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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I'm having a heck of a time with my recon and I could use some help. I've done everything I can think of as an experienced ATV owner who builds dirt bikes and atv's from a frame and rides them for years afterwards. I've been around the block a little, but I'm not an expert.

2003 Honda Recon TRX250TE electric start/shift

I have spark - many tests, perfectly sure

I have fuel - direct starter fluid injection is of no help

I have voltage at the start - Pulse coil is producing 344 ohms and "some" voltage (I do not have a peak tester, and this is my only current downfall to what I am doing.)

I have voltage in the middle - Stator is producing voltage and will light the lights up on pull start with battery disconnected. I have 0.9 ohms between the two yellows and 180 ohms on the black/red to ground. Looking at the schematic this seems right as that wire grounds internally.

I have voltage at the end - Black/white ignition wire produces 12+ volts when engine is rotated using any method.

I have cleaned every-single-connector and verified it's connection 3 times. I have verified every switch operation internally.

I have ground to every green wire on the ATV at all the places it should be such as the VR, etc...

I have set the valves TWICE, just to be sure.

I have compression.

Things I cannot test CDI, ECU. I have verified the connections at each, but I do not know of any other way to test them other than what should be coming IN to them, and it is all as the FSM says it should be. My only question right now is if I have spark, is it at the right time.

It-will-not-start........................ Any idea's PLEASE. :)

LASTLY, anyone in Chattanooga, TN or around within 50 miles wanna swap cdi's with me and see if that's it, I'll drive. :)
 

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How much compression with the bike vigorously cranking and the throttle held wide open?

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I don't remember the exact number though I know it was above the magic 150 to start and run. Fsm calls for 180 as perfect.

You can rule out the woodruff key as well.



My vulcan needed the pickups shaved and put to .013 to start, but these work fine in the stock location so i guess that isn't the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here's a few more things to cross off as well. Annoying considering how clean this thing is inside and out.







 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, its the wrist pin. So the jug has a pretty good vertical gash in it. Piston and jug is $300 on ebay. What are my options on the jug? The piston isn't really that bad on price. The jug isn't cheap. I need both.
 

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Bore the cylinder you have? But if you had good compression the bike should still run, I am unsure of the Rincon motor but could you have jumped time?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I only had good compression in one direction. On the downstroke the piston would flip from the wrist pin issue. It's toast
 

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That's pretty deep..Still I would talk to G&H about it.. They can re-sleeve if it need be..At least you will know what you have when you're done...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I'm going to talk to them and order a new piston rings and jug from somebody. right now I have a seller in Florida with a summit racing honed jug and new everything for 300 bucks.

I need to ride this weekend and I'm wondering if I bought some replacement rings and a wrist pin if that jug would get me by for the weekend without tearing the rings up if I sanded it fairly smooth just on the bore wall, not to make the issues go away. I just want the rings to slide. I know it would smoke and probably use a little bit of oil but that's kind of the least of my problems right now it'll be two weeks before I can get the jug and piston.

This weekend is big and if I don't do that I'll have to take one of my bikes instead and it's a better mountain for quads than bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well here's the cause of the failure.


Oil pump chain is bracelet like loose. Popped off, starved the engine till it puked.
 

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Ya, thats the way those are made. Its one of Honda's worse designs but they'll insist yer full of crap if you tell them about it. So you're stuck with fixing it. The crankshaft seems to be the last part to die on those so if you fix the pump and swap out the bad topend parts its probably gonna be fine. Check around... G&H sells cylinder and head kits as well as others... don't forget to flush out everything real good...
 

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G+H , for about $220 they will bore your jug , give you a new Shindy piston , rings and wrist pin with clips , and the gaskets that you will need to do the job , one stop shop , takes about 2 weeks from and to your door
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since there are no recalls or TSB's unless I believe it's time for a class-action so that everybody can get theirs repaired
 
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