[Killsomething007]

2013 TRX500 Rear Final Gearcase, slush draining

Just picked up a 2013 TRX500 4x4 SE. Decided to change all fluids, clean filters, plug, etc. . . just to get a base point. All was fine until replacing rear. I removed the oil check bolt, and nusink. I then removed the drain bolt, and nusink. I then added some fluid just to see if I could see some flow, and eventually, some thick sludge finally started to exit the check bolt hole. I then ran out of time. My plan is to check the vent line, flush with diesel, and then re-fill for effect.

I'm not a master mechanic, nor a novice, and I do have the service manual. Just wanting to know if someone is nice enough to tell me if I'm on the right track here or not. Thanks.

 

[Jeepwm69]

Yep. That should get the sludge out. Just don't leave it in there long or it will affect your seals.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[_Wilson_]

And for checking that vent line, i take mine off at the pumpkin nipple (easier then getting to the upper end) and use compressed air, to check it, i doubt a pluged vent line is an issue, but..... No harm in beng sure! I would how ever be curious as to how that sludge got in.....

 

[Killsomething007]

Copy. Question. I've been Googling, and that's how I found the diesel thing, but I have another question. Can I drive it briefly with the diesel to clean it out, or should I just rock back and forth?

 

[Killsomething007]

And for checking that vent line, i take mine off at the pumpkin nipple (easier then getting to the upper end) and use compressed air, to check it, i doubt a pluged vent line is an issue, but..... No harm in beng sure! I would how ever be curious as to how that sludge got in.....

Yea, I just figured I would give it a full flush and change, and then see where she goes from there. Should be able to isolate then. The dealer sprayed her pretty clean. Will have to run for leaks.

 

[_Wilson_]

When you flush it with thin diesel, she might show you JUST where that pesky leek is , and I wouldn't drive it when doing that flush, I'd OP to get all four wheel off the ground and do the flush tha way, just seems a better way to do it, just a bit more work getting her up. But i tend to go full tilt when it comes to honda atvs.....lol

 

[alloutdoors]

I concur with Jay above, get the wheels off the ground and get it resolved in the garage. I would finger tighten the fill cap and drain bolt, start the engine and run it for a min or so and just repeat the oil change process a few times.....

 

[Killsomething007]

When you flush it with thin diesel, she might show you JUST where that pesky leek is , and I wouldn't drive it when doing that flush, I'd OP to get all four wheel off the ground and do the flush tha way, just seems a better way to do it, just a bit more work getting her up. But i tend to go full tilt when it comes to honda atvs.....lol

You were right. It did show me where that pesky little leak was. Added some diesel, put on jacks, ran in 1st gear, and BAM!, started dripping out of the left seal. So the seal problem was obvious. What I didn't understand is why nothing is draining out of the drain hole? Zero fluid, including the diesel I added. Could this simply be clogged, or am I looking at something wrong with that side of the axle also?

 

[alloutdoors]

When you flush it with thin diesel, she might show you JUST where that pesky leek is , and I wouldn't drive it when doing that flush, I'd OP to get all four wheel off the ground and do the flush tha way, just seems a better way to do it, just a bit more work getting her up. But i tend to go full tilt when it comes to honda atvs.....lol

You were right. It did show me where that pesky little leak was. Added some diesel, put on jacks, ran in 1st gear, and BAM!, started dripping out of the left seal. So the seal problem was obvious. What I didn't understand is why nothing is draining out of the drain hole? Zero fluid, including the diesel I added. Could this simply be clogged, or am I looking at something wrong with that side of the axle also?

Unless the drain hole is different than a Rancher, you should be taking a 10mm bolt out directly from the bottom and likely through a small peep hold in the skid guard. On the side, there is another 10mm bolt you remove as well, so when you add fluid after installing the bottom plug it will weep out there to signify "full". Assuming you are taking the right bolt out, I would get under there and look with a flashlight and see what is going on...

 

[alloutdoors]

Added some diesel, put on jacks, ran in 1st gear, and BAM!, started dripping out of the left seal. So the seal problem was obvious. What I didn't understand is why nothing is draining out of the drain hole? Zero fluid, including the diesel I added. Could this simply be clogged, or am I looking at something wrong with that side of the axle also?

At this point, I would suggest pulling the axle and replace all seals, both sides, because whatever is going on with the last, especially "slush or sand or etc" can be damaging the other side as well. Also, this will give you an opportunity to clean everything completely, install all new seals and fluids and enjoy that unit for many years to come.

I know taking it apart will be a pain, but the replacement cost a new rear end will far exceed some seals, so I would give it consideration....

 

[Killsomething007]

This is the drain bolt I'm referencing, right hand side.

