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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone,

Still fighting with the rear axle bearing, but will work on that a little later. Decided to go ahead and replace my front wheel bearings on my 03 Honda Recon TRX-TM.

The brake drum came off like a charm ( not like the rear) and the new bearings were delivered yesterday. Anyone have a tip to remove the bearings from the drum without a bearing puller?

Thanks fo all your help. I ran over my laptop last weekend in my briefcase, so am w/o internet until I get back Monday.

Like to get these done this weekend
 

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To remove the wheel bearings, I always just use a big punch and drive the old bearings out. Go through the back side to drive the front bearing out and go through the front side to drive the back bearing out. An extension for a ratchet also works good, but it won't be any good when you get done. There's a spacer in between the bearings, don't forget to put it back when you put the new bearings in. I always just use a socket the same size as the outer race of the bearing to drive the new bearings in. Make sure you get them started in straight and keep them straight as you drive them in. DO NOT drive on the inner race or in between the two races, make sure to just drive on the outer race or you will damage the bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Helmet,

Always appriciate your input. The RT side is fine, but the L side is almost totally gone when I got it. Been babying it as was afraid I would damage the spindle, but it looks ok. Going to do them as a set as I go through it so I know what has been done.

Have a great weekend!

Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok Ya'll,

I was able to get the frt bearings in this weekend. The L side, the race was frozen on the drum, but after alot of patience, i was able to get it off and install the bearings.

I did find out that whoever had it before, didnt have the spacers, or inner and outer collars that go on before you put the drum back on, and after it is on, and slides in the seal, then the lock nut goes on.
I have ordered those parts.

Question. When I tighten the lock nut on end of shaft tight,, it keeps the drum from spinning the way it should. I readjusted the brake shoes, but can tell its to tight. Is that what the collars are for?
Right now, the nut is just on and the cotter key is holding it on, pretty shaky. Is there something I need to know about tightening the nut to tight to the drum?
Is this normal?
 

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Yeah, that's the purpose of the spacer and collars, to put the pressure on the inner race, so the bearings will turn free. The seals also seal around the collars and the collar keeps the nut from tightening down on the outer seal. Without the spacer and collars, when you tighten the nut down, it will put stress on the bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thats what I thought, so for now, I kinda have it a little loose. Enought from keeping it from falling off. I am not riding hard, mostly for a lap around my property when the suns going down. not putting any pressure or hard riding on it. Will take about a week for those to come in. Will take it easy until then. It was the only reason I could come up with. The flange on the collar keeps it from hitting the drum.
They had 2 large washers acting as a collar, but when I checked the book, I saw that was no kosher.

Thanks, I will get that resolved soon. It is 10 times better than what it was though.
 
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