fuel - direct starter fluid injection is of no help

I have voltage at the start - Pulse coil is producing 344 ohms and "some" voltage (I do not have a peak tester, and this is my only current downfall to what I am doing.)

I have voltage in the middle - Stator is producing voltage and will light the lights up on pull start with battery disconnected. I have 0.9 ohms between the two yellows and 180 ohms on the black/red to ground. Looking at the schematic this seems right as that wire grounds internally.

I have voltage at the end - Black/white ignition wire produces 12+ volts when engine is rotated using any method.

I have cleaned every-single-connector and verified it's connection 3 times. I have verified every switch operation internally.

I have ground to every green wire on the ATV at all the places it should be such as the VR, etc...

I have set the valves TWICE, just to be sure.

I have compression.

Things I cannot test CDI, ECU. I have verified the connections at each, but I do not know of any other way to test them other than what should be coming IN to them, and it is all as the FSM says it should be. My only question right now is if I have spark, is it at the right time.

It-will-not-start........................ Any idea's PLEASE.

LASTLY, anyone in Chattanooga, TN or around within 50 miles wanna swap cdi's with me and see if that's it, I'll drive.

 

[one1]

I don't remember the exact number though I know it was above the magic 150 to start and run. Fsm calls for 180 as perfect.

You can rule out the woodruff key as well.

My vulcan needed the pickups shaved and put to .013 to start, but these work fine in the stock location so i guess that isn't the issue.

 

[one1]

Here's a few more things to cross off as well. Annoying considering how clean this thing is inside and out.

 

[one1]

Ok, its the wrist pin. So the jug has a pretty good vertical gash in it. Piston and jug is $300 on ebay. What are my options on the jug? The piston isn't really that bad on price. The jug isn't cheap. I need both.

 

[one1]

I only had good compression in one direction. On the downstroke the piston would flip from the wrist pin issue. It's toast

 

[one1]

Scratches arent that bad, but the chunk is deep.

 

[one1]

I'm going to talk to them and order a new piston rings and jug from somebody. right now I have a seller in Florida with a summit racing honed jug and new everything for 300 bucks.

I need to ride this weekend and I'm wondering if I bought some replacement rings and a wrist pin if that jug would get me by for the weekend without tearing the rings up if I sanded it fairly smooth just on the bore wall, not to make the issues go away. I just want the rings to slide. I know it would smoke and probably use a little bit of oil but that's kind of the least of my problems right now it'll be two weeks before I can get the jug and piston.

This weekend is big and if I don't do that I'll have to take one of my bikes instead and it's a better mountain for quads than bikes.

 

[one1]

Well here's the cause of the failure.

Oil pump chain is bracelet like loose. Popped off, starved the engine till it puked.

 

[one1]

Since there are no recalls or TSB's unless I believe it's time for a class-action so that everybody can get theirs repaired