 

[Killsomething007]

Added some diesel, put on jacks, ran in 1st gear, and BAM!, started dripping out of the left seal. So the seal problem was obvious. What I didn't understand is why nothing is draining out of the drain hole? Zero fluid, including the diesel I added. Could this simply be clogged, or am I looking at something wrong with that side of the axle also?

At this point, I would suggest pulling the axle and replace all seals, both sides, because whatever is going on with the last, especially "slush or sand or etc" can be damaging the other side as well. Also, this will give you an opportunity to clean everything completely, install all new seals and fluids and enjoy that unit for many years to come.

I know taking it apart will be a pain, but the replacement cost a new rear end will far exceed some seals, so I would give it consideration....

I agree on the complete seal replacement, and that's what I would normally do anyway if I had something completely apart. Problem is, I really need this for the next month or two for snow. It's a 10 minute snow clear, so I'm hoping I can live with the drip and the no-fluid on right side issue until then. Low speed, 1st gear, 10 min max. I've read that greasing it is a sore point with some, but would you recommend this for my situation, until I can re-build? Or should I just keep adding fluid?

 

[alloutdoors]

I agree on the complete seal replacement, and that's what I would normally do anyway if I had something completely apart. Problem is, I really need this for the next month or two for snow. It's a 10 minute snow clear, so I'm hoping I can live with the drip and the no-fluid on right side issue until then. Low speed, 1st gear, 10 min max. I've read that greasing it is a sore point with some, but would you recommend this for my situation, until I can re-build? Or should I just keep adding fluid?

My gut tells me, the rear end has headed up under use in cold weather and condensation has formed to cause "slush" unless it was damaged in some mud/sand, etc., but who knows...

Regardless, using in cold weather and under slow conditions you describe, I don't see all the fluid running out as long as you keep an eye on it given the viscosity at these temps, so I see no problem waiting a few weeks to get through winter.

 

[Wsg]

Yes I would run mine with fresh fluid this will also help you decide if you change the seals at all, some people never maintain there bikes so I wouldn't jump to the cause rather continue to monitor the problem. Unless it is running straight thru just run it till the warm weather go run some water and then change the fluid to see how much gets in.


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[farmer002]

I would put it up on stands. Run it with diesel, drain and blow it out, and let it drip/air dry over night. Refill with the proper oil and run it until you can tear it apart.

 

[Jeepwm69]

If nothing came out when you put diesel in, you have something blocking the drain hole.

Poke up in there with a paper clip or something and see if you can get flow.

Or turn the rear wheels by hand (rear end on jack) with the drain hole open and see if that pushes stuff out.

You can get the diff flushed out, fill with fluid, and run it until snow season is over. Just check the fluid ever couple of runs.

 

[Killsomething007]

If nothing came out when you put diesel in, you have something blocking the drain hole.

Poke up in there with a paper clip or something and see if you can get flow.

Or turn the rear wheels by hand (rear end on jack) with the drain hole open and see if that pushes stuff out.

You can get the diff flushed out, fill with fluid, and run it until snow season is over. Just check the fluid ever couple of runs.

Will try that today. No idea why that didn't already occur to me. Thanks.

 

[Wsg]

If nothing came out when you put diesel in, you have something blocking the drain hole.



Poke up in there with a paper clip or something and see if you can get flow.



Or turn the rear wheels by hand (rear end on jack) with the drain hole open and see if that pushes stuff out.



You can get the diff flushed out, fill with fluid, and run it until snow season is over. Just check the fluid ever couple of runs.

Will try that today. No idea why that didn't already occur to me. Thanks.

I kinda remember once taking the lowest bolt thinking it was the drain but the drain is tucked away, if it's not draining, double check you pulled the right bolt. I am assuming you are working in a garage and that ice is not the issue, if working outside like I do my wife's hairdryer is always a great way to heat things


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[fishfiles]

I would say it is beyond flushing at this point , time to take it down and reseal and maybe re-bearing it , although , if the bearings are still good , which would be a judgement call as you can see them , you could flush it then pump it full of marine grease and ride it till it dies , then fix it right later on

 

[fishfiles]

My fleet of atv diffs and transfer cases are about 50/50 gear oil or grease in the diffs and transfer cases , the grease works , I drill and tap a hole for a grease zerk into the fill cap and give it a recharge of grease every couple of trips ---- to start off on a fresh rebuild I run Lucas Hub Oil which is very clinging , once it gets some water in it , I will flush it then , I will pump it full of marine grease , when it is eventually rebuilt I start with the Hub Oil again ,if you go the grease route be sure to remove the vent line when filling it full of grease