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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been tearing into my stash of rear ends I've picked up for these 300's.

I have 3 350D rear ends, a BR250 rear end that already has a brake delete done, and two 250A rear ends.

Since I'm not a fan of spacers, I'm seriously contemplating getting 350D axle tubes and axle, and using those with the 250A rear ends.

Is anyone actually using rear brakes with a 350D swap? Seems like I saw there wasn't a cable that was the right length.

For those who are doing without brakes in the rear, is there any reason there has to be a drum in there? One of the 250A rears has a backing plate that has a seized cam, no brake pads, and no drum.

The drum cover was in place but no innards. I'm contemplating just boring a hole in the bottom of the drum cover and running it as is.

I've also considered cutting down the backing plate and just doing a delete. Any reason the drum center has to be there, or can I just have backing plate and hub?

Looks like if one is running the brake delete the bearing housing/ backing plate would be very exposed, but then again if water gets in the brake housing you have the same problem and it's worse because the water is sitting in the drum instead of just running off when you get out of the water.

So, what all are y'all doing with these rear end swaps?
 

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Jeep , I have never used a 350 brake drum yet , the 350 brakes looks much bigger to me , especially on the 1st ones ----------------------and the drum cover holds the seal , there is no seal inside the drum at the bearings that I know of ----on my deleted brake there is no seal to protect the bearings but the axle tubes and diff is full of grease -----
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah the 350 drums are huge for sure.

I figure either have working brakes back there (if possible) or leave the innards out and make sure that if water gets in the drum it can get back out again so the bearing isn't sitting in a drum full of water.

I know rear brakes on Hondas suck, just weighing my options on these things while I have them apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm guessing there is no issue with running with just the backing plate and cover though, right? No need for a drum to be in there.....

I've picked up a couple of bikes with no rear brake drum. Dang things cost $$$ on ebay, and if the rear brakes don't work anyway, why not just run without it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My buddy's 350D rear that I put in for him was missing the drum cover. Backing plate was there with shoes and drum, but no cover.

He ordered a drum cover but then said "Why not just leave it like it is since the rear brakes don't work anyway" Kind of hard to argue with that.
 

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Before I did my rear brake delete and swing arm stretch I used 350d rear cables, both reached easily.
 

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I don't know , here is a pic of the delete on my Blue 300 that the previous owner done , which I would guess it was really done by Dick's , the bearings inside the backing plate are held in place by the plate as they are installed from the inboard side , so that is no problem ---------- would the hub need something on the back side to contact ? as you can see the hub hits the collar ( ball looking piece ) which was part of the drum , I have wore out a few hubs in my time from the splines getting loose and wallowed out , maybe with some contact on the back side the hub they would wear faster ? I really don't like having no seal to the bearings , that is way I am pumping grease to the back side the 2 bearings , and hope some is getting thru into the bearings
 

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Is there no aftermarket seal available that fits between the backplate and drum Fish? Mine doesn’t have anything there either, I just assumed the seal was missing though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there no aftermarket seal available that fits between the backplate and drum Fish? Mine doesn’t have anything there either, I just assumed the seal was missing though.
Well I'm putting new bearings in that have seals but we know those don't do a great job of sealing out water.

I hate to cut up backing plates and drums, but this 250A backing plate I have is trashed anyway so it wouldn't be any big loss.

The 350D rear brake is tucked up in the wheel well enough to make a brake delete kind of unnecessary isn't it? I know the 250BR and 250A are tucked in a bit so they'd drag like a stock 300 brake, but with the 350 it's tucked up in the wheel so why go through the trouble?
 

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It’s only tucked up if you run the foreman 350 wheels, 300 Fourtrax are a greater offset and then the ITP deltas thatbi have are a greater offset again, I still have the drum on the axle I have fitted at the moment, it sticks out about 3” or more from the inner wheel edge.
 

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My dream is to fab a disc conversion on a 250 rear end , the only reason why the SuperAtv disc kit will not work is the axle spline is smaller on the 250 and 350 axles , so the hub to hold the rotor would have to be custom made

Around here most people who delete the brakes do it to run either a axle paddle or hub paddles , if you don't want brakes , just don't put shoes , I see now they make hub paddles that go over the brake drum so you don't have to delete with them
 

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I'm doing a rear diff swap this week on my new 300.

I will try and get you a picture of how I set up the back brakes with stock 300 cables.
From what I remember the 300 cable drops through the mounting hole in the backplate, suppose you could turn a couple of top hat type washers/reducers to fit. Or bolt a plate to the existing mount with new holes to hold the outer cable.
 

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My dream is to fab a disc conversion on a 250 rear end , the only reason why the SuperAtv disc kit will not work is the axle spline is smaller on the 250 and 350 axles , so the hub to hold the rotor would have to be custom made

Around here most people who delete the brakes do it to run either a axle paddle or hub paddles , if you don't want brakes , just don't put shoes , I see now they make hub paddles that go over the brake drum so you don't have to delete with them
I suppose the disc could be mounted to the steel drum insert on a 350/250 rear couldn’t it. (Imean that piece that is ball shaped on your blue 300.)
It would want a plate welding to it and the disc modding so the disc could be removed incase it ever got damaged.

Would be a good mod for sure
 

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My dream is to fab a disc conversion on a 250 rear end , the only reason why the SuperAtv disc kit will not work is the axle spline is smaller on the 250 and 350 axles , so the hub to hold the rotor would have to be custom made

Around here most people who delete the brakes do it to run either a axle paddle or hub paddles , if you don't want brakes , just don't put shoes , I see now they make hub paddles that go over the brake drum so you don't have to delete with them
I suppose the disc could be mounted to the steel drum insert on a 350/250 rear couldn’t it. (Imean that piece that is ball shaped on your blue 300.)
It would want a plate welding to it and the disc modding so the disc could be removed incase it ever got damaged.

Would be a good mod for sure

Guess that would be the way to go about it , use the inner hub of a brake drum and weld a hub to hold the disc onto it , placement and offset would be critical , I guess if you missed it by a bit you could shim the caliper -----I might have to buy a kit from Super ATV and see where it goes -------
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The big issue I've seen with the SuperATV rear kit is it doesn't seem to work well at all unless you covert it to hydraulic. I haven't seen anyone who's put one on that was happy with it unless they did a bunch of custom work to convert it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Here you go, the photo is at an angle but as you see it’s quite a lot.
Yeah I'm running 12" Foreman wheels on all of my stuff, so would probably be a similar offset to what you have pictured.

I looked at the Foreman 350 wheels and noticed the drum was nicely tucked up in there. Guess I didn't think about what it would look like with different wheels on there.
 

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The big issue I've seen with the SuperATV rear kit is it doesn't seem to work well at all unless you covert it to hydraulic. I haven't seen anyone who's put one on that was happy with it unless they did a bunch of custom work to convert it.
I suppose the easy way would be to make the Arm that the cable hooks up to a bit longer. Could do it calliper end and foot pedal end too.
 
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