[kalebp44]

Hello, I've searched everywhere for more help on this issue.

I have a 2015 trx420fa5. I am having trouble getting it to start. A week ago, me and some buddies were riding at the river, I was in water that didn't even come up to the muffler hole. I pulled out to the sand bar where it shut off and never crunk again. I notice a few days before this ride, my bike was harder than normal to crank. It would fire up and die down unless I gave it gas for a second or two and then it would be fine. About 4 months ago, I had a professional install a gear reduction and a clutch kit and adjust my valves. Upon picking my four wheeler up he informed me that my valves were off a little and he got them adjusted and I should notice it crank easier. This was the case until recently. On other forums I've read people saying that the valves could be the culprit, on other forums, the compression. This might be the case for other peoples problems but there scenario just was exactly the same as mine. I don't see how the valves could be off again after such a short period since they were adjusted. Another repair guy told me that he could do a compression test be he thinks it'll be a waste of time since it has never had the piston removed and it doesn't have a pile of hours on it . This guy thinks it something electrical. I can get it to start with starter fluid but it only runs for a second. I would say it starts long enough to burn through the starter fluid. It's got less than 100 hours and about 500 miles on it.

I have checked the following:
1) Sparkplug is firing (I bought a new one even though nothing was wrong with the old one.)
2) Fuel (again nothing was wrong with what was in it, but I purchased some 101 octane fuel.)
3) Fuel pump is fine as I took the fuel hose off to watch it shoot my $13/gallon gas onto the ground.
4) Injector (Again, I've watched it spraying)
5) Intake valve is opening and closing.
6) All the fuses in the fuse box are fine, including the diode.

All comments are very appreciated!

 

[SamUK]

I'd be tempted to check the timing. If the timing is spot on I'd then check the compression.

 

[mrbb]

OK< first off , welcome to the site!
Next, water can get into a motor in other ways than in from your exhaust pipe
can be sucked in thru your crank vent/'s, and your intake(air filter)

SO< just cause you didn;t get water up past pipe , doesn;t mean you couldn;t have sucked water into this motor?
Just saying, NOT trying to being a smart aZZ eher!

a compression test is SIMPLE and easy, shouldn't take but a few minutes at MOST and will let you know your motor is correct in compression!
if water or?? gets into a motor it can RUIN it in a few minutes NOT need hours or miles to do so, ALL depends on what gets in or how much?

NEXT< when you say GAS is FINE< did you DRAIN old fuel out, and replace with NEW fuel??
101 octane fuel is NOT good for motors without HIGH compression, so, ?? not sure why you felt adding that would do any good here??
IF you didn;t DRAIN the old fuel to rule out BAD fuel, or water maybe IN fuel, or??
adding NEW fuel to it, doesn't do anything, but make MORE contaminated fuel?


NOW to touch on something maybe your missing, have you cleaned and dielectric greased all your electrical connections?
as water in connections can cause all sorts of issue's, from NOT firing to poor running to???

if you plan to play in water, you NEED to do this any ways, so, NOW is a good time to check things and rule this possible issue out!

as for valves coming out of adjustment, they can move? but shouldn;t move in a shirt period of time if adjusted correctly
BUT I have learned a LONG time ago, that JUST cause someone SAYS they did it right, doesn';t mean its done right!
PRO tool turner or backyard one!
many a shops have been found to charge for work they didn;t either do at all or did poorly!
they can be checked rather easy too, SO< just saying, don;t rule things out just cause ONE claims its done right!, as its NOT always true!
if its running on starting fluid, it says its a fuel related issue to ME, so back to DID you drain the old fuel out, or just add new to tank??

 

[jameslb]

OK<
BUT I have learned a LONG time ago, that JUST cause someone SAYS they did it right, doesn';t mean its done right! Many a shops have been found to charge for work they didn;t either do at all or did poorly!
, SO< just saying, don;t rule things out just cause ONE claims its done right!, as its NOT always true!

No Kidding, Gag :eek on 13$ a gallon gas.

 

[jameslb]

OK<
BUT I have learned a LONG time ago, that JUST cause someone SAYS they did it right, doesn';t mean its done right! Many a shops have been found to charge for work they didn;t either do at all or did poorly!
, SO< just saying, don;t rule things out just cause ONE claims its done right!, as its NOT always true!

No Kidding, Gag :eek on 13$ a gallon gas.

 

[Carolynskiii]

420's are extremely sensitive to the amount of fuel pressure delivered to the throttle body. If you have spark the only reason left for it not to start is fuel. (Assuming you turned the bike off instead of it dyeing)

Spray starting fluid, carb or brake cleaner in the throttle body and see if it starts for a second. If if does then your fuel pump is out of order. Dissemble the pump and clean the filter with carb cleaner and air hose or buy a new fuel filter.
It it still will only start by spraying the throttle body after cleaning the filter then order an oem only fuel pump.
It's likely muddy water at some point got into your fuel canister.