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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A buddy has an 06 Rubicon and let the left rear axle nut work loose. It came off on the trail, and he put it back on and got about 1/2 way home and it came off again. We finally got to a clearing with it wobbling and came and picked it up with a trailer.

He robbed another nut off of one of my rigs and it tightened up good with an impact so I figured it was fine, but he said he came off again the other day, so I'm guessing the axle threads were worn down from when it was wobbling.

A nut will still thread on and pull tight (not strip), so I told him to either weld it on after putting in a new left rear bearing and seal. I know the right fix is a new rear axle but this is a beater so he just wants to rig it.

I wonder if, given that the nut will still tighten up with an impact, if blue Loctite might hold it?

What does the hive think?
 

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I think your loctite idea is what I would try first, do these models have cotter pins, I assume so? I’d be tempted to squash the castle part of the nut slightly in the vice before fitting with the thread lock in an attempt for that little extra bite on the threads.

Edit: You could always put a tack (weld) on the end of the nut too.
 
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Yeah I've seen them tack welded.

If a good nut would spin on the axle I'd tell him to replace the axle, but the idea that it will tighten up and not spin tells me there is a lot of meat left on the axle threads.

He ordered a new axle nut, bearing and seal (so we won't be removing the nut again anytime soon). I'll try Loctite and pinch the castle a bit like you suggested, and put a good heavy cotter pin in there.
 

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Yeah I understand your thinking. I’d do the same, saves the dollars for a few more weeks doesn’t it. Another thought, slide the hub off and loctite that to the axle also, could be the splines worn that are causing the nut to work loose.
 

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Hi Jeep: I have done this for a couple of young fellows --- use a washer mark the nut size on the washer and with a file -- file the shape to fit the nut -- drill a 1/4 hole in washer see red spot -- then tighten the nut on the axle -- mark the hole on the hub -- remove nut drill mark on hub -- tap for 1/4 / 20 -- put all back in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Jeep: I have done this for a couple of young fellows --- use a washer mark the nut size on the washer and with a file -- file the shape to fit the nut -- drill a 1/4 hole in washer see red spot -- then tighten the nut on the axle -- mark the hole on the hub -- remove nut drill mark on hub -- tap for 1/4 / 20 -- put all back in place.
Pic isn't working. Sounds interesting though.

The hub is fairly new. He had a leaky seal on that side due to grooves worn in the hub, so I made him replace the hub when I put a new seal in there.
 

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something similar on 250 rear ends , I have had problems with the splines of the axle and hub getting worn and the slack in the splines lets the hub wobble , I have nursed it along for a year by cleaning the splines up and applying JBWeld to the splines , it last a few months ----I know you said he replaced the hub , maybe it is the axle splines that are worn out
 

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Hmmm another pic not up loading.......? Is there so e updating going on ? In the forums ?

Edit:
What does the hive think?
or the swarm ? :icon_ poke:
Yep this has been happening since yesterday for me. Using Google Chrome and the new layout; pictures are not showing up. @VS_Goose
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
He lives about 40 mile from me. If I had to guess, the threads on the axle are gone and the nut will tighten up, but then wiggles back and forth and eventually the nut wears enough to jump over what threads are left on the axle, so I don't think it's coming unscrewed, I think it's working itself off, destroying the cotter pin in the process.

I told him to run a new axle nut on there with some Loctite yesterday. He said it tightened up ok, but then he try to give it another uga with his impact and said it started spinning, so yeah, axle threads are gone. (I swear this guy can break an anvil)

He might be able to weld it on, but turns out it's on the brake side, not the left, so if he tries to weld the nut onto the axle he's gonna have a hard time not melting the drum seal on the brake.

I'm going to suggest he just bite the bullet and buy an axle.
 

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He lives about 40 mile from me. If I had to guess, the threads on the axle are gone and the nut will tighten up, but then wiggles back and forth and eventually the nut wears enough to jump over what threads are left on the axle, so I don't think it's coming unscrewed, I think it's working itself off, destroying the cotter pin in the process.

I told him to run a new axle nut on there with some Loctite yesterday. He said it tightened up ok, but then he try to give it another uga with his impact and said it started spinning, so yeah, axle threads are gone. (I swear this guy can break an anvil)

He might be able to weld it on, but turns out it's on the brake side, not the left, so if he tries to weld the nut onto the axle he's gonna have a hard time not melting the drum seal on the brake.

I'm going to suggest he just bite the bullet and buy an axle.
If he ends up welding it my advice would be to cut the castellations off the nut to allow for more weld to a better bit of material. Could even grind a ‘V’ into the end of the axle and run a weld around first to get the heat into the hardened axle shaft, then proceed to weld the nut on. The hotter the axle is before the main weld to the nut the better.
 

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I didn't mention this in my other post , but someone brought up about how the nut can be loose and the cotter key still be in > that's is what happens , when the splines get worn and the hub starts wallowing out , then it going farther onto the shaft and the hub is loose and the nut still right where it is cotter'ed off
 
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