Honda ATV Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone I'm very new to the forms. I've never created an account on any form. I have however read many of the discussion topics that have been posted on them and I usually find the solution to my problem. However my problem this time I have not fount the answer for maybe I haven't looked enough but weather thats the case or not Ive decided for once I'm going to ask for help. I've had the carb apart many many times cleaned it soaked it in this gunk parts cleaner {which I learned is basically diesel fuel}. I don't spot any noticeable damage to any of the jets and it only has 2 O rings that i am available of. one which is around the air/fuel mixture screw and one that is around the primer on the bottom of the bowl and I'm pretty sure in the manual it shows it only has two as well one around the mixture screw and one around the primer on the bottom of the bowl. The needle that is in the vacuum piston looks straight to my eye weather or not it is actually straight I'm not 100% positive about. It seems to be running rich but the air/mixture screw doesn't really seem to help it either it's like it's working but it's not working If that makes any sense. I had it set at 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 turns out like the service manual recommended. Its awful to crank it takes forever sometimes and other times its like a charm and the temperature has been around 60-70掳F if that helps. The idle on it is strange very strange to me sometimes it idles at a normal rpm {what rpm its ideling at I have no clue because I don't have the tool to read that nor do I have any clue how you would read the idle on an atv.} Sometimes it idles very high and adjusting the idle screw/ spring on the right side when it's idle high just makes it dies when it decides to come back down. And whenever its at about 1/2 throttle or maybe even 3/8 throttle it bogs it doesn't die but it acts like it the entire time and it doesn't matter what gear it is in either it still does it but wot it does just fine no miss or anything and the throttle has no play in it all. Also the gas tank petcock has minor rust spots in it but it doesn't have much at all I don't think that would effect it but it might. It is getting plenty of fuel on reserve because on doesn't work I've already cleaned out the petcock vaule and it was pretty stoped up but even after that on still didn't work but reserve seems to be putting out plenty of fuel to it. I've also been running 97 in it ever since I got it two weeks ago and thats the first time i cleaned the carb it was definitely a little dirty had lots of junk in it but it didn't have a high idle then but the more i drove it the worse it had seem to have gotten. The boot also had a little crack in it and I thought that could be the issue of the high idle but I really couldn't see through the boot. Also everything I take off the carb it has puddles of gas in the boot which I'm assuming is not normal and i cut the gas off at night and I know that off works. Yesterday when i got home i took it for a fullsend and she ran really good until i was coming up a hill and it just started bogging down and died it was a little hot not like glowing hot but definitely a little warm so I let it cool off and i finally got it crunk back after time and time again of kicking it.{ It doesn't have a start but one is supposed to be here this week sometime according to ups but they said that last week as well.} Anyways i got it started and made it another Maybe 2 mins before it died a again going up the hill and I couldn't get it crunk back up so I pulled it home and took the carb off and it had a huge puddle of gas in the boot again. Anyways I took all the jets out again and I put everything but all the plastics and o rings it in that gunk "parts cleaner". So today i was going to make a gaset for the intake manifold boot that attaches to the head and then mounts to the carb in the process of putting the gasket on with the boot i broke the boot so i guess that crack was worse than I thought so I'm going to get a new one but i still don't think that crack is why there is so much gas in the boot everytime I take the carb off. unless that is normal which to my knowledge {which isn't much} isn't normal. If anyone could help me it would be greatly appreciated 馃槉 {also I've drained the oil twice and it has had gas in it both times and the spark plug is pitch black dark
15906334467047858328045584462003.jpg
}

I know this was a lot to read but I'm trying to be as informable as possible because I've seen on a lot of posts people doesn't give neatly enough detail.
I'm sorry for all the awful grammar and many spelling errors in this as I'm not extremely illiterate.馃槀
 

Super Moderator
Joined
38,142 Posts
check the choke, enrichment valve, make sure its working/seating. might be a good idea to over haul the carb with a shindy carb rebuild kit. fuel in oil tells me the float needle is sticking open.
 
  • Like
Reactions: T-MAN

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
check the choke, enrichment valve, make sure its working/seating. might be a good idea to over haul the carb with a shindy carb rebuild kit. fuel in oil tells me the float needle is sticking open.
Thank you for your reply. I will inspect the float needle and I've been looking at carb rebuild kits but I don't want to buy a crap quality one. Which brand one would you recommend if any at all?
The choke seems to moves freelys however I've never seen one like it before. The black tube moves up and down but the needle inside of the black tube does not if that makes any sense.
 

Super Moderator
Joined
38,142 Posts
Thank you for your reply. I will inspect the float needle and I've been looking at carb rebuild kits but I don't want to buy a crap quality one. Which brand one would you recommend if any at all?
The choke seems to moves freelys however I've never seen one like it before. The black tube moves up and down but the needle inside of the black tube does not if that makes any sense.
sound like the choke cable is broken, prob cuz the enrichment valve is seized in the carb, shindy makes the best carb rebuild kit.
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
sound like the choke cable is broken, prob cuz the enrichment valve is seized in the carb, shindy makes the best carb rebuild kit.
Thank you for your reply sorry I haven't replied sooner. The new carb boot came in last week and I put it on the other day and it ran so smooth and good however it still is ruining rich though even with the adjust screw all the way in. When I reassemble the carb the other day after it soaked for a very long time in some goop. I checked the needle valve seal and it was good because I hooked the carb up with the bowl off and held the float up and no gas came out until i let off the float.I've looked on eBay at rebuild kits and fount a shindy carb rebuild I'm going to purchase. Still I am not completely understanding why it is running so rich though. Is something internally in the carb gone bad that is non replaceable? And the choke moves freely when i choke it it revs up and when i push it off choke it idles back down. Again thanks your reply and sorry I haven't replied sooner.
 

