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Ok recently I was trying to check my rear diff oil and the bolt to check it broke off and is stuck on the rear diff and is slowly leaking. I put silicon over it temporarily. What should I do
 

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welcome to the forums. you have to choices, one, drill it out where it sits, then re-tap the threads ( metric ), or..pull the rear differential, take it apart, then drill and tap it, this way, you don't get shavings in your differential :).
 

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Try getting it warm with a torch or heat gun then tapping it around with a small chisel or drift. Failing that you'll have to do pretty much what shadetree has said above.
Personally I wouldn't be overly concerned about alloy shavings, most of them would flush out afterwards and what's left shouldn't do any harm. Personal opinion though.
 

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Try getting it warm with a torch or heat gun then tapping it around with a small chisel or drift. Failing that you'll have to do pretty much what shadetree has said above.
Personally I wouldn't be overly concerned about alloy shavings, most of them would flush out afterwards and what's left shouldn't do any harm. Personal opinion though.
the housing is aluminum alloy, but the bolt is steel :).
 

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Try getting it warm with a torch or heat gun then tapping it around with a small chisel or drift. Failing that you'll have to do pretty much what shadetree has said above.
Personally I wouldn't be overly concerned about alloy shavings, most of them would flush out afterwards and what's left shouldn't do any harm. Personal opinion though.
the housing is aluminum alloy, but the bolt is steel :).
Drain or fill?

Drain is steel, fill is magnesium alloy, is on mine and all spare axles.
 

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Try getting it warm with a torch or heat gun then tapping it around with a small chisel or drift. Failing that you'll have to do pretty much what shadetree has said above.
Personally I wouldn't be overly concerned about alloy shavings, most of them would flush out afterwards and what's left shouldn't do any harm. Personal opinion though.
the housing is aluminum alloy, but the bolt is steel :).
Drain or fill?

Drain is steel, fill is magnesium alloy, is on mine and all spare axles.
drain bro :).
 

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Ok cool.
Think I'd be tempted to drill and flush out if it was me in that situation, at least all the swarf is in the bottom of the casing, not over the internals.
 

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Ok cool.
Think I'd be tempted to drill and flush out if it was me in that situation, at least all the swarf is in the bottom of the casing, not over the internals.
thing is ?, you can't drain all the shavings out ?..why ?, because the drain hole is higher than where the shaving will fall down into ?, which is below the drain hole ?, once they get down there ?, you can't drain them out the drain hole ?, you have to split the cases, and clean them out that way. this is why I said to do the pull/split/clean option...lol.
 

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in other words ?..the ring gear will pick them up when it starts to wash around in the gear oil !..lol.
 

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Yeh your right, I suppose a magnet would do some of the job. As I say though on mine I'd probably just risk the swarf, The damage would be minimal and very unlikely to be noticeable.
 

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Yeh your right, I suppose a magnet would do some of the job. As I say though on mine I'd probably just risk the swarf, The damage would be minimal and very unlikely to be noticeable.
you would not be saying this if you knew what that shaving does to the gear oil seals ?!..lol.
 

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Drain it, clean it with brake clean or lacquer thinner and compressed air to get the oil out of the cracks, cover it with JB Weld epoxy.

Find the capacity of the oil and measure your fresh oil when filling.

Run with it like that!!
 

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Yeh your right, I suppose a magnet would do some of the job. As I say though on mine I'd probably just risk the swarf, The damage would be minimal and very unlikely to be noticeable.
you would not be saying this if you knew what that shaving does to the gear oil seals ?!..lol.
If it's being done properly, using small drills and working up 1mm at a time a majority of the swarf should come out down the flutes on the drill. The minority would be shavings/filings. I'm not saying the odd bit won't get in there though.
I may only be 30 but I've done this many times on many items and vehicles and never had an issue.
Do it, flush it, run it, flush it again, run it and flush until you feel safe.

As I say, this is something I'd risk on my own ATV, not somebody else's, if somebody follows my guidance that is their choice entirely.

Each to their own devices though :biggrin:
 

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Yeh your right, I suppose a magnet would do some of the job. As I say though on mine I'd probably just risk the swarf, The damage would be minimal and very unlikely to be noticeable.
you would not be saying this if you knew what that shaving does to the gear oil seals ?!..lol.
If it's being done properly, using small drills and working up 1mm at a time a majority of the swarf should come out down the flutes on the drill. The minority would be shavings/filings. I'm not saying the odd bit won't get in there though.
I may only be 30 but I've done this many times on many items and vehicles and never had an issue.
Do it, flush it, run it, flush it again, run it and flush until you feel safe.

As I say, this is something I'd risk on my own ATV, not somebody else's, if somebody follows my guidance that is their choice entirely.

Each to their own devices though :biggrin:
can't say I blame ya ! :). I am just to careful for making my toys last !..lol. when I toss cash at them from where I rebuild/restore them ?, I try to make that atv last as long as I can ?, and not have to put more money back into it..lol.
 

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To have a piece of mind, remove the differential and correctly address it, because otherwise you will likely worry about getting shaving out and/or risk a more significant issue, i.e., ruin the differential itself, a costly fix.
 

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I guess the best advice would be to take into account what everybody has said and do what you feel would be best option for you and your ATV.

Admittedly, stripping would be your safest option, I change my fluids once a month or once every two outings so I'm confident in what I have said. Plus it's my ATV so if it breaks it's my fault lol.
 
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I would try drilling it out with a reverse drill bit. Most of the time once the bit bites into the bolt, it will catch and spin the bolt out.

If you don't get lucky and spin the rest of the bolt out, pull the diff and make sure you get it cleaned out well.

That's how I would approach it. Just make sure you get the bit exactly centered on the bolt, and more than likely the drill bit will break it lose and unscrew it.
 

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I would try drilling it out with a reverse drill bit. Most of the time once the bit bites into the bolt, it will catch and spin the bolt out.

If you don't get lucky and spin the rest of the bolt out, pull the diff and make sure you get it cleaned out well.

That's how I would approach it. Just make sure you get the bit exactly centered on the bolt, and more than likely the drill bit will break it lose and unscrew it.
I need to look into buying me a set of left hand drill bits ?, I run across broken bolts in a lot of my projects when I get them, take them on ?, and I've always just drilled them out, starting with a small bit, and working up to the hole size, then tap them back out. I wonder if these left hand drill bits would speed the process up ?, I will give it a try the next time I am at lowes ?, and see if they sell them ?. can they be bought at places like lowes ?, or is it a spec place that only sells them ?.
 
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