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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
aight, the rear brakes dont work, dont care to fix them. i
want to do away with the hole assemble.

pretty much with the assemble off it leaves the axle going into the tube across the rear end but there is a gap so it has some play and im pretty sure that will mess up the bearing on the gear side of it. also i dont know if the gear side is sealed so if water got into the tube it might be able to get into the rear diff. someone correct me on that if you could.

pretty much the brake assemble holds the axle in place. i have thought about cutting that to the size of the tube and still retaining the stock bolts to the axle but then im going to run into a sealing issue on the other side of that.

it would be cool if somebody made a bearing to fit that gap and just do away with the whole assemble.

what do you guys think??
 

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You will have to leave the aluminum brake backing plate, because it has an axle bearing and seal in it. You can remove the brake shoes and the brake drum, but I would leave the cover because it has a seal in it and it will help keep mud and water from getting to the seal in the aluminum backing plate.

ADDED: You may even have to leave the brake drum. I can't remember if a seal fits over the end of the hub on it or not. If the brake drum don't help seal anything, then you can remove it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i dont think the drum helped seal anything from the looks of it.


man, i wanna get rid of it. cleaner look, less things to get hung on, so on. but taking the drum out does help with rotational mass cut down so that is a plus.


humm
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the bearing in the brake was locked up. broke it free, put grease on it now??? what kind?? let me guess vasoline wont work, haha.
 

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the bearing in the brake was locked up. broke it free, put grease on it now??? what kind?? let me guess vasoline wont work, haha.
Any kind of bearing grease will work, but the marine would probably be better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
aight thanks man.



here it is for other people wondering



here is the look i would like to get but i dont think its doable with alot of fabrication.

 

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I would say you will have to, at least, put the aluminum brake backing plate back on, because it holds the axle bearings. You might also have to put the brake cover back on, so the axle nuts will have something to tighten up against.

If you're going to have to do a lot of fab work, then you would be better off getting a Fourtrax 350 rear end and putting it under it. They hold up a lot better than the 300 rear end, because they have the axle tubes that go the full length of the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah i thought about cutting the brake backing plate to the size of the axle tube, well to the size of the studs so it can still bolt on but then how would i seal it???? could i just pack it with grease and seal it that way???
 

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Didn't that backing plate have a seal in it? It should have the axle bearing and then it should have a seal on the outside of the axle bearing.

It should have an 0-ring where the backing plate bolts to the axle tube, so I don't really see why cutting the backing plate wouldn't work, but your axle nuts wouldn't have anything to tighten up against on the brake side. I don't know if the axle would try to pull out the left side or not, but I don't think it can. I guess you would just have to try that and see if it would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
there is an O ring where it connects to the axle tube, i was just thinking it would seep past the bearing on the other side.

ill have a pic up in a min, im a little confussed as to what your saying.
 

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there is an O ring where it connects to the axle tube, i was just thinking it would seep past the bearing on the other side.

ill have a pic up in a min, im a little confussed as to what your saying.
There should be a seal on the outside of that bearing that you're talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·


there is an O ring on the other side at the axle tube, but will water leak in this way thru the bearing??? if not then i dont even need the back part, if so, then i cant cut it because the bolts for the black part are on the outer edges of it, if i cut it, i cut them off.
 

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I remember now. There's a seal in front of that bearing, but the brake drum slides back into the seal to seal it off. Without the brake drum, it won't seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
okay i think i got it now.

the backing place holds the axle in place, the drum will slide up next to that and seal.

i could cut most of the back plate off, all the outside edges. pretty much cut it along the line of the studs so it will still bolt up like stock, and hold the axle in place. then cut out the outer portion of the brake drum, use the inner portion and slide it on to create the seal, then use the nuts to tighten it all down. then the axle is held into place, its all sealed, and i dont have this big chunk on the axle.

am i off base or am i on the right path???
 

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okay i think i got it now.

the backing place holds the axle in place, the drum will slide up next to that and seal.

i could cut most of the back plate off, all the outside edges. pretty much cut it along the line of the studs so it will still bolt up like stock, and hold the axle in place. then cut out the outer portion of the brake drum, use the inner portion and slide it on to create the seal, then use the nuts to tighten it all down. then the axle is held into place, its all sealed, and i dont have this big chunk on the axle.

am i off base or am i on the right path???
That will work if you can get the axle nuts to tighten up against the piece that you cut off the drum. The piece of the drum will have to reach out to the threads, but I think it will. If it don't, you may have to cut a short piece of pipe that will fit over the axle, so the axle nuts will tighten up against it and hold pressure on the piece of drum so it will all tighten down tight. That should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
it reaches out to the axle nuts, only thing i want to remove off of the drum is the outer part of the circle, pretty much i just want the center of the circle and do away with the rest of the drum.

someone said its a 2 peice design and the center should just pop out, if thats the case that would be great but i dont think it is.

also what is your thoughts on packing the diff and axle tube with grease??
 

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it reaches out to the axle nuts, only thing i want to remove off of the drum is the outer part of the circle, pretty much i just want the center of the circle and do away with the rest of the drum.

someone said its a 2 peice design and the center should just pop out, if thats the case that would be great but i dont think it is.

also what is your thoughts on packing the diff and axle tube with grease??
If it reaches out to the axle nuts, then it should work fine.

As far as packing the diff with grease, I've never tried that. I've read about it on other forums and they say it's ok if you are a mudder and don't usually ride fast. I've read that if you ride fast, not to do it. So, I really don't know. I don't really see any need to put grease in the axle tube, though, because the diff has a seal anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
dont ride fast, no go hear then :D


if i ride on the ride i try and atleast do the speed limit, heck even on the trails i try and ride toped out if i can. ill stick to 80-90
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
is the rancher 350 rear end a solid tube???? and do you know if its wider than the stock 300 rear end??

i heard it has a longer final gear.
 

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Here is a link to all the Honda gear ratios.

Gear ratios for every 4x4 Honda ATV ever built

Yeah, the 350 Rancher has a solid tube axle. I just went out to my garage and measured the axle on a 350 Rancher and it was 42 1/2 inches from the outside edge of one tire to the outside edge of the other tire. It has 10 inch wide tires on it.
 
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