Premium Member
Joined
12,522 Posts
there is a code on the side the carb , it is some numbers and letters on the side of the carb ( ex : something like V91-??? ) , post them up and we can see if you have a correct OEM carb for your year , the carb could have been changed to a china junk carb , or another oem but the wrong year and the jets are not right for your year ----

the choke / enrichment plungers come in two different lengths , maybe the wrong combo of cable and plunger

maybe the timing chain has slack and it is running out of time

do a compression test for starters , check the timing chain and timing marks , you might be riding a dead horse
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
there is a code on the side the carb , it is some numbers and letters on the side of the carb ( ex : something like V91-??? ) , post them up and we can see if you have a correct OEM carb for your year , the carb could have been changed to a china junk carb , or another oem but the wrong year and the jets are not right for your year ----

the choke / enrichment plungers come in two different lengths , maybe the wrong combo of cable and plunger

maybe the timing chain has slack and it is running out of time

do a compression test for starters , check the timing chain and timing marks , you might be riding a dead horse
I Will check the timing to make sure it is correct. And how would i know that the choke cable is the correct length? Here is the carb Numbers-
VE
91CAJI and the last one I can not quite make out.
 

Attachments

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I Will check the timing to make sure it is correct. And how would i know that the choke cable is the correct length? Here is the carb Numbers-
VE
91CAJI and the last one I can not quite make out.
And yes I know the outside of the carb still looks nasty but I guarantee the inside is good looking
 

Premium Member
Joined
3,986 Posts
You reading the service manual?
Looks like correct carb.
i would buy a Shindy rebuild kit and and OEM enrichment valve; there should be a bowl seal, the carb drain seal, and pilot screw has two seals鈥攐ne for screw and teenytiny for tip.
Initial pilot setting to two turns out.
Throttle Cable synchronization is very important.
Review my trx300 carb rebuild thread
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
You reading the service manual?
Looks like correct carb.
i would buy a Shindy rebuild kit and and OEM enrichment valve; there should be a bowl seal, the carb drain seal, and pilot screw has two seals鈥攐ne for screw and teenytiny for tip.
Initial pilot setting to two turns out.
Throttle Cable synchronization is very important.
Review my trx300 carb rebuild thread
Yes I have been reading the service manual the digital copy which I'm assuming is exactly the same as the paper copy. Yes that sounds correct to me I replaced both o rings on the adjustment screw already. Not with oem ones but with some I had out of an o ring kit that looked to be the same size when I layed them on top of each other. And the o ring on the carb drain screw as well. I'm going to read your article on the carb rebuild and buy a carb rebuild kit and a choke cable. Thanks for your reply and the link to the article as well 馃槂
 

Premium Member
Joined
3,986 Posts
Anything rubber will be damaged by carb cleaner.

I use Berryman Chemtool and a few sets of nitrile gloves. I am very very careful with my carbs鈥攊 use only clean carb cleaner on each carb and only the smallest amount to get the job done.

When I rebuild a carb i use dental brushes, pipe cleaners, bamboo handled cotton swabs鈥攁nything soft. I break off the bamboo handles and use them as scrapers.

The Shindy kits for most TRX300A and FW carbs are the same except for the jets, so consult your service manual for jet numbers and make sure you鈥檙e using same. You may also need a starter jet passage plug; these are typically available from Honda as part of the carb gasket kit. Unfortunately the Shindy kit doesn鈥檛 have this plug.
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Anything rubber will be damaged by carb cleaner.

I use Berryman Chemtool and a few sets of nitrile gloves. I am very very careful with my carbs鈥攊 use only clean carb cleaner on each carb and only the smallest amount to get the job done.

When I rebuild a carb i use dental brushes, pipe cleaners, bamboo handled cotton swabs鈥攁nything soft. I break off the bamboo handles and use them as scrapers.

The Shindy kits for most TRX300A and FW carbs are the same except for the jets, so consult your service manual for jet numbers and make sure you鈥檙e using same. You may also need a starter jet passage plug; these are typically available from Honda as part of the carb gasket kit. Unfortunately the Shindy kit doesn鈥檛 have this plug.
Thank you for the helpful information I'll remember that whenever I purchase a rebuilt kit. However I have been looking at snorkeling this as well I'm sure that i should create another thread over this but I'm just going to ask anyways. Could I still buy just a regular rebuild kit and snorkel it or should I go ahead and buy a rebuild kit that has jets that are bigger? The reason I ask is because I've heard you have to jet it bigger because of the snorkel. I do not know if that is true or not.
 

Registered
Joined
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Anything rubber will be damaged by carb cleaner.

I use Berryman Chemtool and a few sets of nitrile gloves. I am very very careful with my carbs鈥攊 use only clean carb cleaner on each carb and only the smallest amount to get the job done.

When I rebuild a carb i use dental brushes, pipe cleaners, bamboo handled cotton swabs鈥攁nything soft. I break off the bamboo handles and use them as scrapers.

The Shindy kits for most TRX300A and FW carbs are the same except for the jets, so consult your service manual for jet numbers and make sure you鈥檙e using same. You may also need a starter jet passage plug; these are typically available from Honda as part of the carb gasket kit. Unfortunately the Shindy kit doesn鈥檛 have this plug.
Thanks for all the helpful information yall have provided for me ol red Ruby is running like a charm now. Carb rebuild kit which I bought from my local worthless honda place was the key to my problems. Best 27 dollars I have spent on this thing yet.
 

Premium Member
Joined
3,986 Posts
Glad to hear! BTW I don鈥檛 know anything about snorkeling but several members have done it. probably hardest to do is waterproofing the oily and sparky bits.
Yup just start a new thread soliciting guidance for your model/year.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top